Brake lights

[dartdog]

Hello everyone,
This is my first time on this site,and I hope to meet some more T-bucket fanatics as my self.I am just finishing the wiring on my 23 T,and need some help with the brake lights? Is there a brake light switch that goes from the peddle to the brake lights,and if so where can I find one? Thanks, Dartdog

 

[donsrods]

Two ways to go. One is to use an inline pressure switch that is activated when brake line pressure builds up from stepping on the pedal, and the second is a mechanical switch that opens when the pedal moves away from it and allows the button to come out (or in some cases when the button is depressed by the pedal).

I have had two of the pressure type on my 23 in two years. Each one died in just about a year. Just this past weekend before leaving for Billetproof I tried the brakes and no lights came on. My Son tested the switch and it was bad...........same thing happened last year at Turkey Run and we replaced it at that time. I had heard silicone brake fluid (Dot 5) kills them and that must be right.

We installed a mechanical switch to replace the pressure switch and the brake lights are working fine now. I had a mechanical switch on my 27 for 7 years of daily use and it never went bad.

Welcome to the group also.

Don

 

[putz]

Most bucket use a pressure switch inline with a tee.

Pressure Brake Switch
I agree with Don the pressure switch can fail but is easier to install.

 

[EX JUNK]

I am a firm believer in a mechanical switch. Pressure switches leave a lot to be desired.

I personally would avoid the mechanical switch that Speedway offers. I have had three of them go bad on me. I much prefer the one that Ron Francis offers. I have them on both of my street rods and they work excellently. The one that I use is part number SW-42. It is a little pricey but you get what you pay for.

Jim

 

[RPM]

I like the brake light switch for a mid seventys gm with cruise. You can also use it to unlock the converter on a 700r4 trans or simalar unit.

 

[benT]

I used a GM mechanical one--not sure from what--went to NAPA and dug through the assortment. It is attached to my MC/pedal bracket and has some adjustment with a nut. Here is what it looks like:

 

[Lee_in_KC]

I personally would avoid the mechanical switch that Speedway offers. I have had three of them go bad on me.

I've had two of Speedway's mechanical switches go bad on me, as well. I took the last one apart to see what the dealio was, and found that the contacts were arching when making and breaking the connection and just melted away the contact area. The brake-light load is relatively high amperage and is pretty hard on light-duty contacts. I also switched to the Ron Francis switch, which is considerably more substantial-looking than the Speedway. I also went to LED brake lights, which are a much smaller load compared to regular incandescent bulbs.

 

[EX JUNK]

Here are a couple of pictures to show how I mounted the weather proof mechanical brake switch from Ron Francis.

The actuator is a piece of angle that is attached to the brake pedal arm and the switch is mounted to the floor of the car and is adjustable for how quickly you want it to come on.

Here is another shot from a different angle.

I hope that this helps.

Jim

P.S. I agree with your findings on the Speedway switch, Lee. They seem to be a very inferior off shore product. I not only have changed my switch but have done so for other rodders.

 

[gfigms]

I can tell you from experience (I work at an auto parts store) that the inline electric brake switches will fail if you use DOT 5 brake fuild and the switch is not rated for DOT 5. Seems the DOT 5 tends to eat up the insides of the switches. Have had to replace several of them for customers because of DOT 5. They have two choices, find a switch that will work with DOT 5 (looking at around $35 verus a $6 switch) or purge the entire system and go with DOT 3 or DOT 4.

 

[Mr T Bucket]

The brake-light load is relatively high amperage and is pretty hard on light-duty contacts. ----- I also went to LED brake lights, which are a much smaller load compared to regular incandescent bulbs.

A relay might have let that switch live long enough to get its learner permit, LOL. I agree, using an OEM switch (and relay) might be the best way to go.

By the way, T looks good Lee!

Chris

 

[Youngster]

i have been using the switch for a '57 chev pick up for a long time now. haven't had one failure yet.

Ron

 

[LKE]

i have been using the switch for a '57 chev pick up for a long time now. haven't had one failure yet.

Ron

In my experiences, the ones from speedway seems to last about a year, then stop working. I have a truck that has one from a mid fifties F-100, and it has been on since 1994. So i think there is probably a quality issue there. Cheap vs. quality repop. The dot 5 thing is interesting. As I use it in all my cars. I wonder if that is what is doing in the speedway switches ?