brake lines and fittings
- Thread starter Youngn
- Start date
crossingts
New Member
Total Performance make line kits for there frames.but you car could be different length and width.There kits work great and almost fall right into place with every fitting you need including the brake light switch.The only thing you need to do is double flare one end of each rear different line.mainly because of the use of different rear diffs and disc or drum rear brakes.
I have one of these setups right now for our current car if you would like measurements let me know,there site may say also
I have one of these setups right now for our current car if you would like measurements let me know,there site may say also
i ordered most of mine from speedway.i have gm calipers up front and drums in back.i ordered speedways stainless dot legal flex lines for the front calipers,a 25' roll of 3/16 hard line,counted and ordered enough 3/8 inverted flare fittings 10 i think,and the rest came from auto zone and oreileys.i used a 75 nova master and got the fittings to adapt it to 3/8 inverted flares at autozone,and also the rear rubber hose was a replacement part from auto zone for the camaro rear i used.had to go to oreileys for the adapters since autozone didn't have them.i used a cheap double flare tool i got from a discount tool outlet and bent the lines by hand.oh and i also ordered a T for the front and some 3/16 line clamps to mount the line to the frame from speedway.my brakes work good but i was considering a proportioning valve for the front lines.it had a tendancy to push the front around a little and had to push the pedal pretty hard to get the rear brakes to hold the wheels i set the idle down on the carb a bit and this seems to have solved that problem.
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
If you're trying to avoid doing flares (and I can understand why you would... what a PITA!), NAPA and probably other parts houses sell various lengths of hard line with fittings pre-installed. You may have to add some extra jogs in some lines to get them to fit, but most of the hard lines will be out of sight anyway.
i ordered a 25' roll and had some left over but i did have some waste trying to get the flares right.what worked best for me was to mount the flare tool in the bench vise so i could make sure the ends of the tubing was nice and square then i debured the ends realy well and took small strips of 150 grit sand paper to champher the edges and that seemed to work realy well.Youngn said:it sounds lke i should buy more then i need to practice first before i make a piece two short.
Make the longer lines first. That way if you screw one up, you can use it for a shorter line.
If your using SS lines a single flare will work. Use WD-40 when making your flares. Don't be afraid of doing flares, not hard to do. It's one of those things like sharpening drill bits, practice, practice, practice.
If you master cylinder is lower than your wheel cylinders, use a 2 psi residual valve for disc brakes and a 10spi for drums. This will keep the brake fluid from draining back into the master from the wheel cylinders.
Ron
If your using SS lines a single flare will work. Use WD-40 when making your flares. Don't be afraid of doing flares, not hard to do. It's one of those things like sharpening drill bits, practice, practice, practice.
If you master cylinder is lower than your wheel cylinders, use a 2 psi residual valve for disc brakes and a 10spi for drums. This will keep the brake fluid from draining back into the master from the wheel cylinders.
Ron
Youngster said:
One thing i found out with Totals frame and master cyl using the wilwood single piston i think they are 175s is that if you use a residual valve on the front they will NOT release and they will drag.I took mine out and have no problems now.The reason is there is no return spring in the calipers its design is for preasure release to retract the pucks enough to relieve preasure on them.(As told to me by Brian at TP)
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