getting close on the setup

[Brucer]

so far ive placed the engine and transmission 3 times now, and i think i hit the sweet spot this time.. steeringbox lines up with the rear radius rod mount. steeringbox isnt mounted yet ... i will mount it tomorrow..

i have a gap of about 5 1/2 inches from the front crossbar to the radiator,and
4 1/2 inches between the radiator and waterpump snout. i might move the radiator forward another 1/2 inch, need to get an electric fan to make sure first.. but that would even out those 2 measurments.

the lights are where i'm debating.. what you guys think.. before radiator, even with it, or a lil behind? i kinda like them where they are, just in front of the radiator.. i'm going to cut about 2 inches out of the headlight posts at some point also.

I'm gonna roll it out of the garage tomorrow and get a couple good looks at a full side view, just to make sure i like where everything is.

i dont have any kind of bed yet but i know a 16 inch bed would be just about an inch past the back of the frame, and a 20inch bed will hang out past the back of the frame.. and i might even go to a 24inch bed, i have to build a bed anyways so no telling what it'll end up.. i want to make it somewhat like a model A bed thats cut somewhat in half..it'll be steel just like the rest of the car..

I have 45 1/2 inch long front hairpins, 48inch between rod end centers and 42inch rear hairpins, 45 1/2 between centers... i think i'm going to go a little longer on the rear pins to add an inch to the wheelbase, and it will push the tires back a tad..

I still have to decide which rearend i want to use, i have a 9inch from an early model bronco, and or a frankland quickchange. i want to use the frankland unless i have to modify the rear of the chassis, if i have to modify the chassis to clear the quickchange i'm gonna have to think real hard to find a reason not to use the 9inch at that point.. we'll see..

BOTH MY DOORS OPEN

 

[Brucer]

another thing is that i would love to channel the body, but doing that means i have to do something with the rear hairpins, either maybe go to the type of radius rod where the top bar is straight, but that would still be very close to hitting towards the back of the body..
or i would have to come up with some kind of 4 bar type setup, maybe having the lower bar run where the rear radius rod mount is and then put 2 short bars inside the framerails..

 

[jjsticks]

brother that looks great!.keep the headlight right there perfect.is that a steel body?jj

 

[putz]

Looking really good at this point you must really have the T bucket itch it looks like you where up all night by the times of your posts.

 

[Youngster]

Wow man, what a great project!! Luv's those '27 me self!!

Just some random thoughts for ya. On the headlights, I like to set mine up so the trimring on the headlight is even with the front of the radiator shell. But since you have that 4 to 5 inches in front of the radiator you could add to the balance by moving the froward an inch and a half or so. I personally never cared for those aluminum headlight stands. The lights are to high. I'm sure RPM would cut out just what you want.

Looks like you have a low radiator shell, pre-'23. if you could find a high shell, '24 thru '27, you wouldn't need to use that spacer. If nothing else it's easy to lengthen that shell the 1 1/2".

The Franklin quickie is an awesome piece. If you are building what will become a high mileage car, give some thought to that 9", much more servicable.

On channeling the body. I ran into the same problem with hairpin clearance on my '27. I also came up with the same solution you did. I called RPM and he made up a pair of his hairpins for mine. If you go this way and still have an issue, you could channel the body just 2"". This would allow you to use the radiator shell without modification too.

Now for the sweet part, the pick-up box. I have posted pics of the one I made from scratch. It's not that hard to do. Mine is a bit smaller than Ole Henrys. I would only be to happy to walk you through building your own box if you like. I have a repo tailgate and the rear U-channel that I have no use for. These are the most difficult part to make from scratch. As for the lenght of the box, set your rear end where you want it. If you have say, 4" between the back of your body and the tire, add the heigth of the tire and the 4" plus another 4" and you have the lengrh of a bed that will maintain a great balance. JMO

I will certainly be waiting and watching for your up dates.

Ron

 

[Brucer]

yep its a steel body, i work 2nd shift and i have what one would call a wierd sleep pattern, if you can call it a pattern at all..

 

[Brucer]

On channeling the body. I ran into the same problem with hairpin clearance on my '27. I also came up with the same solution you did. I called RPM and he made up a pair of his hairpins for mine. If you go this way and still have an issue, you could channel the body just 2"". This would allow you to use the radiator shell without modification too.

Now for the sweet part, the pick-up box. I have posted pics of the one I made from scratch. It's not that hard to do. Mine is a bit smaller than Ole Henrys. I would only be to happy to walk you through building your own box if you like. I have a repo tailgate and the rear U-channel that I have no use for. These are the most difficult part to make from scratch. As for the lenght of the box, set your rear end where you want it. If you have say, 4" between the back of your body and the tire, add the heigth of the tire and the 4" plus another 4" and you have the lengrh of a bed that will maintain a great balance. JMO

Ron

Ron on the hairpins I think you helped me out on that. i'm definetly channeling 2inches now, cause that proportions the body with the radiator shell..

you probably remember bringing up the topic of the model A bed before, and ive got all kinds of drawings and dimensions that i've gotten here, and on the hamb.. i'll be in contact with you on the tailgate and the u channel, i've already considered buying a tailgate but didnt know exactly how wide i wanted to go, so was kind of putting it off, but i guess i'll be needing it soon..

 

[Youngster]

Bruce i just anaswered your pm. I also have some hat channel for making the front stake pockets. $10 more and i'll put tone in the box.

Between the tailgate and the u-channel, you will be able to work out most of your diamentions. Do you have a bead roller? If you have access to a breakpress you will bw able to fab the rest of the parts. A drop gate bender will work too but the breakpress will give you more consistant angles. I used 16ga. for mine. that's lighter than stock but then again I'm not going to be hauling much of anything in it. Any idea of what you'll be using for the bed floor? Whatever you use, get it before you start as some of the panels will need to have the thickness taken into account.

Ron

 

[rooster57]

Hey brucer i noticed something. So i went out and looked at my car ,and have you set your head on the drivers side yet . My exhaust tube is about 1.5 inches off the steering box. and it looks like your motor is about 1.5 inches farther back than mine . just an observation.

 

[putz]

I think on the bed floor metal strips with wood look awesome.I think there are alot of bed strip kits available.

 

[Brucer]

Hey brucer i noticed something. So i went out and looked at my car ,and have you set your head on the drivers side yet . My exhaust tube is about 1.5 inches off the steering box. and it looks like your motor is about 1.5 inches farther back than mine . just an observation.

rooster i should be good .. i figured in about an inch.. and i can play with my steering box mount a lil and get probably another 1/4 inch or so, and i can fudge the box back a little also if i need to.. my engine is probably a little higher than yours, i raised it a 1/2 inch.

 

[Brucer]

Bruce i just anaswered your pm. I also have some hat channel for making the front stake pockets. $10 more and i'll put tone in the box.

Between the tailgate and the u-channel, you will be able to work out most of your diamentions. Do you have a bead roller? If you have access to a breakpress you will bw able to fab the rest of the parts. A drop gate bender will work too but the breakpress will give you more consistant angles. I used 16ga. for mine. that's lighter than stock but then again I'm not going to be hauling much of anything in it. Any idea of what you'll be using for the bed floor? Whatever you use, get it before you start as some of the panels will need to have the thickness taken into account.

Ron

Got the sheetmetal tools covered. a friend, that i went to high school with runs a sheetmetal shop here in town. Dunno about the bed floor material, havent got that far yet . ADD the Hat channel for the front stake pockets

 

[rooster57]

Cool i looked at it and from this angle it looked close. Man it looks great so far cant wait till you are runnin and rollin.