Engine too! More problems.

[Screaming Metal]

I've no idea of what the vent pressure is, but I can't imagine the number is very high. Pressurizing the fuel tank would start forcing fuel through the tank pickup, as well as causing cap blow-off when removed and possible splash at the same time. I don't want any pressure in a fuel tank, period.

Yup, what Mike said! Pressurized fuel tanks, no good has come from them. Dangerous. You should run a vented cap, ever seen a full gas can sitting out in the hot sun? Try to open it....you'll have some of that gas on you....this is exactly what Mike's saying. I would rather have some evaporate than to take a bath in the stuff. If your tank is covered and kept cool, this will help. Painted reflective aluminum or bright white helps. THAT, in combo with the two way cap will work....but a vented cap is best. But, vented is also a safety hazard in some ways. You can't smoke around that tank, do any cutting with a torch or plasma or you might blow yourself up. And gas fumes sitting at a redlight and sloshing upon a quick stop...just a touch might come out of a hole in the top.

Is the pressure thing fixed? Did you get her started today? Is she still running rich? Well, if I were going your way I'd give you a hand, maybe one of the members local to you might help you out. If not, we'll eventually talk you all the way thru it. Gotta go eat, will check back in a little....

 

[oino]

I took the bad regulater back. They didn't have another one in stock. Witch is ok. Didn't realize I was out of money. Tryed to buy some food and my card was declined. $3.47 in my account. Looks like things are on hold till Thursday.

I'll post an update as soon as I can.

Thank you guys for the help.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Hey, at least you got another one on the way....just give us a yell when you get it mounted...We'll be here...

Remember, take your time and when you start getting frustrated with the car, just put the tools down and walk away for a while. That always helps, taking a short break.

 

[oino]

Hey, at least you got another one on the way....just give us a yell when you get it mounted...We'll be here...

Remember, take your time and when you start getting frustrated with the car, just put the tools down and walk away for a while. That always helps, taking a short break.

Time isn't on my side. I need to move that car out of my back yark by june 15th. Have to get he yard cleaned up before I move.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Time isn't on my side. I need to move that car out of my back yark by june 15th. Have to get he yard cleaned up before I move.

Understood, as soon as you get that regulator on, preset it before going under the car to mount it, crank the thing up and move it outta the back yard, get things ready for your move. Coming across 2 bad Regs one right behind the other is extremely nil, so your pressure will be fine.

Now, your fuel pressure part will be done, but if your carb is still guzzling at the needlevalves.....you'll have to star it, warm it a little. If it starts flooding on you, just get the motor warm.

Pull your aircleaner off and open your carb all the way and block the linkage open. Yes, its gonna squirt gas into a already flooded intake, but fuel evaporates very quickly. Give it about 15 to 20 minutes like this, flop the carb closed, put back on your aircleaner.

Unplug your fuelpump at the switch, or put a toggleswitch under the dash or possibly even a snap connector to unplug the wire. Crank the car with the pump dead and move it outta the yard. She should stay running for a minute or so, so you can drive it out. Same stategy for getting it into the uhaul or trailer, whatever. Plug it up or turn on the pump till the carb fills up or run it for a few minutes, kill the pump, and drive it onto the uhaul or trailer, then move it.

Hope things work out for you and your financial situation greatly improves. Hang tough....always gets harder before it gets better....if the carb
is still flooding later on, LOWER your floats all the way down. You'll be cutting off your gas flow essentually when the small amount of fuel in the carb starts to raise the float. Maybe this will slow the flooding down so you can move the car aound....though I'd recommend killing the fuelpump method. Lowering the floats just might give you enough run time to move the beast around to get all your stuff moved. This could possibly be a 2nd option for you if the first method doesn't allow you to run the motor long enough.........

 

[one finger john]

Understood, as soon as you get that regulator on, preset it before going under the car to mount it, crank the thing up and move it outta the back yard, get things ready for your move. Coming across 2 bad Regs one right behind the other is extremely nil, so your pressure will be fine.

Now, your fuel pressure part will be done, but if your carb is still guzzling at the needlevalves.....you'll have to star it, warm it a little. If it starts flooding on you, just get the motor warm.

Pull your aircleaner off and open your carb all the way and block the linkage open. Yes, its gonna squirt gas into a already flooded intake, but fuel evaporates very quickly. Give it about 15 to 20 minutes like this, flop the carb closed, put back on your aircleaner.

Unplug your fuelpump at the switch, or put a toggleswitch under the dash or possibly even a snap connector to unplug the wire. Crank the car with the pump dead and move it outta the yard. She should stay running for a minute or so, so you can drive it out. Same stategy for getting it into the uhaul or trailer, whatever. Plug it up or turn on the pump till the carb fills up or run it for a few minutes, kill the pump, and drive it onto the uhaul or trailer, then move it.

Hope things work out for you and your financial situation greatly improves. Hang tough....always gets harder before it gets better....if the carb
is still flooding later on, LOWER your floats all the way down. You'll be cutting off your gas flow essentually when the small amount of fuel in the carb starts to raise the float. Maybe this will slow the flooding down so you can move the car aound....though I'd recommend killing the fuelpump method. Lowering the floats just might give you enough run time to move the beast around to get all your stuff moved. This could possibly be a 2nd option for you if the first method doesn't allow you to run the motor long enough.........

As I am sure S.M. will tell you, any work on the carb (blocking throttle wide open, checking initial dead head fuel pressures, letting it dry out, etc. ) is done with the engine OFF. Paragraph 3 especially.

 

[one finger john]

Got that additional 10* advance screwed it to it? 10* - 12* BTDC initial. BTDC = Before Top Dead Center

 

[Screaming Metal]

Yea, what OFJ said!!!!!Don't you think hat would work? The thing that scares me is him trying to drive this thing into the back of A Uhaul truck, up ramps, with the carb like it is. If he can get the car out frontback the uhaul into a dip, get the car rolling downhill about 10 or 15 feet, 3 to 4 folks could push it into the UHaul.

We do Altereds like that all the time, knock he outta gear, 4 folks, push to get rolling good, when we hit the ramps, 2 rear folks drop their hands and start rolling on the slicks....walk it right into the trailers, behind the tractors....

 

[Screaming Metal]

Understood, as soon as you get that regulator on, preset it before going under the car to mount it, crank the thing up and move it outta the back yard, get things ready for your move. Coming across 2 bad Regs one right behind the other is extremely nil, so your pressure will be fine.

Now, your fuel pressure part will be done, but if your carb is still guzzling at the needlevalves.....you'll have to star it, warm it a little. If it starts flooding on you, just get the motor warm.

Pull your aircleaner off and open your carb all the way and block the linkage open. Yes, its gonna squirt gas into a already flooded intake, but fuel evaporates very quickly. Give it about 15 to 20 minutes like this, flop the carb closed, put back on your aircleaner.

Unplug your fuelpump at the switch, or put a toggleswitch under the dash or possibly even a snap connector to unplug the wire. Crank the car with the pump dead and move it outta the yard. She should stay running for a minute or so, so you can drive it out. Same stategy for getting it into the uhaul or trailer, whatever. Plug it up or turn on the pump till the carb fills up or run it for a few minutes, kill the pump, and drive it onto the uhaul or trailer, then move it.

Hope things work out for you and your financial situation greatly improves. Hang tough....always gets harder before it gets better....if the carb
is still flooding later on, LOWER your floats all the way down. You'll be cutting off your gas flow essentually when the small amount of fuel in the carb starts to raise the float. Maybe this will slow the flooding down so you can move the car aound....though I'd recommend killing the fuelpump method. Lowering the floats just might give you enough run time to move the beast around to get all your stuff moved. This could possibly be a 2nd option for you if the first method doesn't allow you to run the motor long enough.........

Yes, just to clafify....paragraph 3 is with the motor off!!!!! Don't ever try to block the throttle wide open with the motor running. AND DO NOT EVER START A MOTOR WITH THE THROTTLE BLOCKED WIDE OPEN! SEVERE ACCIDENTS CAN OCCURR AND THE 'BOOM' FACTOR IS WAY ON UP THERE! BEEN THERE, DONE THAT. THANK GOD FOR REV LIMITERS!

 

[Gerry]

I've no idea of what the vent pressure is, but I can't imagine the number is very high. Pressurizing the fuel tank would start forcing fuel through the tank pickup, as well as causing cap blow-off when removed and possible splash at the same time. I don't want any pressure in a fuel tank, period.

Hi
there is another way.
A couple of companies offer a remote tank vent. This is a small alloy valve that can be put in a breather pipe. Its a 2 way vent with roll over protection and retails at around 50 bucks. Advantage with this is that if you run a breather pipe from the top of the neck, the fuel cap can be air tight. I am going this way because I will have an exposed fuel tank and to stop any fuel sloshing out under acceleration/decelleration. It does mean I will have to put another pipe into the tank along with the 3 others, making 4 pipe to the tank.
Do a google search on tank vent and you should be able to find one.
Gerry

 

[oino]

Update: Got a new regulater installed yesturday. Did the adjustment before install. 7psi to start.
I was going to make more adjustments to lower it why the car was running. But the car died. My fuel pump stoped pumping. Makes noise. Pumps no gas.
Checked every thing I could think of. Even put more gas in the tank. Took the hoses off and blew through the pump, and I blew through all the hoses. No clogs. Damn pump just gave up pumping.

$47 for a new pump or $25, change some line around and put in a mechanical.
I went with mechanical. Got one from autozone that does 5 1/4 to 6 1/2 psi.
So far I tryed it without the regulater. Guage saying 6 1/2psi cool, But of course its flooding out, and the car wont start.
Tries to. But nothing.
I'll install the regulater when I get home today.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Update: Got a new regulater installed yesturday. Did the adjustment before install. 7psi to start.
I was going to make more adjustments to lower it why the car was running. But the car died. My fuel pump stoped pumping. Makes noise. Pumps no gas.
Checked every thing I could think of. Even put more gas in the tank. Took the hoses off and blew through the pump, and I blew through all the hoses. No clogs. Damn pump just gave up pumping.

$47 for a new pump or $25, change some line around and put in a mechanical.
I went with mechanical. Got one from autozone that does 5 1/4 to 6 1/2 psi.
So far I tryed it without the regulater. Guage saying 6 1/2psi cool, But of course its flooding out, and the car wont start.
Tries to. But nothing.
I'll install the regulater when I get home today.

Understood....will be standing by....Let me ask you, did you buy this car used? Or, did you build it? If pumps set up for a while, the electrics will give up the ghost early if the seals are allowed to dry out, and have bad/ dirty fuel run thru them....it was probably a combo of things. If the pump gave up, was making noises and not pumping....it might've pushed some trash into the float seats.

Once you get the reg. on, set it, sure you got some kinda filter to protect the pump, and all. Start her and let her idle and see if she floods. If she does, set your floats. If she still floods, theres probably crap in your seats not allowing your floats to seal off. Pull the bowles off, take the valves out and make sure no crud is in them.

If your fuel level was OK, and no fuel flooding out your sight holes on your bowls.... this issue is within the carb itself....if it is....I'll try and talk ya thru it..........

Will be here when your ready....I'm loading up my truck, gotta go by the track and pick up a tool I left behind....then I'll grab a bite to eat then I'm on the road for home.... Will check back later.....

 

[oino]

Understood....will be standing by....Let me ask you, did you buy this car used? Or, did you build it? If pumps set up for a while, the electrics will give up the ghost early if the seals are allowed to dry out, and have bad/ dirty fuel run thru them....it was probably a combo of things. If the pump gave up, was making noises and not pumping....it might've pushed some trash into the float seats.

Once you get the reg. on, set it, sure you got some kinda filter to protect the pump, and all. Start her and let her idle and see if she floods. If she does, set your floats. If she still floods, theres probably crap in your seats not allowing your floats to seal off. Pull the bowles off, take the valves out and make sure no crud is in them.

If your fuel level was OK, and no fuel flooding out your sight holes on your bowls.... this issue is within the carb itself....if it is....I'll try and talk ya thru it..........

Will be here when your ready....I'm loading up my truck, gotta go by the track and pick up a tool I left behind....then I'll grab a bite to eat then I'm on the road for home.... Will check back later.....

I build the car my self. Some spirit kit, other still swap meet, autoparts, and (hate to say it) ebay.

I'd love to move out of Cali and more easy. I have the money for it. But then I think if I stayed here and found a cheap enough place I could use the rest of my money for a new engine. :foottap: Will see what happends

 

[oino]

Regulater installed Woo hoo. :foottap: Runs ok at 2psi. No back fire. Just black smoke when I rev the engine up hi. Like 2500-3000 rpms.
I opened the sight screws and the fuel shoots out. Needles not turning off the fuel. I checked the needles. They look ok. I cleaned them off with some carb cleaner. The Floots look ok. They move up and down.
Anything else I should check before I remove the bowls?

 

[Screaming Metal]

Regulater installed Woo hoo. :foottap: Runs ok at 2psi. No back fire. Just black smoke when I rev the engine up hi. Like 2500-3000 rpms.
I opened the sight screws and the fuel shoots out. Needles not turning off the fuel. I checked the needles. They look ok. I cleaned them off with some carb cleaner. The Floots look ok. They move up and down.
Anything else I should check before I remove the bowls?

Ok, pull your float bowls, take the floats out, hold them up by your ear and shake the stew outta them. If you hear sloshing.....your floats are sinking. IF, you don't hear sloshing,you need to look at the needlevalves more closely. If you took them out and they looked good, and cleaned them, and your only putting 2 psi to them and they can't hold, need new needlevalves. See if any of your friends have any you can borrow? I believe once you get it to where its sealing off, 9/10's of the battle is won!

 

[Screaming Metal]

Now, are you 100% positive you got the needle and float assembly back together correctly? IF your positive, Call the parts place or go down to the parts place and see if they got any. If they don't, call one of the speed shops, they'll have some. Or call your friend where you got the carb from and see if he has some extras.

Anytime I come acress any holley carb thats going bye-bye, I always strip them out! There's alot of parts that fir diff. carbs....Go see if you can see any problems and I'm gonna check with some of my books here....will be back in a little.....

 

[Screaming Metal]

Just let me say this....there is a static ht. that you can set with the float bowl off. Its measured with the floatbowl upside down, you looking at the float.

What I want you to do is turn the floatbowl unside down, your looking at the float, the float adjuster and locknut are down, I want you to set it with the little cardboard tool that they had given you with the carb kit. If you don't have one, adjust the float so that the bottom of the float is level.

If you have the fittings that screw into the bowl, so that you can use a rubber hose on....(its a barbed fitting some folks use when they don't use the chrome dual feed line), tighten the hose and the fitting, and blow into it. With both the upside down and the float being level.....if the needlevalve is OK, you won't be able to blow past the needlevalve. IF YOU HEAR YOUR YOURSELF BLOWING PAST THE NEEDLEVALVE WITH THE BOWL UPSIDE DOWN AND THE WEIGHT OF THE FLOAT PRESSING ON IT......YOUR NV'S ARE LEAKING. Replace them!

Will be back in a little.........

 

[RPM]

While you got this cab apart put a new power valve in it.

 

[Screaming Metal]

OK where ya at? Whats going on? Come on, talk to me....Find anything? I'll give ya a few minutes....If ya busy, I'll check back in about a hour or so....

 

[oino]

LOL. Bad new is. My hand is on fire. Burned it on the exhaust. Good nows is. I removed the bowls. There was a little bit of crap in them. I cleaned that. Remove the floats. Floats good. You know the tab on the back of the float that pushes up on the needle. I bent that up a little on both floats. Put it all back togother. Started the car. RUNNING GOOD. :hooray:
Needles holding. Even uped the regulater to 4 1/2. Still holds. No flooding. Just sounds like I need to change the plugs now.
I get a mis here and there. No biggy. Smoke is gone too.

Thank you so much for the help.
Now I just need to fix the damn Steering problem and I'm ready to go.
If you got some insight on that. I'd love the help.
http://www.tbucketeers.com/topic/11103-steering-problem/page__st__20

Thank you again.