Coated headers

[TexasT]

Hey guys, quick question. On the coated headers, what are you guys using to protect the coating(wax,polish,etc.). I just ordered a set from Speedway and was wondering what to use to keep them nice. A buddy of mine bought a set of block huggers from San derson about 2 yrs ago, and they look horrible, lot of rust. I was just wondering if you have to keep em polished or maybe it was a bad coat. Thanks guys

 

[Rick]

I dont use anything and they look new after 4 years.The big thing to remember is be fore you use them for the first time wash them with soappy water and blow dry.The reason is the oils in your hands and drips WILL screw them up.After running them for a while let them cool down and you'll not have any problems.Just be sure to clean any oils that should drip on them when there cold.You cant control it when there hot.

 

[TexasT]

Appreciate the info Rick, I did that one time on a chrome header and to this day you can see my handprint real clear on one tube.

 

[lincolnuT]

The fellow that caoted mine on the Yellow Car told me to only use "Mothers" on mine and I have done that for the last 4 years and they look great. I already had some pitting on them and that has not come back yet. I had these done in Albuquerque for a great price but as with all other things the price is much higher today..............

Mike

 

[ellis8500]

I've read that you should not use ceramic coated headers during early engine breakin. Don't know why that is but you can look it up and see if the manufacturer tells you that. Probably has to do with the oils that might be blown out at first start. Others can chime in on that.

 

[Rick]

also the extreme heat involved if your timing is off any.I've seen chrome ones turn cherry red.That would suck with the ceramic.

 

[Mike]

Rick, I always recommend people wear rubber gloves when handling headers with fresh paint/coating.

 

[benT]

Silver Ceramic Coatings are good to about 1300 degrees. You should not use them on engine break in as you may have lean conditions or fuel leaks that might compromise the coatings. My Dad owns a coating shop that specializes in ceramic coatings, engine coatings and powder coatings for Hot Rod, Race Cars, Bikes, etc.. Every header that goes out of the shop has a disclaimer about over temping the coating and a recommendation on what to use to keep the shine. We recommend Mothers aluminum mag polish for periodic polishing. The silver ceramic coatings that we use (along with Jet Hot and others) uses a lot of aluminum in the mix. That's what gives it the brilliant silver shine after its polished. We do a final hand polishing of each header or part with Mothers after it comes out of our vibratory polishing tank. And no, we do not get any consideration from them, we buy it the same as everyone else...its just that we use a whole lot of it!

If you have a race car, turbos, or are concerend with the temperatures, there are ceramic coatings good to upwards of 2300 degrees (not polished silver however). We coat the headers for the reigning NHRA Top Fuel Dragster with this coating and special sealer.

As for peeling, pitting and rust, that should not happen although we have had some issues where the metal on the headers we received is so bad, that coating them is futile. If it is just the coating, you should call the ceramic coater (or mfgr) and have a discussion about your issues. We warrant our coatings for 2 years (new or re-recoated) so we obviously have faith in our products and application.

If anyone has any other ceramic or powdercoating questions, let me know and myself or my Pop will be glad to help.

 

[TexasT]

Yeah Ive known about the break in, I always have a set of ol plain headers to break in with.

 

[sstock]

Ben, those are some nice looking coated pieces.
I'm seriously thinking of building my T completely devoid of chrome and coating the pieces that would be otherwise shiny.
Most manufacturers want 2 grand more for say a front end kit to chrome, can anyone tell me what it would run to coat a front axle, spring, pair of radius arms,spindles,steering arms and a tierod plus draglink?? Bet it isnt no 2 grand

 

[benT]

Ben, those are some nice looking coated pieces.
I'm seriously thinking of building my T completely devoid of chrome and coating the pieces that would be otherwise shiny.
Most manufacturers want 2 grand more for say a front end kit to chrome, can anyone tell me what it would run to coat a front axle, spring, pair of radius arms,spindles,steering arms and a tierod plus draglink?? Bet it isnt no 2 grand

Funny you say that, my entire front end: axle, hairpins, steering arms, spindle, brakes, draglink, panhard bar, etc are ceramic coated with a clear coat. No polishing, just normal cleaning and waxing like clear coated paint. My headers, intake manifold, valve covers, alt brackets, and air cleaner are also ceramic coated.

We've coated customers axles and such...It would definitely be less than 2 grand. It would probably be less than half of that depending on prep. Chrome or silver sparkle powdercoating would be even cheaper.

Here is a front shot of my '27 and my lady on the cruise to Somerset last year.

 

[fordsbyjay]

A buddy of mine bought a set of block huggers from San derson about 2 yrs ago, and they look horrible, lot of rust.

Mine are from Sanderson as well and they look like 40 year old hookers. Too bad they are 4 years old and have a measly 800 miles. The coating is peeling off everywhere. I just sent them out to be redone at nitroplate so hopefully they will last a bit longer. As far as polish I did check with a place locally and they used a polish after coating just like Ben mentioned. I can't remember what brand though.

 

[TexasT]

Hey Jay thats what I was talking about on my buddies sanderson headers, rust all around the ports and welds as if was too thin. They are only 3 yrs old, the only thing good about his is that they havent leaked.