Indycars
Well-Known Member
What keeps them from disconnecting the gps?
Wanted Enclosed Car Trailer
- Thread starter Indycars
- Start date
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
Stealth, hopefully. I hate thieves, but when I think of the often small amount of money they sell stuff for, grrrr!
They seem to hit the motels, etc around car shows, and events. They also like to steal from the police impound yard and the owner is SOL.
THAT is why you have GOOD insurance.
Like the T-Bucket that disappeared on another thread and still not found. If you own it--insure it!!!!
Dezolde
Member
You're right, that's a hike just to take a look. Could meet half way but still a bit of a stretch just to look if you're not sure you want to buy. Too bad as seems to meet your requirements. Good luck in finding something closer.
I'm planning to attend 5/1 Nazareth, TX NTBA event so certainly closer to you if you're still interested.
Indycars
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the offer, but think I will just wait!
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
Just use a in-expensive cell phone. Gotta make sure the batteries stay charged. I saw where I guy found his stolen car several states away.
rbsWELDER
Active Member
Interesting! Please tell me more.
Indycars
Well-Known Member
Yes, it does include undercoating.
They use untreated plywood, guess that's better than OSB wood?
Indycars
Well-Known Member
I forgot to include some E-Track.
- How many do I need, two on the floor and one on each wall ???
- Can I install it on top of the surface to the wood or does it need to be flush mounted to
the metal structure from the factory?
What is L-Track, better or worse? Or it has a totally different purpose?
- How many do I need, two on the floor and one on each wall ???
- Can I install it on top of the surface to the wood or does it need to be flush mounted to
the metal structure from the factory?
What is L-Track, better or worse? Or it has a totally different purpose?
rbsWELDER
Active Member
One thing that we did not talk about here, other than a brief mention by T=Test, is Weight Distribution Hitches.
1-Make sure that your tow vehicle is rated to pull your gross load (i.e. weight of Trailer, T-Bucket and what ever else you will be hauling in the trailer). My empty trailer weighs 3200 lbs, my T weights 2002 lbs with a half of a tank of gas, and I assume that we put 750 more pounds of stuff in the trailer. Therefore my total weight is: 5,952. My tow vehicle can handle 7,500 lbs, so I am okay.
2-Most experts agree – that an acceptable tongue weight for any trailer is somewhere between 9 to 15 percent of the gross trailer weight (GTW). So call my gross weight 6,000 lbs. I checked my tongue weight, at coupler height, and it is just under 800 pounds. Therefore my percentage is about 13%, so I am okay.
3-Since most of us have a trailer longer than we need, we can adjust the tongue weight by moving the car forward or backward, in order to get in the safe tongue weight zone. I bought a tongue weight scale on eBay made by Sherline, and it works great, but you can use a bathroom scale. There are several videos on YouTube that show how to do this. Here is a link to one:HTTPS://WWW.YouTube.com/watch?v=8A-94sEtlN8.
4-So that was kind of a long winded dissertation on actually trailering a heavy load. Once you get up to this kind of weight, a Weight Distribution Hitch (WDH) is in order. If you ever towed a trailer that was loaded improperly, you know what I mean. Sway and violent sway (Whipping) is the issue. Lots of videos on YouTube showing the problem and consequences. Trust me a WDH is cheap insurance! If after you do a test pull and you still have sway, you can add a Sway Control System to the WDH.
1-Make sure that your tow vehicle is rated to pull your gross load (i.e. weight of Trailer, T-Bucket and what ever else you will be hauling in the trailer). My empty trailer weighs 3200 lbs, my T weights 2002 lbs with a half of a tank of gas, and I assume that we put 750 more pounds of stuff in the trailer. Therefore my total weight is: 5,952. My tow vehicle can handle 7,500 lbs, so I am okay.
2-Most experts agree – that an acceptable tongue weight for any trailer is somewhere between 9 to 15 percent of the gross trailer weight (GTW). So call my gross weight 6,000 lbs. I checked my tongue weight, at coupler height, and it is just under 800 pounds. Therefore my percentage is about 13%, so I am okay.
3-Since most of us have a trailer longer than we need, we can adjust the tongue weight by moving the car forward or backward, in order to get in the safe tongue weight zone. I bought a tongue weight scale on eBay made by Sherline, and it works great, but you can use a bathroom scale. There are several videos on YouTube that show how to do this. Here is a link to one:HTTPS://WWW.YouTube.com/watch?v=8A-94sEtlN8.
4-So that was kind of a long winded dissertation on actually trailering a heavy load. Once you get up to this kind of weight, a Weight Distribution Hitch (WDH) is in order. If you ever towed a trailer that was loaded improperly, you know what I mean. Sway and violent sway (Whipping) is the issue. Lots of videos on YouTube showing the problem and consequences. Trust me a WDH is cheap insurance! If after you do a test pull and you still have sway, you can add a Sway Control System to the WDH.
Indycars
Well-Known Member
I emailed Frank and asked which series of trailer I was being quoted so I could look over the website
and see if there were any additional options I liked. He said it was the "V Series Auto Hauler".
V-Series Auto Car Trailers by Continental
Standard Features
and see if there were any additional options I liked. He said it was the "V Series Auto Hauler".
V-Series Auto Car Trailers by Continental
Standard Features
- 102″ Wide Body Design
- Ramp Door with Spring Assist
- No-Show Beavertail
- 36″ Side Door with Steel Step
- Semi-Style Camlock Door Latches
- Door Hold-Backs on All Doors
- Leaf Spring Axle
- 18″ Wedge Front Nose (Flat Front w/ Anodized Corners In Place of 18″ Wedge Available)
- (2) Flow Thru Sidewall Vents
- Silver Powder Coated Wheels
- Bias Ply Tires
- Galvanized Roof
- Aluminum Top Rails
- Exterior Aluminum Fenders
- DOT Lighting
- License Plate Holder with Built-In Light
- .024 White Aluminum Exterior
- ATP Aluminum Wrap on Rear
- Exposed Steel Painted Epoxy Black
- Z-Tech Undercoated Frame
- Welded Safety Chains
- Full-Color Decals
- (2) 12V Dome Lights (1) Wall Switch
- (1) Roof Vent
- 16″ ATP Stoneguard
- Clear Lens LED Clearance Lights
- Clear Lens LED Strip Tail Lights
Indycars
Well-Known Member
I'm wondering what you guys think about E-Track installed during the trailer build so it's
flush with the surface. Or can I install it ON the surface after I get the trailer. Seems it
might be important on the floor to be flush so you're not always tripping over the darn
thing. For the wall it doesn't seem nearly as important.
Another important point ..... Insurance!
Where do you typically get trailer insurance, thru your car insurance carrier?
Does it cover the contents?
flush with the surface. Or can I install it ON the surface after I get the trailer. Seems it
might be important on the floor to be flush so you're not always tripping over the darn
thing. For the wall it doesn't seem nearly as important.
Another important point ..... Insurance!
Where do you typically get trailer insurance, thru your car insurance carrier?
Does it cover the contents?
G'Day RB,
Some good points there re the W/D Hitch, lots of people fail to understand the use of one. You have quoted 800Lb (363Kg) on the drawbar of your Truck. How much weight came off the front when you were hooked up? The weight on the draw bar reduces the braking and steering ability of the Truck by a fair amount.
As an example, I had a Van with a Tare of 2020Kg, hitch weight was 243Kg. The Crew Cab 4x4 Ute's here have the back axle right at the front of the tub so hitch weight has a big effect. Mine lost 105Kg off the front with the van on, and the Distribution hitch put 57Kg of that back on the front and transferred some extra weight to the van axles. Was a very safe unit to drive in this configuration.
Regards,
Some good points there re the W/D Hitch, lots of people fail to understand the use of one. You have quoted 800Lb (363Kg) on the drawbar of your Truck. How much weight came off the front when you were hooked up? The weight on the draw bar reduces the braking and steering ability of the Truck by a fair amount.
As an example, I had a Van with a Tare of 2020Kg, hitch weight was 243Kg. The Crew Cab 4x4 Ute's here have the back axle right at the front of the tub so hitch weight has a big effect. Mine lost 105Kg off the front with the van on, and the Distribution hitch put 57Kg of that back on the front and transferred some extra weight to the van axles. Was a very safe unit to drive in this configuration.
Regards,
Cost me $57.00 a year to insure for $10,000.00 through my auto Insurance company. Trailer upgrades only, not the car which is insured separately than regular auto ins.
Yes if you can afford it have the e-track installed in the floor as you stated for not to trip over and if placed with the width of the rear tires you can use the cradle straps that go over the tires and use the tie down rings for the front or specify short runs for the position of the e-track for the width of front end. MUST know where car will be positioned in trailer.
Or if e-track is run full length of trailer you can use rings in e-track and cross tie to car to the axles. Always cross tie so car cannot move side to side and hit walls or inner wheel wells. BTDT when hauling heavy equipment. Things move around when you think they wont.
Yes if you can afford it have the e-track installed in the floor as you stated for not to trip over and if placed with the width of the rear tires you can use the cradle straps that go over the tires and use the tie down rings for the front or specify short runs for the position of the e-track for the width of front end. MUST know where car will be positioned in trailer.
Or if e-track is run full length of trailer you can use rings in e-track and cross tie to car to the axles. Always cross tie so car cannot move side to side and hit walls or inner wheel wells. BTDT when hauling heavy equipment. Things move around when you think they wont.
