Carb problem.
- Thread starter oino
- Start date
putz
Member
Yes that is controlled by the float which needs to be checkedCould it be the niddle is stuck open?
They should make the bowls clean. hehe
Since I do not see external float adjustments on the carb and it looks new, I would try a few other things before cracking the new gaskets. You can pinch off the fuel line while it is running and as the fuel level and pressure is reduced, it should stop dripping. As you release the fuel line the possible surge might move any debris off the needle and seat. If the dripping persist, check your fuel pressure. Had to address this very issue, yesterday on my T. I am showing about 8#s of pressure, which I consider high, but I have been getting by with it. Back boosters were dripping, pulled sight plug and a full stream of piss colored gas came out. Plugged up and cranked the back float adjusters down until dripping stopped. I must have missed a dose of Sta-Bil and still need to lower pressure.
good luck,
good luck,
Mike
Well-Known Member
railroad is calling it right. Take a plastic handled screwdriver and rap the handle on the top welch plug, directly behind that left-rear secondary booster. If something is caught in the needle and seat, that might jar it loose. If not, check your fuel pressure. To be safe, set it no higher than 7 lbs. A good Holley needle and seat can handle more pressure, but 7 lbs. is more than adequate. If pressure is not excessively high, you're going to have to knock the float bowl off. Spray the needle and seat with some carb cleaner, to make sure it is clear of any foreign objects (Teflon tape is a common culprit) and then check the float level. Invert the bowl and set the top (which is now at the bottom) of the float is 3/8" from the ceiling (which is now the floor) of the float bowl. The top of the float should be parallel with the ceiling of the bowl when the needle is seated.
Wipe everything down, hold the bowl up to your mouth and blow air into the fuel inlet. Lift the float up and it should stop flowing air past the needle and seat.
Wipe everything down, hold the bowl up to your mouth and blow air into the fuel inlet. Lift the float up and it should stop flowing air past the needle and seat.
"The Bat" out of hell
Member
Just as a off note;
A little trick that helps if you do hard stops and starts or fast corners is to add a hose to the float top tubes to get them up higher near that top of aircleaner,it keeps fuel splash from coming up and out as EZ=motor stumbule right after hard start or stop or fast turn.
A little trick that helps if you do hard stops and starts or fast corners is to add a hose to the float top tubes to get them up higher near that top of aircleaner,it keeps fuel splash from coming up and out as EZ=motor stumbule right after hard start or stop or fast turn.
He's talking about the center vent you have circled on the pic of your carb. This tube used to be taller and a pressed in brass tube. Under extreme g's fuel could walk up the tube and spill over into the carb, ususally stalling it or causing it to break up. A simple cure was to slide a short piece of gas hose over the vent making it taller. Some carbs had this tube on both ends and they would connect the two with gas line and cut a skit vent in the top of the arc.
I was wondering why I would have some stinky gas in my carb as mentioned above and it finally dawned on me, I have not been getting into the secondaries, while driving. The gas in the back bowl just sits there. I think I got it figured out how to get some fresh gas in there. If any of you are putting around on the primaries as I was, you might want to consider this.
Mike
Well-Known Member
You're always going to experience some evaporation through the bowl vent, so it's not as if the secondary side would never see any fresh fuel.
Using hose to extend the bowl vents works pretty well in vehicles that experience extreme acceleration and braking, or in off-road vehicles. Amazingly enough, this a trick most drag racers have left behind. A typical Pro Stock car can cover the first 60 feet in about .985 - .990 second and not have problems with fuel slosh, so you're safe.
Not to mention trying to fit a piece of hose and keep it snug on those cast vents is nigh on impossible. And if you think a piece of hose can't get loose and find its way between the throttle blades and the throttle bores, let me introduce you to Mr. Murphy. If you do run a hose between the tubes, use a wire-tie to anchor it to the air cleaner stud.
Using hose to extend the bowl vents works pretty well in vehicles that experience extreme acceleration and braking, or in off-road vehicles. Amazingly enough, this a trick most drag racers have left behind. A typical Pro Stock car can cover the first 60 feet in about .985 - .990 second and not have problems with fuel slosh, so you're safe.
Not to mention trying to fit a piece of hose and keep it snug on those cast vents is nigh on impossible. And if you think a piece of hose can't get loose and find its way between the throttle blades and the throttle bores, let me introduce you to Mr. Murphy. If you do run a hose between the tubes, use a wire-tie to anchor it to the air cleaner stud.
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