Body mouning.

[tfeverfred]

I'm getting close to being ready to drop the body on my frame. Well, maybe in a week. :hooray: Anyway, I'm looking for alternatives to Total Performances "well nuts". The ones in the rear pulled out in my accident, so I'm leary of them now.

I thought about just running a 1/2" bolt through the body and frame and using 1/2" hard rubber pucks in between the body and frame. Any other thoughts or ideas?

 

[RPM]

Fred I use 6 tomb stone looking tabs and weld them to the inside of the frame. I use a rubber strip, like that between a pick up box and a camper shell, but ontop of the frame rail. The full length of the body. 6 3/8 grade bolts with big thick washers and nyloc nuts. I have never tested mine like you have. I hope I don't either.

 

[Todd]

get a piece of 7/8" or 1" DOM, cut it to the height of your frame, if you have access to a lathe - machine a shoulder on it the thickness of the frame and bevel the edges on both ends, drill the frame top the smaller of the two ends, drill the bottom the larger, tap the DOM to the proper thread for body bolts, insert the DOM from the bottom, fasten the top with a bolt and large washer, weld the bottom, remove bolt and weld top of frame, get a button head bolt with anti seize to seal the bottom opening (it will look like a rivet).
I'm sure one of the CAD guys could draw it, maybe RPM could make them and add it to his line of quality T parts? I get the first set free.

 

[donsrods]

I'm with you Fred, those well nuts are for the birds IMO. We simply weld short pieces of flat steel to the top of the frame, then drill and tap all the way through them and the frame. If you have 3/16 frame and 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch flat steel on top of that, it gives you plenty to tap good threads into.

Don

 

[oldtman]

tomb stone tabs, I buy pieces from the steel supplier in his iron fence parts bins ,,different sizes, 2 hole strap. round both ends cut them in half for about 50 cents each.. When I need threaded attachments I have been using 3/8 nuts black when I can find them or sand off the cad or zinc plating. I drill the holes in the frame with a taper cone Unibit. stop before the nut will go thru. I use a long bolt and washer and hammer the bolt to swedge in the nut. the unibit gives a chamfered hole. The washer is for if junior hammers too hard or drills the hole too big you don't drop it inside Use a small square to align the nut and weld it into place I grind the weld flush and retap the nut.

 

[dovehunter79]

I was told to set the body on the frame and weld 2" angle iron with 1/2" hole where the body meets the frame with 1/2" grade 8 bolts and washers.

 

[Leon renaud]

Chevygirlrocks on the HAMB had a tranny or rear lock up at about 70 and rolled a total T the body never separated from the frame in fact for rolling at that speed the car didn't look all that wrecked !though was that a seam in the pavement let the tall heavy shifter put the trans in park locking the rear up

 

[der Spieler]

I was told to set the body on the frame and weld 2" angle iron with 1/2" hole where the body meets the frame with 1/2" grade 8 bolts and washers.

That's pretty much how I mounted mine. I welded two inch wide pieces of 2 x 2 x 3/16 angle to the inside of the frame, drilled it, then mounted the body and drilled through the floor and bolted it all together. I had some poly Jeep body mount donuts that I put in between. I also gusseted the angle iron tabs for extra strength. Probably overkill but it didn't hurt anything and I had peace of mind.

 

[LumenAl]

Re: Body mounting.

I was told to set the body on the frame and weld 2" angle iron with 1/2" hole where the body meets the frame with 1/2" grade 8 bolts and washers.

I believe I said

IMHO, I'd weld some (2x2) angle iron at 6 points... 4 for the main floor and a couple in the bed area if the body and bed are all one unit... I used 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts and washers to secure... where the body meets the tabs you've welded on, I'd do some kind of rubber... :hmmm:

Ya forgot to mention the rubber... :lol:

 

[Todd]

:dummyude! Never forget the rubber.:hmmm:

 

[der Spieler]

Accidents cause people...............

 

[Ted Brown]

Yes they do.. hehe gotta use rubbers to keep that body from harmful fibrations... just check out how your stock car body is mounted and go for it, but 1/2 inch grade 8!! a bit over kill... Like using a 12 gage shotgun on Rens... when a 3/8" bolt will lift your whole car.. gotta love it....

 

[LumenAl]

...1/2 inch grade 8!! a bit over kill... Like using a 12 gage shotgun on Rens... when a 3/8" bolt will lift your whole car.. gotta love it....

Does this mean I have to go to the back of the class? :hmmm:

 

[dovehunter79]

Yes they do.. hehe gotta use rubbers to keep that body from harmful fibrations... just check out how your stock car body is mounted and go for it, but 1/2 inch grade 8!! a bit over kill... Like using a 12 gage shotgun on Rens... when a 3/8" bolt will lift your whole car.. gotta love it....

like I said, that is what I was told.

 

[fluidfloyd]

like I said, that is what I was told.

Dovehunter79,

Not sure where you buy bolts but my friend in Weatherford buys Gr 8 in fine thread from Tractor Supply by the pound. I checked and they are a domestic source and I am picky on the subject. Not all Tractor Supplies carry fine thread bolts but you can check around. Good source and good prices for stocking your bolt drawers.

George

 

[dovehunter79]

There is a small body shop in Glen Rose that I have been getting them from lately...