Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

Drilling holes for windshield

Yes Fred,
I say if it's not thick enough, BUILD IT UP WITH WHATEVER, then drill. You have meet many challenges before with this car, it's only minor rocket science after all.:D
 
At this point, without the body, it's all guess work. When you have everything there in front of you, it will become much easier to figure out whay needs to be done. I know how hard it is to wait.
 
lanceks1 said:
Yes Fred,
I say if it's not thick enough, BUILD IT UP WITH WHATEVER, then drill. You have meet many challenges before with this car, it's only minor rocket science after all.:D

I'm not worried. DO I LOOK WORRIED!?!?

crazy-guy.jpg
 
Has anybody told you you're getting more gray on top, since you started building? But how satisfying!!! I just finished a picture book for my car, and it's scarey seeing what I did.:D
 
lanceks1 said:
Has anybody told you you're getting more gray on top, since you started building? But how satisfying!!! I just finished a picture book for my car, and it's scarey seeing what I did.:)


:lol:No, but then, I wear a baseball cap most of the time. I have noticed and keep my hair cut Micheal Jordan style. Damn near bald. The ladies love it!:D
 
butch27 said:
Fred: Youngster has it right. Just do it yourself. Back it up with something and BOLT. I backed mine inside with a piece of 3/32" steel and bent it a little to conform.

Wow, Butch. I totally over looked your post. Now THAT's a good idea! A plate, combined with using lock washers and nylocs would seem to do the trick. I think the plate may even spread the load also.

More food for thought.:D:)
 
Okay, here's a sketch I just did. Not to scale. I think this may work. Any opinions?

windshieldposts0001.jpg


Sorry it's not in color. I was in a hurry.;)
 
Fred...you have the right idea. One thing to remember is you don't want any movement between the windshield and the body. Everything needs to be as solid as you can make it. If not, cracks in the 'glass and chipped paint or cracked glass could be the result.

Here are some thoughts. The rubber, while it would protect the paint, is compressable. This would let the windshield vibrate at speed. To get the wood blocking to fit as close to the body as possible, install it with some body filler between it and the body. Not much, but enough to fill any voids in that area. With the Ny-locs, you won't need the lock washers.
 
Thanks, Youngster. Thanks, Butch. I should have put an explanation of what was going on. Okay, the post attach to the body. Skip the rubber. Inside the body, the wood is attached to the cowl with bondo as per the way Total does it. Then the washers, then the nylocs. I know I don't need lock washers with nylocs, but they couldn't hurt, I guess.
 
Thanks guys! I think I just shaved $95 off the price of my body!

yes.jpg
 
Yeah, well.... you did and you didn't....you'll spend that much on the suplies and wood. But then there is something else to tell your grandkid about!
 
Youngster said:
Yeah, well.... you did and you didn't....you'll spend that much on the suplies and wood. But then there is something else to tell your grandkid about!
Well kids pull up a chair this is my $1.00 worth on mounting the wood and windershield.First go to Home Depot or such and pick up 6 spring clamps about 8 inches long with the rubber slide on tips.Now you get 30 foot of 1x3(3/4 x2-3/4)now as per the manual cut the required pieces for each length.Now ya got a big pile of little pieces.Start by putting a big champfer on the edge that will go under and against the under lip area.Where the pieces meet angle the edges to 45 degrees where they meet(more surface area for the Bondoto bond test fit to about 1 1/2 under the cowel area where the windershield goes clamp that in place now go to the next piece champfer and fit clamp that in place etc.,etc. Always work 5 to 6 pieces at a time.Now mix up some bondo(how much?)alot.Now start by taking a putty knife and smudge a ton under the lip back batter the wood slide it in place tight now clamp make sure the angles have a bunch.Do 6 then go get a beer relaxe for a couple hours to set.Be prepared to go with pieces 1 in long up around the curve of the body.Congrads you now have started an episode of "This Old Car"
As you can see the first pic is Totals with the built in posts i did that on the last Bucket.HAVE FUN.OOPS to many

Picture007.jpg

Picture007.jpg


DSCF0001.jpg



8.jpg
 
Fred,
You make like to fill the space between the post, and the body. I used Bondo with cut up FG matt/cloth (Kitty Hair), anchor 1/8" holes on the body. Like to early posts. Attach pictures.
 
Youngster said:
Yeah, well.... you did and you didn't....you'll spend that much on the suplies and wood. But then there is something else to tell your grandkid about!
No Youngster, the $95 saving will come from not having Total drill the windshield holes.

As for the wood kit install....... looking at Ricks pics, I could do that. IF I was working in my own shop or garage. I'm not. I'm building this at work and my boss has been more than generous with allowing me to pursue my folly. The next 4-5 months are our busiest. Lots of weekends and moving and shipping will be done. I wouldn't have the amount of room to work, even for a weekend, to do what looks like may be needed. Not to mention the mess I would probably make. I just can't take advantage of the generosity. The build up of where the windshield post would go, wouldn't be so bad. He wouldn't mind that. So, I guess I'm back to getting the body with the wood kit installed. Maybe for my next T Bucket or project, I'll be able to rent a space where I'll be able to have more freedom to be creative. I just don't right now.

"IS THIS GUY EVER GOING TO MAKE UP HIS DANG MIND? SIGHS"
you_got_to_be_kidding.jpg
 

     Ron Pope Motorsports                Advertise with Us!     
Back
Top