Also, should a diaphram let go, you'll dilute your crankcase oil with gas....
I just don't use them for that fact, the major one being I can prime the fuel system with flip of switch without starting the motor.
I've seen the oil dilution thing happen twice with mech pumps, maybe that's unusual, but I have witnessed it.
I like being able to prime without grinding on the starter too. My cars sit for too long and usually have dry float bowls.
I actually had a mech pump on my 46 coupe. It failed and was a bear to change due to it's close proximity to the frame. Went to an electric pump due to the fact that it's easier to get to if it goes out on the road.
Yea Mike, I ruined a perfectly good motor because of a bad fuel pump like that. It wasn't a cheap motor either, I wound up spinning some rod bearings....screwed up a good forged crank and block to boot....
Well SM, my thoughts on that is if it's a racing engine, you should check the oil and sniff it for such failures before they happen after every run On a part time drag racer it should also be done more frequently, especially when in use. Every day drivers don't usually get checked for most are not mechanically inclined.
HR46, my thoughts on a float bowl being dry, get another carb or fix that one. It too will supply fuel to the engine and dilute the oil if they don't hold fuel for an extended period of time and leak into the intake.
On a T-Bucket, if you can't smell gasoline fumes if the pump is bad and blowing out the vent hole or going into the engine, Then you smoke too much like me and the old snooter aint working right anymore.
HR46, my thoughts on a float bowl being dry, get another carb or fix that one. It too will supply fuel to the engine and dilute the oil if they don't hold fuel for an extended period of time and leak into the intake.
My carbs don't leak, either to the outside or the inside; if they do I fix them! Gas just seems to evaporate a lot faster now than in the past. I may go several weeks without being able to fool with one of my cars.
Well, hahaha....the E85 evaporates alot faster than regular gasoline, not to mention collects water like a sponge....
Its got so bad here I order a 55 gallon barrel of real gas to keep on hand around to run my own personal stuff on....
If properly tuned, E85 is a good hi-performance fuel. E85 has well over 100 octane and works beautifully in boosted motors built to run on it. The problem with fuels with ethanol in them is that most cars aren't designed to run on them. The alcohol attracts or absorbs water, that in turn corrodes parts. There are a few stations around here that still sell real gas, and even some of the big chains are starting to offer it as an option. When I had vintage motorcycles, they always got real gas. When you have 4 carbs with very small jets and passages, corrosion is not an option.
Yes, TTB is correct. While the E85 is corrosive, and nasty for vintage motors, such as all the ones we run, there are carbs designed to run on it, as well as EFI's.
I setup the BBF I'm running with the New Holley TBI system to run on the Mess.
BUT, since we're gonna have to put up with Goverment shoving it down our throats since they KNOW BEST, (we're too stupid in their eyes) I setup mine to run it. The new bikes are EFI's and are E85 compatible. The EFI systems are capable of varying the timing required to run E85. And since they vary the timing and motor parameters, it'll adjust for altitude, or going across deserts.... which will be a plus.
I just want to say this....I absolutely HATE E85. I don't think its necessary nor wanted. YES, its a good Racing Fuel and a Hi-perf. fuel if you build a motor around it. For fuel mileage, no, you have to burn too much of it, which offsets it. Now, if you adjust timing and other motor parameters is pretty good....
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