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Fuel cell return line

choppinczech

Well-Known Member
Do I need one for a carbed set up?
 
Blanket answer......no.

More accurate answer.....maybe.

If you're running a stock type mechanical fuel pump and holley carb, probably not, if you're running 6 Strombergs and
an electric pump, a return line type regulator might be needed.
 
You don't "need" one, but it may be beneficial to ease vapor lock, keep the fuel cooler, and it allows more stable fuel pressure due to reducing pressure build up, depending on pump type.
 
You don't "need" one, but it may be beneficial to ease vapor lock, keep the fuel cooler, and it allows more stable fuel pressure due to reducing pressure build up, depending on pump type.

Hmmm.... I am running my exhaust under the car and out the back. The fuel line (or lines) will be going down the inside of the frame rail, not very far from the exhaust. Maybe vapor lock would be a problem.
 
Whatcha call not very far? If you have 3 or 4 inches, that should work. Air moving around that area, should keep them cool. Seems like most problems are around header areas with enclosed engines.
 
Hmmm.... I am running my exhaust under the car and out the back. The fuel line (or lines) will be going down the inside of the frame rail, not very far from the exhaust. Maybe vapor lock would be a problem.

Actually, because I have a 90° brake assembly under my dash, I'm already running my rear brake line straight down the center of my trans tunnel, drive shaft tunnel and exiting the the rear of the body. It's all covered by my center console. Maybe I'll do the same thing with the fuel line. From the rear of the body, down the drive shaft and trans tunnel. Up and out the firewall with a bulkhead fitting.
 
Actually, because I have a 90° brake assembly under my dash, I'm already running my rear brake line straight down the center of my trans tunnel, drive shaft tunnel and exiting the the rear of the body. It's all covered by my center console. Maybe I'll do the same thing with the fuel line. From the rear of the body, down the drive shaft and trans tunnel. Up and out the firewall with a bulkhead fitting.
Just a thought, I am considering running the lines inside one frame rail, and the wires in the other... A couple strategic holes, and everything is secure and tidy... Again still thinking it through. Fastening them is the part I haven't worked out just yet. Wires, no problem, just run a soft conduit to prevent chafing and rattle. I prefer fuel and brake lines to be secure. I suppose some planning and pre positioned clamps on the lines could be used to fasten them, it would be a challenging install. That's why we call them custom!
 
Some type of pumps require a return line, to 'cool' them....they are designed to circulate and achieve a certain pressure, not pump agianst a blocked flow system. As the others have said, a universal 'no', you should not need one unless your using something special....or have special needs....
 
I'm mocking up my fuel tank. I guess I'll have it made with a return and cap it if I end up not needing it.

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Waiting to see what this is gonna cost me. Uhgggg!
 
FWIW , I'd never run fuel or brake lines inside [enclosed] a frame rail , it'd be impossible to inspect them....also , putting them in the trans. tunnel , next to a prop shaft/u-joints , that sometimes break, could really spoil your day ...
dave
 
I'm mocking up my fuel tank. I guess I'll have it made with a return and cap it if I end up not needing it.

View attachment 11903
View attachment 11904
View attachment 11905


Waiting to see what this is gonna cost me. Uhgggg!

Not much if you do it yourself, and I know you can.


If you plan on ever running fuel injection, you may want to install baffles, or a sump.

Always a good thing when dealing with liquids!!

FWIW , I'd never run fuel or brake lines inside [enclosed] a frame rail , it'd be impossible to inspect them....also , putting them in the trans. tunnel , next to a prop shaft/u-joints , that sometimes break, could really spoil your day ...
dave

NEVER run fuel and brake lines in an enclosed space! PERIOD. Have seen cars go BOOM from this when they had a leak and an electrical short [wires in frame also] at the same time. These are not airplanes. KISS is the best method.
Do you remember when some Fords had the plastic tanks right above the drive shaft and you had to take the shaft out before you could take the tank out? Ford's BETTER idea.
 
Not much if you do it yourself, and I know you can.




Always a good thing when dealing with liquids!!



NEVER run fuel and brake lines in an enclosed space! PERIOD. Have seen cars go BOOM from this when they had a leak and an electrical short [wires in frame also] at the same time. These are not airplanes. KISS is the best method.
Do you remember when some Fords had the plastic tanks right above the drive shaft and you had to take the shaft out before you could take the tank out? Ford's BETTER idea.
I restored a little fiat a few years back, just a driver, but the fuel lines run right down the inside of the drivers rocker, under the carpet, as do the brake lines on the other side. The battery cables run from the trunk though the center of the car, inside. That's how it was built. I see your point about safety, but if there isn't electric in the same rail, it's like a conduit. I wouldn't have any reservations at all doing it personally. I would use premium line with no splices or connections inside and make sure it is clamped so it couldn't rub and get damaged. As long as it has a couple inspection and weep holes to avoid condensation build up and allow for inspection and ventilation. I am not trying to start an arguement, just my thoughts. It wouldn't be my first choise for several reasons, but if pressed for space, or to protect them, I think it would be safer than running it through the body. I agree with the KISS theory! I actually have pleanty of room to run the lines along the inside of the frame rails under the floor, no problem, and will likely run the electric inside them. Ford isn't the only ones with brainiacs designing stuff. I have spent many hours laying under GM stuff removing the entire exhaust, differential, shields, etc to change a stupid fuel pump. It would be real simple to put an inspection panel in the trunk for access.... I still have a '74 ford wrecker and a '65 grain truck that I use to move stuff around the farm, and they have the tank behind the seat. I think about it sometimes...
 
I won't do the fuel line inside the body.

But for the brake lines, in my case, my master cylinder inside my body, under my cowl behind the dash. So the brake lines have to exit the body somewhere. The front right and left lines will each exit through their own bulkhead fittings where the firewall meets the frame rails.

The line for the rear will run from the proportioning valve, down the inside of the firewall, down the length of the trans tunnel and driveshaft tunnel (inside the car) and exit the rear at the center of the body.

Rear Line.jpg
 
I won't do the fuel line inside the body.

But for the brake lines, in my case, my master cylinder inside my body, under my cowl behind the dash. So the brake lines have to exit the body somewhere. The front right and left lines will each exit through their own bulkhead fittings where the firewall meets the frame rails.

The line for the rear will run from the proportioning valve, down the inside of the firewall, down the length of the trans tunnel and driveshaft tunnel (inside the car) and exit the rear at the center of the body.

View attachment 11919
Bottom line, we are talking about open wheel fiberglass and wood bodied cars here. A fuel fire, no matter where it originates, is not good. if you keep the fuel away from sources of ignition and contact, should be ok with proper maintenance. You could say the lines are safer under, but more likely to get damage from road hazard. 6 one way, half a dozen the other.... Common sense and forethought goes a long way, imho.
 
Originally I'd planned on running the wiring to the rear of the car through the frame. Lately I've been giving the wiring some thought and one of my changes in plans is to use 2 bulkhead connectors instead of one...the 2nd being on the rear of the body. This will keep wiring completely isolated from the brake and fuel lines...which will be isolated from each other by running on the inboard sides of separate frame rails.
 

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