Building a 383 stroker - Enter At Your Own Risk
- Thread starter Bucketman
- Start date
Yes lets not be bashing our founder! He has passed on. He never sugar coated anything, but definitely new his way around engines and racing. We were pretty close and chatted on the phone quite a bit.
For those that did not know him he worked for K-Motion the largest and best valve spring supplier there was at the time. He talked to all the race shops around. Everyone ran their springs. You couldn't help but learn from talking to likes of Force, or Bernstien, or any other big names in all the racing circles. If it had valve springs and was raced that shop was where you went. He worked side by side Bill Jenkins on a record holding car. I could go on and on, but you all get the idea.
2old2fast
Active Member
I don't know how to separate lines from a post so , to paraphrase , " you don't have the RIGHT to be obnoxious" .....excuuuuuse me ( in my best Steve Martin voice) I , as well as anyone else can be obnoxious as we like , you have the "right" to listen or not , to argue or not , to be here or not , no one that I know of is holding your family hostage to force you to respond , rights my butt , get over it ! Jeeeeeesh !
old round fart
Well-Known Member
There are some on this for forum when I see their avatar I just go through the next post.
We don't NEED obnoxios on here!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You have reached your limit on OBNOXIOUS
One thing needs to be said: we all need to respect each other. We have a broad range of skill levels represented on this site, but we all share a love for T-buckets. Regardless of what I may think of your build, I can be supportive of your efforts, and offer suggestions. It's not up to me to tell you everything that's wrong with your car, but to offer help when asked for. The easiest thing in the world is to be a critic; it takes respect to be encouraging and supportive. So let's enjoy our hobby and each other - life's too short to make enemies!
Neshkoro
Well-Known Member
You're right on, Spanky! I've never experienced you berating anyone's ride. You're a gentleman!
Edwin Hazzard
Member
I know this might be a stupid question but i bought this car and the person i bought it from bought it from someone else. What is the best way to find out what components are in the engine. I was told its a 383 stroker motor but i dont know what cam is in it, compression ratio or possible hp rating. Thanks
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
Edwin, It may get more attention if you started your own thread on your question. This thread is over 3 years old and may get overlooked. Sorry I don't have an easy answer for you. You could probably measure the lift. duration may be a bit tuff.
If you pull the oil pan and check the block, look for reliefs cut in the lower "skirt" of the block to allow for more crank throw clearance. This would indicate the work done to create a 383 from a 350 block. Also, you might find some identifying marks on the nose of the camshaft if you pull the front timing cover.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
It’s Indycars suggestion so I guess he’s paying for the rebuild!
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
It could also just have the out born corners of the rod caps ground to clear the block and pan rails. Look for external balanced balancer and fly wheel or after market crankshaft. As for the cam: measure it or maybe pull the timing cover and look for a part number. Compression will tell you a good deal too. Honestly, if it runs good, just enjoy it!
Edwin Hazzard
Member
fletcherson...how can you find out what the compression is other than pulling the heads?
Randy Steel
Active Member
Edwin are you wanting to know compression or compression ratio? Compression is simple...stick your finger over plug whole and turn it over...it should blow your finger off...lol. Of course, a compression test will give you the actual measured reading. To calculate the compression ratio (volume of cylinder at BDC vs. volume of cylinder at TDC) , you can take a measurement with a manometer (measure of pascals or 1 Newton per sq. meter) as well as obtaining a compression reading (in PSI). Once you have the values, you can interpolate by making educated guesses (9:1, 9.5:1, 10:1, 10.5:1, etc) and determine what you're close to. For example, if you have a manometer reading of about 15 and your compression ratio is supposed to be 10:1, then your measured compression test (in PSI) should be 150, or 15×10/1.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
Randy pretty much covered it. I was inferring that a typical compression test done by removing the spark plugs and installing a gauge to determine psi. Higher psi indicates higher compression. A healthy stroked engine should develop higher compression than a stock engine BUT there are other factors. It’s not a tell tale indicator and without going into detail on cam profiles, head combustion chamber size, etc, it’s not a simple explanation. Hope I didn’t confuse.
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