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Cheesy 283 oil filter conversion

They seem to work OK, like you says that seal will leak. Did you use the old oil filter base inside of that new adapter? It is what holds the seal in place. You probably can't buy just that seal either you will have to buy an old style oil filter to get that o ring.
 
They seem to work OK, like you says that seal will leak. Did you use the old oil filter base inside of that new adapter? It is what holds the seal in place. You probably can't buy just that seal either you will have to buy an old style oil filter to get that o ring.

I called Napi and the kit part number is 4061 and its $24.00. Your right, they dont sell just the gasket/O-ring... I dont have the old base, its just the machined block. It has worked fine for the past 6 months, it has just been sitting with all this rain we have had. I started it up a few days ago after sitting, took it down the road and back and it sat for about an hour. When I started it up to go on a cruise, I backed out into the street and there was an oil trail from where it sat. A little odd if you ask me...
 
I called Napi and the kit part number is 4061 and its $24.00. Your right, they dont sell just the gasket/O-ring... I dont have the old base, its just the machined block. It has worked fine for the past 6 months, it has just been sitting with all this rain we have had. I started it up a few days ago after sitting, took it down the road and back and it sat for about an hour. When I started it up to go on a cruise, I backed out into the street and there was an oil trail from where it sat. A little odd if you ask me...
I have a feling there are other issues at work here. Also, if you REALLY looked around you can probably find that o'ring. By the way, what happened to the original o'ring? If the adapter was snug, it shouldn't have pushed out.
Perhaps an assembly error? Does it have a by-pass valve? Is there any kind of by-pass system in the motor?

I'm just say'en ....
 
That isn't cheesy the old toilet paper filter was really cheesy.These where in bypass probably from the start.
newcart3op.jpg
 
I have a feling there are other issues at work here. Also, if you REALLY looked around you can probably find that o'ring. By the way, what happened to the original o'ring? If the adapter was snug, it shouldn't have pushed out.
Perhaps an assembly error? Does it have a by-pass valve? Is there any kind of by-pass system in the motor?

I'm just say'en ....
This is odd .... when I hit the button to edit my entry, it says that I don't have permission to do that .... WT*

Anyway, Dovehunter, did you throw away the original o'ring for the canister? On the old E Jags it was the same canister system and if you didn't fish out the old o'ring and just put the new o'ring on top of it, it would eventually leak. Ask me how I know. And those o'rings could be hard to spot OR there would be TWO o'rings because the mechanic before me wouldn't remove the original o'ring. Also, were the bolts tight? After all, it's a plate held on by two bolts, if the plate is not warped (i.e. plate to block surface) then it should be good. Also if the o'ring is not pinched, cut or deformed, it should also be good.
 
This is odd .... when I hit the button to edit my entry, it says that I don't have permission to do that .... WT*

Anyway, Dovehunter, did you throw away the original o'ring for the canister? On the old E Jags it was the same canister system and if you didn't fish out the old o'ring and just put the new o'ring on top of it, it would eventually leak. Ask me how I know. And those o'rings could be hard to spot OR there would be TWO o'rings because the mechanic before me wouldn't remove the original o'ring. Also, were the bolts tight? After all, it's a plate held on by two bolts, if the plate is not warped (i.e. plate to block surface) then it should be good. Also if the o'ring is not pinched, cut or deformed, it should also be good.
Kinda glad you said that John because I didnt mention it... heres how it went down. The adapter came with the motor when I bought it, when it started leaking I pulled it out to check the o-ring and found that the original o-ring was not present. The two bolts were loose so I took an assumption that I could clean everything and it would possibly work. I pulled the adapter o-ring out to inspect it and it was pinched. I tried to turn it clean it and turn it around, put the bolts back in it, filter, then two quarts of oil. No bueno still so, today, I went ahead and purchased a new kit to alleviate even a remote possibility of the old one being warped. With the kit only being $24, I didnt even worry about hunting down the o-ring. Hope that answers your question John.
 
I have a feling there are other issues at work here. Also, if you REALLY looked around you can probably find that o'ring. By the way, what happened to the original o'ring? If the adapter was snug, it shouldn't have pushed out.
Perhaps an assembly error? Does it have a by-pass valve? Is there any kind of by-pass system in the motor?

I'm just say'en ....


I agree on assembly error... The two bolts were loose....(It has ran over 300 until it leaked*shrug*)


You lost me on the by-pass part?!?!?!?!
 
I agree on assembly error... The two bolts were loose....(It has ran over 300 until it leaked*shrug*)


You lost me on the by-pass part?!?!?!?!

0311cct_spin04_z.jpg

This is the by pass part and does not come in the kit. It must be used in order for that o ring to stay in place. The o ring fit around the outside of the by pass and the new adapter sets in on top of the oring. We installed a many of them way back in the day.
 
0311cct_spin04_z.jpg

This is the by pass part and does not come in the kit. It must be used in order for that o ring to stay in place. The o ring fit around the outside of the by pass and the new adapter sets in on top of the oring. We installed a many of them way back in the day.
Hopefully this will answer some questions. On most Chevys (in fact all) there is a a small one way valve at approx. 7:00 o'clock on the stock adapter (see above). Chevy put it there to by-pass oil back into the oil system if the oil filter became clogged either by dirt or by the filter element falling apart. It would also by-pass oil on start up in really cold weather so that the can would not rupture, o'ring blow out, or the filter element collapse. The new adapter does not have that provision. The old adapter by-pass valves would sometimes by-pass too much oil (piece of dirt or, again, pieces of the filter element itself, lodged between the valve and seat) leading to lower pressure and unfiltered oil. So hot rodders would put a pipe plug in the by-pass and then were assured of filtered oil and constant, accurate oil pressure. But on start up be very careful not to rev the engine until the oil has warmed up. With the canister type filters there is a possibility of rupture by way of too much pressure (again too much pressure cold with no by-pass). The pictures and information describing this adapter that you supplied, indicate that the old, by-pass adapter should be removed and the new adapter be put in it's place, not stacked one on the other.
Just clean all surfaces, put a little oil on the o'ring and tighten the bolts to, say, 10 ft. lbs. Should do it nicely. Also, don't forget to warm it up and drive it easy til the oil & coolent are over 125*F. An oil temp guage wouldn't be bad.


Hope that helps, John
 
John is right about the little pipe plug trick. The blower motor in my bucket has had that done to it. When you first start the engine and it is cold the oil pressure is a little bit low. After it warms up the oil pressure comes on up. Low is 30 psi and at running temp it goes to 60 psi. This way all the oil has to go thru the filter.
 
John is right about the little pipe plug trick. The blower motor in my bucket has had that done to it. When you first start the engine and it is cold the oil pressure is a little bit low. After it warms up the oil pressure comes on up. Low is 30 psi and at running temp it goes to 60 psi. This way all the oil has to go thru the filter.
Ron, what type of oil pump and oil are you running? In my expeience, on cold start up there would be higher oil pressure until the oil warmed up and then it would stabilize at a lower pressure.

Curious, John
 
using a 20-50 Castrol racing oil, with a modified stock pump. The gauge does not see the pressure before the filter, if I remember correctly
Yes the oil pressure signal is after the filter. Thick (50W) cold oil is harder to push through the filter. I always use a double adapter that uses two Ford filters in paralell and 15-40 diesel oil, oil press is almost the same cold to hot.
 


It must be me but years of racing have taught me that a bypass oil system only filters a small portion of the oil that goes through the engine. The debris that are otherwise unfiltered contribute greatly to the wear on an engine. If you are unfortunate enough to have a part that fails and fragments pieces of steel, a bypass oil system will distribute those fragments throughout the engine. I have had this happen once but never again.

The example of the oil filter exploding on the strip was not caused by the lack of a bypass. Any quality oil filter can easily flow all the oil that a engine not requiring a dry sump system can handle. Any pressure exceeding 65-75 pounds is considered excessive and can cause destruction of main and rod bearings. I expect when examined the damaged filter failed because it was stopped up and needed replacement or had been damaged. A stuck pressure relief valve in the oil pump can cause some pretty high pressure but I suspect the filters have been designed with a 2X or 3X safety factor.
 
Yes the oil pressure signal is after the filter. Thick (50W) cold oil is harder to push through the filter. I always use a double adapter that uses two Ford filters in paralell and 15-40 diesel oil, oil press is almost the same cold to hot.

Diesel oil has more film strength and 'slipperyness', which is good in hi-perf. and engines that we all love and hold dear...
 
My kid has a 383 sbc stroker motor on the stand in the garage. What weight oil should be used? We do have comp cams oil additive. Should the be used every oil change . It is a 97 with a roller cam.
 

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