Engine too! More problems.

[Screaming Metal]

72s in the your primaries or larger? Did you check the power valve? Should be 6.5 stamped on it. Take it out and suck on it. I don't know which end, but it should hold a vacuum. If not, replace it. (Or is it blow?)
Do metering plates have power valves? Check for one back there (in the secondaries). Wonder why it would be tagged as a 650? Does the base plate (throttle plate) sit flat on the manifold w/no gasket?

John

Neighbor's brother in law? How much did you pay?

For s or b....I made a little rig.....from my mitey mite vaccuum tester that you can use to bleed your brakes with, hooked up with really short hose and use the little funnel connector, gotta cut a little gasket there....but its my sure fired way to check powervalves. Couple of strokes on the pump, if the valve is shot, won't hold a vaccuum at the diaphram.....

Watch Holley and everyone start selling them now! Ha!

Mikes right, 72 is about right....
Make sure you got fresh plugs.....you can clean them, but thats only in emergency's kinda thing. Champions when they're gas fouled....well....ya know....it should be like a diff. motor! Ha!

 

[oino]

I got the fittings and every thing I need to mount this regulater so I can get back to messing with the carb and timing.
Is it ok if I put the regulater under the body on the frame, next to the trans, above the trans cooler?

 

[Screaming Metal]

I got the fittings and every thing I need to mount this regulater so I can get back to messing with the carb and timing.
Is it ok if I put the regulater under the body on the frame, next to the trans, above the trans cooler?

WELLL, ya, you can put it anywhere you want between your pump and carb....may I ask, why under the car???? If you ever gotta adjust it, its gonna be kinda hard to get to. Plus usually, folks like seeing regulators and fuel pressure guages. If you mount it under the car like that, be sure to tuck it in close to the frame rails, you don't want to snatch it off at a speed bump or a piece of road debris...

Remember all that info, and take your time. 72's will be really close if not right on. Bump your timing up, too. And you were given the correct power valve selection, make sure all that is done. Make sure your float level is correct, mufflers on, plenty of fuel in your tank. Make sure you have no vaccuum leaks....you know....don't leave your vaccuum line off your dist. without shoving a screw in it or a plug.

Remember, take your time and do it right...

 

[oino]

I wanted to put it just in front of the firewall. But there isn't any room there to drill the holes for the bracket.
I'll still have access to adjust it with the use of an allen wrench.

 

[Screaming Metal]

All you gotta do is bend it around....just fasten it down good. Frame would be best, to the floor if need be, just attach it. Theres gotta be a hole somewhere. Later on, you'' have to get yourself a 90 Degree drii for close quarters work.

I'm pooped.....I'm closing the shop and going to bed...........Tomorrow

 

[RPM]

If you put the regulator under the car, it is going to be hard to adjust it, while the engine is running and watch the fuel pressure gauge all at the same time.

 

[Mike]

0-3310-3 is a 4160 Holley and uses a secondary metering plate. As such, it has no provision for a secondary power valve. The original 3310 (which is a desirable main body for limited carb racing classes, BTW ) used a secondary metering block with secondary jets, but it still did not have a secondary power valve.

The carb was fitted with a 6.5 power valve originally, but that is something you can play with after you get it running as it should. Depending on camshaft profile and engine condition, you may find it wants a power valve that opens at 8.5 or even sooner. Your vacuum gauge is your friend on that one. You won't be able to play with the power valve opening until you have what you know to be a good valve in place.

 

[Mike]

Watch Holley and everyone start selling them now! Ha!

Willy's Carburetors has the best power valve tester on the market, bar none. A bit pricey perhaps, but it is a very slick piece.



That little jewel is a very nice addition to the tool box, if you're doing a lot of Holleys. And it's amazing to discover how many brandy-new Holley power valves will not verify.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Willy's Carburetors has the best power valve tester on the market, bar none. A bit pricey perhaps, but it is a very slick piece.

[attachment=4241valvetester.jpg]

That little jewel is a very nice addition to the tool box, if you're doing a lot of Holleys. And it's amazing to discover how many brandy-new Holley power valves will not verify.

Yea Mike, same pump and guage, just a plastic tube with really small funnel at the end. Pop the valve in there and a couple of pumps and you know if you've got a good one. I always check them before I put them in and I'm like you, simply amazed at all the ones that don't pass........

 

[Screaming Metal]

OK there oino, hwere ya at buddy? Git the thing mounted yet? Bet your out ridin around in it, huh? Hows it running? Come on....whats the scoop?

Check back in a few hours, gotta go test a blower....

 

[one finger john]

OK there oino, hwere ya at buddy? Git the thing mounted yet? Bet your out ridin around in it, huh? Hows it running? Come on....whats the scoop?

Check back in a few hours, gotta go test a blower....

It's been raining today in L.A. Probably got the T all wrapped up and snuggy waiting for the Sun. Ya gotta remember that oino does not have a garage or work space to shield him and his ride from the elements. Just a large blue tarp.

John

 

[Screaming Metal]

It's been raining today in L.A. Probably got the T all wrapped up and snuggy waiting for the Sun. Ya gotta remember that oino does not have a garage or work space to shield him and his ride from the elements. Just a large blue tarp.

John

Well John, hope he does have it covered. Next place he gets, heck he needs to save a few hundred and spring for one of those 'Work Tents' they have in Great Northern Catalog. Give him some place to work on the autos. All the guys in the pits just use the rims with cement, pop the poles up and fasten them down to the weights and fasten them to the rigs and they're done. Those things are really well built for the price they pay.

Anyway, hopes he gets it straightened out....be waiting in the wings....this weekend gotta go on the road, someones gotta get all their ducks in a row and pull the pin on a really big nasty motor. Did something really diff. on the blower, gonna work the bugs out if it don't 'Boom' first...

 

[oino]

Ya sorry for the late reply. Only get an hour or two a day to work on it during the week and then with the damn rain.

I got it mounted. Wasn't easy. Took some skin off. Started the car and was making the ajustments and ran out of gas. Got some more. I'll try again later today.
Also why I was making ajustments found that I have an exhaust leak where the to pipe connects together . I'll tighten that up too.

It should be 5 - 6 psi at idle?

I should have looked this up before trying to mount it. They make a tool for every thing don't they.
Milescraft Right Angle Drill Accessory and Milescraft makes Stubby drill bits that would have been handy too.

 

[Screaming Metal]

On a stock motor and all....set it about 2.5 psi....see how she acts....if things in the carb won't seal @ 2.5, they sure as heck ain't gonna ddo it at 5.0! You can always turn it up. 2.5 and see if she'll sit there and idle clean. Set everything as everyone discussed, and see if you can rev it without it going fat.

One more note, keep a close eye on your oil pressure guage and fuel pressure.

 

[one finger john]

On a stock motor and all....set it about 2.5 psi....see how she acts....if things in the carb won't seal @ 2.5, they sure as heck ain't gonna ddo it at 5.0! You can always turn it up. 2.5 and see if she'll sit there and idle clean. Set everything as everyone discussed, and see if you can rev it without it going fat.

One more note, keep a close eye on your oil pressure guage and fuel pressure.

No mention of where the fuel filter is placed. Actually, no indication where the regulator is placed. Not being critical, fuel filter placed after the regulator will cut further into the set pressure. Also no DIRECT fuel pressure gauges in interior. Actually, no cowl mount direct fuel pressure gauges on an open roadster either.

 

[RPM]

No mention of where the fuel filter is placed. Actually, no indication where the regulator is placed. Not being critical, fuel filter placed after the regulator will cut further into the set pressure. Also no DIRECT fuel pressure gauges in interior. Actually, no cowl mount direct fuel pressure gauges on an open roadster either.

Probably not the best place to put a fuel pressure gauge, but you can see it as you drive.

 

[Mike]

No mention of where the fuel filter is placed. Actually, no indication where the regulator is placed. Not being critical, fuel filter placed after the regulator will cut further into the set pressure. Also no DIRECT fuel pressure gauges in interior. Actually, no cowl mount direct fuel pressure gauges on an open roadster either.

Yes, a small filter might show a small drop in pressure. However, ~if~ the gauge is mounted between the filter and the carburetor, then the filter is no longer part of the equation.

And just clarify, John is making a couple of very valid points about mounting a fuel pressure gauge. Never, never, ever, never mount a wet fuel pressure gauge inside the passenger compartment of any vehicle. Purchase an isolated gauge, if you need to have the gauge inside with you and your passengers.

Depending on how you intend to plumb things, a dual-inlet Holley can be plumbed in a way where a passenger could monitor a 1.5" pressure gauge at the secondary inlet. It requires a few specialized adapters to accept AN fittings, but can be very light-weight, very clean and very functional.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Ron, that looks sweet!!! Its a great place for the gauge. No worse than having it screwed into the feed line on the carb. Any yes Mike is conpletely right! No fuel, or Boost guages inside the Pass. Compartment!

Running alcohol, we can't see it burn, and if your ever in the pits, and you see a crewmember start jumping aroud swatting himself and rolling on the ground....fire extinguisher time! It will eat you up bacause you can't see it. You can add chemicals so it can now be seen, one of the best safety features they could've come up with.

Boost guages are dangerous. Ever seen a blower explosion? Usually it'll just pop a line....but of your running a pressure guage off your blower, your line is full of a very explosive gas, if you rev your motor, its under pressure. If the line ruptures and your smoking in your car, you can get burned. BADLY. And if a blower explosion does happen on the street....very rare, but it does happen....if the boost guage in inside....it'll spray you.

The Boost guage on a blown motor if you want to run one, is just like Ron's car, mount it on the motor, on the blower endplate or cover. I've even mounted them right outside of the windshield. Behind that glass our pretty safe.

On my car, I've got my fuel pressure, boost and my mechanical tack mounted like you Ron, though my mount doesn't look as cool as your does! Ha!

 

[oino]

I just out side making adjustments, trying to get it down to 2.5 when the adjustment screw came out. Then I remembered that the lowest this reglater goes is 4.5. After the screw came out the pressure went up to 6.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Hey there, go with the flo, try at 4.5 and see what happens....Can't hurt anything....Yep, some carbs will be fine at 5 psi, some say don't go above about 2.5....theres really no stardard all these folks (Carb Mfg'ers)have come up with. you know, like, 32 PSI for tires, 10w30 motor oil spec's, so on and so forth.

Screw the shaft back in, go for your lowest PSI on your guage. Alot of time they say the min in 5 psi, but when you hook yourguage to it and start out, USUally your about 1 1/2 psi below that. Anyway, try it and see. I know Mr.Gasket has one that starts @0 and ends @5, then theres all the Holleys, Mallorys, on & on....the end nowhere in sight.
Anyway...try it and see, won't hurt anything unless the needle valve isn't sealing off, which you'll have a flooding situation. But thats alot more than running rich.
Gotta be careful....I've seen folks fill their intakes up and they go to start and bend a rod. Whenever the motors not running, the pump needs to be off.

Ted, and the others are firm believers of having oilsentrys hooked up. No oilpressure, no fuel. I normally use a oilcan with some juice in it one the racecars, but on streeters, I have a primer switch, that has a 12v timer hooked up. Throw on the primer switch, the pump runs for 10 seconds....by that time, the motor is running. If you sit there talking to your friend who just came over their Bucket, and you haven't started yours in a couple of months, the running will time out after 10 seconds, but your fuel systen will be primed.You can pick these up at your electrical hardware supply place for about 10 bucks. Usually its a easy 2 wire hookup and can be mounted under your dash. Looks like a flasher relay that has a screw on the side for the timer adjustments....

Hope you get her running.....everything should be OK.....