Completely clueless in Utah
- Thread starter Ferg Daddy
- Start date
RodStRace
Member
These cars are simple. If you undertake a car project, this will have the most basic suspension, frame, drivetrain, body, wiring and accessory combo of just about anything that can be driven on the street. The issues you run into can range from simple repairs to major rework, but the end result is still a simple car.
Consider it a small 2 room cottage. You still have a roof, exterior walls, wiring and plumbing, interior walls, floor and basic appliances, so you will need to be able to work on each of those. But the amount of work is less than the same work on a 3Br 2Ba split level.
I'd suggest watching the series this guy did.
www.youtube.com
He covered the whole build, driving it and repairs. He made some mistakes but was willing to show it, warts and all.
If you find yourself overwhelmed, do more research.
If you yell at him as he does things wrong, you are ready.
Consider it a small 2 room cottage. You still have a roof, exterior walls, wiring and plumbing, interior walls, floor and basic appliances, so you will need to be able to work on each of those. But the amount of work is less than the same work on a 3Br 2Ba split level.
I'd suggest watching the series this guy did.
Speedway Motors 1923 Ford T Bucket Hot Rod
1923 Ford Model T Roadster from Speedway Motors
www.youtube.com
If you find yourself overwhelmed, do more research.
If you yell at him as he does things wrong, you are ready.
Ferg Daddy
New Member
Tempting, but I think my wife might see that as more of a project than starting from scratch. Ultimately, I need her on board with what I plan to do. She contributes more to the piggy bank than I do.
RodStRace
Member
round tube frame, SBF. Priced at the full kit price, running.
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If you prefer having it all local rather than online.
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Ferg Daddy
New Member
I probably ask the same questions over and over, but I just don’t have a lot of vehicle knowledge.
what is the easiest way to do my engine? Maybe that’s not how I should word it. Like I know I really want a 289. So let’s say I find one, just the motor. What else do I need? I know nothing about carburetors. Am I better off with fuel injection? What’s easiest? Cheapest? Then I need what else? Fuel pump? Water pump? Alternator? I love the look of a blower, but they seem very $$$.
Suppose I want to buy a car that has most of that stuff that I can just use, which car would be a good choice? And how much is too much to spend on that?
what is the easiest way to do my engine? Maybe that’s not how I should word it. Like I know I really want a 289. So let’s say I find one, just the motor. What else do I need? I know nothing about carburetors. Am I better off with fuel injection? What’s easiest? Cheapest? Then I need what else? Fuel pump? Water pump? Alternator? I love the look of a blower, but they seem very $$$.
Suppose I want to buy a car that has most of that stuff that I can just use, which car would be a good choice? And how much is too much to spend on that?
First, a 289 will be harder to find than a 302, which is basically the same engine. A donor vehicle is a great way to find an engine, because you get all the peripheral stuff with it. Even though you profess ignorance when it comes to carburetors, they are still the least expensive way to go, and most of the modern ones require very little maintenance. Is a "crate" engine within your budget? A mildly tuned one can still be had for around 5 grand. Food for thought . . .
Ferg Daddy
New Member
I think I can find a donor vehicle for less than 5k. I understand it will need work, but I’d rather spend the time than the money. More rewarding.
Ferg Daddy
New Member
That being said, what years should I look for in a donor vehicle? Like ‘65 to ‘85?
RodStRace
Member
You need to do more research. Watch the videos, get the build guides, read posts here. Flesh out the details of the dream.
As for a donor, which is probably mentioned in the Build a Roadster for under $3000 book, first, you need to have a good working knowledge of all the systems. Second, you must realize that the typical used car depreciates until 20-30 years after it's built, then the cars that old that have survived start to go up in price due to nostalgia and supply to demand along with inflation. Third, there hasn't been a good donor vehicle built for a T-Bucket in a very long time. You want a V8 (ford for you) with an automatic transmission, and a fairly narrow rear axle. Crown Vics are too wide, even later Mustangs are pretty wide and trucks are even worse. The last V8s with carbs were the early 80s. That's 40+ years ago! Search for 79-82 Mustangs and Fairmonts and you will see that they are rare and expensive.
Now you have an engine with accessories you won't use, a transmission that's got over 100K on it, and a too wide rear axle with wrong attachment points, plus maybe some gauges, wiring, possibly a fuel tank and maybe 4 lug wheels. Get the driveshaft shortened. That 5K donor you scored is now a carcass you need to haul off for scrap or part out, to try to get your money back out. This can take years.
You still need to buy or build everything that is supplied in the typical Stage 4 kit. CCR's kit is 9700 according to the site. Add 230 for Ford mounts.
If it's time over money, scrounge a core engine/trans, buy a body and put together a frame out of 2X4 wood. Stare at it and picture every detail. Haunt swap meets, estate sales and junkyards. Have a complete, highly detailed shopping list of the parts you want, the acceptqble substitute(s) and prices. Snap up bargains and trade your time for deals.
As for a donor, which is probably mentioned in the Build a Roadster for under $3000 book, first, you need to have a good working knowledge of all the systems. Second, you must realize that the typical used car depreciates until 20-30 years after it's built, then the cars that old that have survived start to go up in price due to nostalgia and supply to demand along with inflation. Third, there hasn't been a good donor vehicle built for a T-Bucket in a very long time. You want a V8 (ford for you) with an automatic transmission, and a fairly narrow rear axle. Crown Vics are too wide, even later Mustangs are pretty wide and trucks are even worse. The last V8s with carbs were the early 80s. That's 40+ years ago! Search for 79-82 Mustangs and Fairmonts and you will see that they are rare and expensive.
Now you have an engine with accessories you won't use, a transmission that's got over 100K on it, and a too wide rear axle with wrong attachment points, plus maybe some gauges, wiring, possibly a fuel tank and maybe 4 lug wheels. Get the driveshaft shortened. That 5K donor you scored is now a carcass you need to haul off for scrap or part out, to try to get your money back out. This can take years.
You still need to buy or build everything that is supplied in the typical Stage 4 kit. CCR's kit is 9700 according to the site. Add 230 for Ford mounts.
If it's time over money, scrounge a core engine/trans, buy a body and put together a frame out of 2X4 wood. Stare at it and picture every detail. Haunt swap meets, estate sales and junkyards. Have a complete, highly detailed shopping list of the parts you want, the acceptqble substitute(s) and prices. Snap up bargains and trade your time for deals.
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