Busy Day

[railroad]

Out of gas on my little Lincoln 100. Loaded up the bottle and headers to be sand blasted. Ended up buying a Millermatic 212, a big bottle for the new welder and a swap on the little bottle.
While trying to find a local sandblaster, who could do the headers while I waited, I found a tombstone dealer, who said he would blast them for $35. The guys got started, but were interupted by a rush tombstone. I had no idea monument dealers did sand blasting. The finish on the set he started is very clean and smooth. The grit was in a Dupont bag and labeled Stardust. Anyway, if you did not know, as I did not, might be worth checking out for blasting stuff. I get to try the Eastwood ceramic coating tomorrow.

 

[eafree]

Railroad, you sound like me you head off to get a bottle exchanged, and end up buying another addition to the shop. I did not know that monument guys had sandblasting capabilitites. Thanks for the info.

Eric

 

[GizmoJoe]

Good tip. Ya.. they do a lot of blasting.

Totally un-T related but more towards the "off in a different direction" idea...

I went to the staff room last week to get a cup of hot chocolate and wound up having a car offered to me for cheap. I drive a 1993 Camry (very nice car in really good shape). The guy offered me his 95 Camry for "parts". Shucks.. it only needs brakes, minor suspension work and a little body work. Now I don't know which one to keep!

You just never know what will come from where.

 

[Youngster]

When I chopped the top on my '56 F-100 I took the windsheild to a monument shop to have it cut down. I didn't want to risk puttin it under the cutter. Worked great. He also polished some scratches out for me.

Ron

 

[rooster57]

Most people are surprised at the monument process. A rubber mat is cut of the image like a stencel and attached to the stone then its blasted and when the mat is removed the sand bounces off the rubber and etches the stone.

 

[Northstar T]

Most people are surprised at the monument process. A rubber mat is cut of the image like a stencel and attached to the stone then its blasted and when the mat is removed the sand bounces off the rubber and etches the stone.

Most shops that make the vinyl "decals" can also make a similar type of item. it's called a mask. I had some made for another project where I built an aluminum dash face, and wanted some lettering on it. by applying the mask and blasted over it, it leaves a really cool frosted highlight. I'll see if I can dig up a pic of the one I did.

Russ

 

[Northstar T]

here ya go. "Fiero" in the center of the dash was done as discribed above. the mask is actually very inexpensive to have made ($25.oo included set up) and has great potential for all types of projects.

 

[tfeverfred]

here ya go. "Fiero" in the center of the dash was done as discribed above. the mask is actually very inexpensive to have made ($25.oo included set up) and has great potential for all types of projects.

OH MOMMY! I'm liking that VERY much! Hmm... think I'll sit down and plan out a dash insert today.

 

[Rick]

Fred quit farting around with it and drive her hard.

 

[tfeverfred]

Fred quit farting around with it and drive her hard.

I have and do, brother. On my days off, sometimes during the week, I buzz through downtown Houston and let folks know that they aren't having fun in their sheepmobiles. I put close to fifty miles on her 3 times a week.

 

[railroad]

Picked up the blasted headers this morning. Bee lined to the barn, strung a wire across the door opening and hung the headers and down turns for painting. I re read the instuctions on the ceramic coating. I bought about 3 Harbor Fgt mini detail guns a while back, $9.99 each. I had set one up earlier washing out with acetone. I bought two kits, since the headers and pipes were so long. I did not want to run out and not have everything coated. I think there is about 4 oz in each kit. I shot the pieces and still had coating left from the first can. Guess I'll get to do something else in ceramic coating. Man does that stuff cover and go a long way. Drying time 24 hours, light hand polish, engine cure, and power buff. I'll keep yall up dated. I put on new shackles and bushing on the front spring, stainless, set it off a little. I had the spring leaves sand blasted also. I painted the spring, with some hammered gray and it really looks good. I dropped the pan to clean out the alum from drilling the timing cover for a dip stick. Someone had shortened the side dip stick when they changed the pan to a front sump pan. I really had no way of checking the oil. The previous owner filled the pan until the oil reached the tip of the cut off dipstick, probably about 7 qts in 4 qt pan. Got the new dip stick installed. Now I have to plug the old hole in the block. I couldn't find a press in or screw in plug the right size in my junk. I'll find one tomorrow. I checked the pick up clearance while I have the pan off, glad there is a gasket in the equation.
Bad news I found a crack in one of my headers, after coating them. It is about 1/2 inch inside the flange on one of the tubes. I think I can weld it from the inside. I do not know what this will do to the coating in this area. I may try to cure the header and then do the weld. I still do not think the coating will take the heat. Instructions say you can do repairs on the coatings. I keep telling myself to quit working on this T and get started on the 27 body and frame I have. I just can't quit fixing up the little bucket.

 

[putz]

I had a small sand blaster with beads you could use very fine sand like used in cabinets. What I sandblasted was mugs with good masking tape careful not to blast back the tape.Try it on a piece of glass or steel with pressure turned down glass is easy very low pressure.