old round fart
Well-Known Member
Is that a mustang steering box?
Finally getting off to a good start on my dream
- Thread starter kookie2007
- Start date
kookie2007
Member
It's an aftermarket Vega box orf
Tjbucket
Member
Your chassis looks strikingly similar to mine...Making a little progress. I am still mocking everything up and have the radiator, front shock towers, light stands and front end all put in place. I had to move that radiator tabs forward about an inch to clear the water pump on the 351. I moved the rear panhard bracket out of the kick area and fabricated a bracket that bolts to the 8" diff. Trying to make some room in the kick area, hoping to build a fuel tank that will take advantage of that added space for a couple more gallons in the tank. The shocks will bottom out before the panhard contacts the 3rd member so I don't think it's gonna be a problem. (at least that is what I'm hoping for). I may build a bump stop between the frame rails over the center of the axle housing just for some insurance to keep it out of the fuel tank if something goes wrong on the road. Bent up all the brake lines and secured them under the frame rails. Drilled holes for the wiring that will go inside the frame. Made up a rear "bumper" that will be where I am toying with the idea of some '59 Caddy tail lights and license plate. The rectangular tubing will be tucked under the back of the bed with the round tube ovals chromed up and tucked against the back of the bed.
The next step is gonna be set the body on and bolt it down so I can start working up the steering column. I'm a little worried about clearance around the bell housing for some steering u-joints. I may have to move the vega box a little bit outboard to make it clear.
I'm open to comments and suggestions.
kookie2007
Member
The frame was built by Spirit. I found it on CL and bought it not knowing if it would work for the engine/trans and body set up I was planning. It had never been used, but sat around quite a while so it had some surface rust. Turns out it was already set up for my engine/trans, but needed to be lengthened 4" between the master cylinder bracket and the rear kick to fit Spirit's extended body.
I was thinking of building from scratch, but after thinking about my limited arsenal of fabrication tools and somewhat limited experience with fiberglass and welding, I was afraid of getting things half done and getting discouraged. Figured I could take the manufactured parts and put them together with a few tweaks of my own to make it something I could call mine. The dream has always been to have one....but I wanted the satisfaction of "building" it myself. It's a compromise I am willing to live with.
I was thinking of building from scratch, but after thinking about my limited arsenal of fabrication tools and somewhat limited experience with fiberglass and welding, I was afraid of getting things half done and getting discouraged. Figured I could take the manufactured parts and put them together with a few tweaks of my own to make it something I could call mine. The dream has always been to have one....but I wanted the satisfaction of "building" it myself. It's a compromise I am willing to live with.
kookie2007
Member
kookie2007
Member
kookie2007
Member
I originally imagined it with MASSIVE tires on the back and found these where I got the front wheels and tires so I couldn't pass them up. I may go with some 14's in the back later on... but then I may have to cut a notch in my garage door to get it in next to my "65 F100. LOLI really like chassis shots and SHINY stuff....
Works for me.
Any chance you can put another 6" on each rear tyre????
kookie2007
Member
I cut a piece of 1/2" plywood the shape of the dash, got the steering column and drop where I wanted it while the plywood was clamped in place. Cut a piece of 1-1/2" aluminum angle about 4" long and drilled it for the column drop bolts and a couple holes for some 1/4" bolts on the other side of the angle. Bolted the angle to the column drop and marked the plywood for a couple holes. Took everything back out, drilled the holes in the plywood and bolted the angle to the plywood and tightened them down until the head of the bolt sucked into the plywood making it's own hex shaped "countersink" to keep them from spinning. I took some liquid nails polyurethane adhesive and glued the plywood to the back of the dash and clamped it in place overnight. Repeated the process for some angles on a piece of 3/4" plywood on the inside of the firewall. Cut some 1" aluminum bar stock and bent it into shape for a couple of braces on each end of the dash. It took all the "flex" out of the fiberglass dash and doubles as a column support. I will glass all that plywood into place when I take the body back off and turn it upside down so I can do it standing up.
Tjbucket
Member
Nice and simple.....thanks. I am a bit too far to go that route, and now need to come up with a similar design that does not include anchoring into dash.
I cut a piece of 1/2" plywood the shape of the dash, got the steering column and drop where I wanted it while the plywood was clamped in place. Cut a piece of 1-1/2" aluminum angle about 4" long and drilled it for the column drop bolts and a couple holes for some 1/4" bolts on the other side of the angle. Bolted the angle to the column drop and marked the plywood for a couple holes. Took everything back out, drilled the holes in the plywood and bolted the angle to the plywood and tightened them down until the head of the bolt sucked into the plywood making it's own hex shaped "countersink" to keep them from spinning. I took some liquid nails polyurethane adhesive and glued the plywood to the back of the dash and clamped it in place overnight. Repeated the process for some angles on a piece of 3/4" plywood on the inside of the firewall. Cut some 1" aluminum bar stock and bent it into shape for a couple of braces on each end of the dash. It took all the "flex" out of the fiberglass dash and doubles as a column support. I will glass all that plywood into place when I take the body back off and turn it upside down so I can do it standing up.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
I cut a piece of 1/2" plywood the shape of the dash, got the steering column and drop where I wanted it while the plywood was clamped in place. Cut a piece of 1-1/2" aluminum angle about 4" long and drilled it for the column drop bolts and a couple holes for some 1/4" bolts on the other side of the angle. Bolted the angle to the column drop and marked the plywood for a couple holes. Took everything back out, drilled the holes in the plywood and bolted the angle to the plywood and tightened them down until the head of the bolt sucked into the plywood making it's own hex shaped "countersink" to keep them from spinning. I took some liquid nails polyurethane adhesive and glued the plywood to the back of the dash and clamped it in place overnight. Repeated the process for some angles on a piece of 3/4" plywood on the inside of the firewall. Cut some 1" aluminum bar stock and bent it into shape for a couple of braces on each end of the dash. It took all the "flex" out of the fiberglass dash and doubles as a column support. I will glass all that plywood into place when I take the body back off and turn it upside down so I can do it standing up.
VERY nicely done! Simple and effective. I love it!
John Gardner
Member
Looks great!!
kookie2007
Member
Finished building my electrical panel today. I have everything set up so that I can land each wire from 5 separate looms that will go to the right front, left front, engine/trans areas, dash, and rear. I'm using a 4 position headlight switch from Ron Francis that will make it possible to use the built in LED park lights in my headlights for both park lights and signals. I used 2 relays (one for each front park light) so that they lights will work with the turn signals (normally closed circuit) when driving and will work for park lights (normally open circuit) if I want to use them while parked. The switch also has a position for low beams and one for high beams. Relays for the fan and fuel pump are wired to fused terminal on the panel that will be powered on with the ignition swtich in the run position. The high amp side of the headlights, fan, and fuel pump relays are run through 30A breakers. I'm hoping that this arrangement will make it easier to rewire everything after the intial build and tear down for paint.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Very nicely done! Extra points for the wiring panel.
kookie2007
Member
Just a few pics mostly after the hard part was done. Basically, I got some smaller rectangular tubing and some flat stock and stacked and welded pieces on the top and side of the smaller tubing to make it a snug fit inside the frame, drilled holes in the frame for plug welds and slid the whole thing together and started welding. I made the cuts with my cut-off saw by supporting the saw on a low table and using a hydraulic table I have to lower the frame onto the saw and clamped in place.
I used 2" x 3" angle to hold the frame straight and took my time welding to keep things from warping. Alternated sides and flipped it over a couple times. I tack welded the white 1-1/2" angle on there before I cut it to hold the back part of the frame from racking while it was apart. The insert I made extended about 7" into each end of the splice.
I used 2" x 3" angle to hold the frame straight and took my time welding to keep things from warping. Alternated sides and flipped it over a couple times. I tack welded the white 1-1/2" angle on there before I cut it to hold the back part of the frame from racking while it was apart. The insert I made extended about 7" into each end of the splice.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
Is the frame tapered?
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