body bolts?
- Thread starter jjsticks
- Start date
EX JUNK
Moderator
I used some rubber conveyor belting that was about 1/4" thick. I cut off a piece that was as wide and as long as my frame rail. I then used 4 bolts per side to secure the body to the frame. I must also add that there are steel plates of about 3" square under each counter sunk bolt on the top side to keep the bolts from tearing through the glass floor. I would suggest that the same be done with a wood floor also.
Jim
Jim
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
I used the same stuff as EX JUNK... literally. He gave me his left-overs. Intuitively, it seems like a good idea to have a little cushion between the frame and the body. I know of one T that has no cushion and the body squeaks over bumps. I assume it's the body rubbing on the frame.
Mine is bolted solid to the frame.
der Spieler
Member
I found these in the Bob Drake Reproductions catalog this morning:
Shok-Shims Body To Frame Cushioning
Shok-Liner
Shok-Shims Body To Frame Cushioning
Shok-Liner
Ted Brown
Member
I don't like to give the bolts any reason to loosen up, and cushin between the frame on body can do just that, the wood itself, if you do not use steel or thick Alum. backing plates, will compress and let a bolt get loose also... then things tend to slide around if not real tight... just me here.. been there and done that...
der Spieler
Member
And on the sixth day God created Nylock lock nuts. The bolts stayed tight and all was good.
Ted Brown
Member
Nylock nuts are always used, but they will not keep it tight when the wood compresses, it is now loose and able to move a bit, and a bit becomes a bit MORE, get my drift?? the bolt has not gotten longer,loose, but the piece has gotten thinner, that makes it now loose ... just me here, and I rest my case... PS, Just like it takes two weeks to get the header bolts to stay tight, why is that?? the gasket keeps compressing, until it can no more..
donsrods
Member
It's a good idea every so often to go back and retorque the body bolts (and every other bolt on the car). I just started noticing my T wandering a little, so I turned the wheel while at rest and found the Corvair box had loosened up on it's mount a little. I had used locktite and nylocks too, but it still came loose.
Don
I had used locktite and nylocks too, but it still came loose.Don
der Spieler
Member
I must have done it wrong. None of mine ever loosened up.
der Spieler
Member
Or you can weld a threaded insert into your frame and keep the bottom of the frame rail clean.
oldtman
New Member
I put a lot of 3/8 nuts in my chassis. I use a unibit cone type drill . If I can't find unplated nuts I sand off all the cad or zinc plating. I screw in a long bolt into the nut . stop drilling with the unibit when it is a good hammer in tight fit. the Unibit gives a chamfered hole for welding I use a square to get the nut lined up. weld it in then remove the bolt and chase the threads with a tap.
Ted Brown
Member
A small jar of swimming pool acid gets rid of the plating in about 5 seconds, I use a short length of welding rod for a hanger, then rinse with fresh water, ready to weld, I use flange nuts, helps keep the heat away from the threads, otherwise it will get as soft as the frame material.. just something to toss around...oldtman said:
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