No sooner than I get the front back together, sandblast and paint front spring, new shackles and bushing, installed thermostat, installed new dipstick, plugged old dipstick hole, ceramickote headers, more on this, removed pan to clean out drill shaving and sludge out of pan, buff out overspray on radiator shell, painted oil filter and alternator. On coating the headers, I used Eastwood's kit. Everything went well, amount of coating goes far, but is very fragile even after the 24 hr drying time. By the way, got the crack welded up in the header tube and had to recoat due to the extreme heat. On the hand polishing of the headers, instruction say, buff to a shine. You will not get anything I would ever call a shine. It just smoothes the surface of the coating. I mounted the headers back on the engine for the heat curing. No problems with the curing, you just need to handle with clean hands and not let any metal make contact with the headers, the coating is very soft. A solution to this may have been to use the heat gun prior to taking off the hanging wire.
I have about 3/8th of an inch of polish in the jar to do both headers and turn downs. Polish is to be applied with a paper towel. I bought different shaped buffing pads to use in a power drill.
I put on the polish, wait until it starts to dry and used the buffer. It looks just OK. I hit the same spot again, better. I move to the adjacent area. A definite difference in color line and looks like a stain between the two polished areas. Another wiping of polish removes the stain, but I am about out of polish and I have 2 miles of tube to polish. With the minor chips, I will have to re coat and the ton of polishing it will take to make the surface look acceptable, I have to give the kit a no go for me. I guess I will call Tech Line or Eastwood and see if there is a substitute to the polish they send in the kit. The other side is still frosted looking, but is an improvement over peeling black paint and rust, but I was hoping for easier, better results.
I pulled the rear spring thinking it was too stiff, but determined it was bottoming out. I plan on taking it tomorrow and having the arc increased, to get the shackles at a better angle. I think this weekend will be a good day for cruising.
Oh yeah, I was running about 140*F before the thermostat. It looks like 180* now. I like.
I have about 3/8th of an inch of polish in the jar to do both headers and turn downs. Polish is to be applied with a paper towel. I bought different shaped buffing pads to use in a power drill.
I put on the polish, wait until it starts to dry and used the buffer. It looks just OK. I hit the same spot again, better. I move to the adjacent area. A definite difference in color line and looks like a stain between the two polished areas. Another wiping of polish removes the stain, but I am about out of polish and I have 2 miles of tube to polish. With the minor chips, I will have to re coat and the ton of polishing it will take to make the surface look acceptable, I have to give the kit a no go for me. I guess I will call Tech Line or Eastwood and see if there is a substitute to the polish they send in the kit. The other side is still frosted looking, but is an improvement over peeling black paint and rust, but I was hoping for easier, better results.
I pulled the rear spring thinking it was too stiff, but determined it was bottoming out. I plan on taking it tomorrow and having the arc increased, to get the shackles at a better angle. I think this weekend will be a good day for cruising.
Oh yeah, I was running about 140*F before the thermostat. It looks like 180* now. I like.
