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differential

As Golly said! Do your homework, think about what you want before you light that torch! Make plans and stick to them, plan it all out.
 
The ole Altereds and Diggers of yesteryear were solid like that. before we decided to build flex into the frame to absorb shock and torque and act as a tuning aid. Still catching 14 diff. kinds of hell for the wheels by the drivers cage....
We've tried and done alot of stupid stuff in the racing dept. (like the sideways mounted top fuel motor), but a articulated rear suspension is needed in any streetcar, especially a T.

Hitting a big pothole at 60mph on a OLD 2 lane highway, those big Hoosiers on the rear, bouncing, while meeting a big tractor/trailer, does not inspire me with confidence, nor does it make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside....
My skin grows back alot slower now, and I have enough aches and pains as it is. Take care of yourself while your young if you can. Protect your eyes and your ears. Shoddy workmanship on a small, light car such as a T that can have a really big power to weight ratio, can get you killed, FAST!,
A short wheelbased, light, powerful car, such as a T can be a handful for even the most experienced among us....Ask any Altered driver....
Just be safe....
 
thank you all for you information and wisdom. After getting under the car and getting a good look at it this is what I found. At first glace it looked like the rear end was welded directly on to the frame as I had originally posted. What I found instead of using radius bars the builder welded frame material to the differential and ran it up to a mount on the actual frame just like a radius bar would have been used. The springs run from seats welded on the differential up to the actual frame just like they should be. the shocks also seem to be mounted in an acceptable manner and the differential has a stud welded on the top of it with stabilizers running each direction, I think it like what's called a watts link. I didn't have a camera to get pics but it looks like a very solid plan to me. I'm by no means a T bucket designer so I do want to post pics to see what you experts have to say. thank you all again, your knowledge is so much appreciated.
 
Ohh, so it has suspension. The "radius rods" are just welded to the rear instead of being bolted to a bracket? Hmmm...
 
instead of using radius bars the builder welded frame material to the differential and ran it up to a mount on the actual frame just like a radius bar would have been used. The springs run from seats welded on the differential up to the actual frame just like they should be.

Very similar to a V8 powered trike that was sold commercially (may still be). I knew a fellow that bought one several years ago. In that setup, the builder used the lower links off of a 70's era stock GM triangulated 4-bar. These were bolted solid to the bottom of the axle and retained the stock rubber bushing at the frame. The trike didn't have anything to locate the axle from side to side.

I suppose your setup would work OK (basically the same as a hairpin), but is probably pretty heavy. How it is actually built would be my concern. What kind of bushings are used at the pivots of the lower bars ? What is used to locate the axle laterally? Are the bolts on the lower bars in single shear or double?
 
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IM going to go play with her tomorrow so ill get some pics of all of it and you can tell what you think. I very much value you guys opinions and sugestions
 

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