Flathead installation?

[Fourdy]

Really hoping someone can help with info for installing a flaty with 200-4R in my 24 T cpe. I have it blocked in but having trouble trying to decide how high or low the engine should be. Actually trying to figure out if the center dump manifolds will work.

Sure could use some pics if anyone has any or direct me to a site.

Thanks so much,

Fourdy


fourdy's photos and albums on webshots

 

[Youngster]

Sorry, I missed this post 'til now. With a body as nice as this one I would try to set the engine so as to keep the floor as flat as possible. I guess that would be the determining factor. As a rule of thumb, a flatty is usually set so a pair of the water pumps from a '49 to '53 pickup, and their mounts, are even with the top of the frame rail. To postion the mounts, center the mounting hole 4-1/2" measured from the center of the radiator mounting hole. The distance between the pump mounts should be 20". that engine bay is short so you want to get the motor as far forward as possible. You're going to have to do some firewall cutting, but you want to keep that at a minimum so you don't loose any more foot room than you have to.

I think this is what you're looking for. If it's not PM me and we'll work it out.

Ron

 

[Youngster]

Wow! Really had to dig to find this thread again.

Fourdy, is that what you were looking for?

Ron

 

[Fourdy]

Youngster,

Yes, I appreciate your info. I am maintaining the use of fenders and running boards in their original location so it becomes a much bigger headache.

If I lower the engine, I can't seem to find a way to get exhaust headers on it and miss the frame. I looked at a lot of the T pics on this forum and see that nearly everyone had to raise the engine. By moving up I can then move forward a little more and it won't really take too much room out of the inside of the car. I bought the car with frame that had a spring behind axle mounted to the front of the frame like most of yours. I had to move it back 10" to get the wheel/fender alignment correct.

I will probably have to fabricate my own exhaust so I can go down under the car and also get a vega box in.

I don't get discouraged about all this but look at it as a challenge to keep my gray matter working. I do find myself sitting on a stool looking at it and just "figurin'" things out.

I really appreciate the forum by the way.

Fourdy

 

[Youngster]

After studding you pictures, if it were me, I would build a new frame. Here's the thing. This car Is way to nice to make compromises on. The frame you have needs to be modified to build the car you want. By the time you do that, you could have built one that will have all the features you want.

That front axle is going to give you clearance problems. With the straight section in the middle, the U-bolts holding the front spring to the cross member are going to hit it. The only way to eliminate this would be to raise the front cross member and that is going to cause a huge gap between the top of the front tire and the fender. An I beam axle has the smile in it for this reason.

The rear of the frame has way more kick in it than you need. The stock T rear cross member has a 3" or so rise in it. When you run coil overs and use a flat cross member, you can mount the shocks lower on the frame to lower the back of the car. This makes it easier to set up the rear body mount and gives you so trunk space. One thing Henry didn't do was to provide support for the rear of the body. Some times you will find stress cracks at the front of the turtle deck area. When you build a new frame, you can extend the side rails back to pick up the rear of the deck.

I would think you would be able to get enough for the current frame to off set the cost of materials for the new frame and then some. These are just my thoughts on what I would do for that fabulous coupe.

ron

 

[LumenAl]

Man that is some nice original Henry Tin... Nice find!

 

[Flat-T]

I set the flathead in my T-Bucket so that the bottom of the engine mount donuts are even with the top of the frame. Here is a picture taken at the 2008 Buckethead Bash which might help.

Flat-T

 

[Youngster]

Great T Flat T. I saw the pictures from the Bash with it in them. I will die with the sound of a flathead starter when you hit the botton my head. Nothin' sweeter!!

Ron

 

[Fourdy]

Flat T -
Thanks for the pic. I have decided that the only way I can get exhausts on my T is to go out OVER the frame as you did. I could make some custom headers but then wouldn't be able to mount the vega box. I am going to be full fendered so of course my engine bay is much shorter.

Probably come out then down through a hole in the back of the front fender then back under the running board splash panel. I will look for more of your pics on here but if not, how about some more of your engine bay.

Nice T by the way.

Thanks,

Fourdy

 

[joehazel]

I have a flathead in my 23 mated to a GM Turbo 350 and 10 bolt GM rear. I have center dump headers and the muffler shop will route the exhaust underneath to go down the bottom of the frame rail and exit behind the rear hairpins. It is the first flathead I have built since high school in 1960. I will try to get some pictures loaded soon.

 

[San Diego T]

My e-mail is dlmahar@pacbell.net. Send me a line and I will send you photos of my 1937 flathead in my 23 T. Your T looks just like mine. I had to have custom made headers and pipes made. You can try RED'S Headers in California. He makes headers, pipes for flatheads only.