Donsrod frame

[one finger john]

Good morning, Don what is the amount of kick up in the rear of the black car?
(the T) Also the z at the fire wall?
The reason I ask is that some one mentioned having to take a flying leap to get into their T because it was so tall. I can do that but would prefer to enter gracefully. Therefore I would like to find a way of lowering the body/frame perhaps 6 to 8 inches. Maybe more. I know that these cars are a game of inches and if anything is off, even by inches, they don't look right.
I would be shooting for something about waist high (approx. 36 in. at the top of the body with the body level or with a very slight rake).
If you could help me with this I would appreciate it. Also wheel base if you know it.

Thanks, John.

 

[Ted Brown]

Hi, If you look at my T you will see 34&1/2" from the top of my body (where you get in) to the ground, as I get older that gets a lot higher, it feels like anyway, was almost thinking of cutting down just that side (passenger) of the body??? a bit, so it would be easier to get your leg over that first hump.. hehe but it is great fun to watch a Lady get in with a dress on that way.. hehe (or less, hehe)

 

["The Bat" out of hell]

Always good to have a step on pass side,this one I put on Rosh's just 1in. above the EX pipe,but is attached to frame so it can be stepped on ,for that extra bootist up. I cut a"A" step in 1/2 to size that I think looks good.

 

[EX JUNK]

John, here is a quick sketch of the kick on the rear of my frame.

Where I step over the side to get in measures 29 1/2" and here is a profile shot of it.

I hope that this helps you.

Jim

 

[Ted Brown]

5 inches less than mine, and that is a BUNCH, let me tell you, and it is a NICE bunch, now that I am older...

 

[Ted Brown]

Always good to have a step on pass side,this one I put on Rosh's just 1in. above the EX pipe,but is attached to frame so it can be stepped on ,for that extra bootist up. I cut a"A" step in 1/2 to size that I think looks good.

Sorry but a step like that will not help in getting in or out of a T Bucket, as it is way too close to the body, to do any real good, it would have to be out past the headers, and they don't even work, too close, as I have had many people standing in my muffler wondering what to do next..hehe just too close.. Good thought though

 

[Youngster]

4"or so out from the body works just fine ... use a brake pedal pad with an arm coming off the frame. i don't have a picture but i will see the 2 car that have them soon ... i'll take pics then.

best way to avoid this problem is to open the door!!

hated when folks would step on the hot headers with tennis shoes on ... really stinks!!!!!

Ron

 

[Rick]

4"or so out from the body works just fine ... use a brake pedal pad with an arm coming off the frame. i don't have a picture but i will see the 2 car that have them soon ... i'll take pics then.

best way to avoid this problem is to open the door!!

hated when folks would step on the hot headers with tennis shoes on ... really stinks!!!!!

Ron

and ITS A PAIN IND THE BUT TO GET OFF.

 

[donsrods]

It's been a few years since we built my frame, so I sort of forget what the rear kickup is, but I think about 12 inches. I'll be happy to measure it for you when I go to the shop this week again. There is no kickup in front, I was able to get it that low by the way I did the suicide front end, I fastened the front spring perch to a mount I built UNDER the Ford wishbones.

I wanted this one to be low, and it is, but it has never bottomed out and I drive it like a car, no slowing down for driveway inclines or anything like that.

Here are some pictures that might help you in the meantime until I can measure it for you.

Don

As you can see, it's pretty low. Only comes about knee high on a beach bunny.

This one shows the rear kickup pretty well.

This picture probably shows the frame layout the best.

Here is the actual tubing cut and ready to be welded into the rear kickup.

 

[Ga_Mike]

This is what I copied from another forum that you posted along time ago I think Don

We used some 2 x 4 lumber and built a kickup onto the old frame and held it in place with C-clamps, and eyeballed it until we had one that looked good and would get us down there. It ended up at a 14 inch rear kickup. We also wanted the kickup to sort of be in the same plane as the rear curvature of the '23 body, so we dialed in an 80 degree angle to it and cut the tubing so it would lay in that position.


Hope you don't mind....

Mike

 

[donsrods]

No, thank you. You jogged my memory a little.


Don

 

[Ga_Mike]

Your welcome. I love your ride. Plan on building one very shortly. Waiting on body to come in. Spirit called today and said body was shipping. Going to four link the back to get it low I guess. Going with 4" or 6" kit to drop the front. I love the low look. Been watching your stuff forever and have never posted. Love you and your sons projects.

Sorry to hijack the thread.

Mike

 

[donsrods]

Thanks again Mike. You know you have to post lots of pictures when you get going there. Bet you can't wait for the body to come. I keep hearing so many good things about Spirit bodies.

Don

 

[one finger john]

Ted, hey Ted, are you around? Can you tell me what the kick up on a CCR frame might be? Also, is the frame constructed in what I would call supportive levels? In that the main frame supports the body while the kick up supports the bed (along with gas tank and possibly battery)? My way of seeing things is that to lower the rear you must raise the suspension attachment points, which means that the kick up must be longer or the mounts must raised an amount that equals the amount that the frame is lowered. Would either way of raising the suspension points cause the frame to encroach on the bed or be raised up into the bed? Am I making sense? If not I'll try again.

Thanks, John.

 

[Ted Brown]

John, The stock CCR frame and kick is correct for lowering that body over the frame the frame width=3" and hides the rear section of frame under the bed, to lower one a bit more, starting from scratch?? and yes the frame supports both the body and bed floors.. It is the easiest to lower the whole thing would be to drop the suspension points connected to the rear end axle housing, just don't go below the rims, as that would be againest our Calif. too low law.. Nothing can hang below the line of the four rims, they say if it will roll around on four bare wheels, it is legal... where was I ??? oh ya, also you will have to now have tunnel all the way through your floor boards, (with a lowered chassis) make sure you use a thinner rubber bumper for the axle housing to hit on when it bounces down hard... hope I am clear with my writing??? if not ask again..