Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

got a new problem

s19243h

Member
took the cyl head to the machine shop to get a new rocker stud put in the guy called me and said my head is cracked on number 3 the stud is broke on number5 he said its about 2" long and pitted so it had to be leaking coolant for a while i cant believe it this car drove a 1000 miles this year to shows and everytime before a show i would check all my fluides and never once did i have to add coolant any way i have a freind who has a set of heads he said i could use for the rest of the summer the problem is the casting number ends in 339 wich shows 307,350 head my engine is a 85 305 ho motor out of a camaro casting number 416 can i use these heads on a 305? if i find another 305 head with a different casting number can i use it what do i do HELP!
 
took the cyl head to the machine shop to get a new rocker stud put in the guy called me and said my head is cracked on number 3 the stud is broke on number5 he said its about 2" long and pitted so it had to be leaking coolant for a while i cant believe it this car drove a 1000 miles this year to shows and everytime before a show i would check all my fluides and never once did i have to add coolant any way i have a freind who has a set of heads he said i could use for the rest of the summer the problem is the casting number ends in 339 wich shows 307,350 head my engine is a 85 305 ho motor out of a camaro casting number 416 can i use these heads on a 305? if i find another 305 head with a different casting number can i use it what do i do HELP!


ALSO THE 339 HEADS ARE75CC and mine are 58 cc im not looking for performance i just want to cruise
 
ALSO THE 339 HEADS ARE75CC and mine are 58 cc im not looking for performance i just want to cruise


Going from a 58 cc to a 75 cc head would drop the compression ratio WAY TOO much. I don't think you would be happy with that at all. It would loose a lot of power.


If those cracks in the rocker stud bosses are not very long they can be milled down past the crack and then tapped and a screw in stud installed.

The real question is what caused all this, and what is it going to take to keep it from happening again, and what about the other head?
 
Being a 305 casting, it's dollars to dumplings the other head is cracked, as well. Show me a 305 head with over 35,000 miles that isn't cracked.

I generally don't recommend companies to people, because it seems as if that is the one time a problem crops up and it leaves me looking bad. But, if you're looking for a set of heads that will not break the bank, call either Jimmy or Russ at Aerohead and order a pair of heads with the 65 CC chambers and the 1.940 X 1.500 valves. Yes, you're going to give up the best part of .8 of a point of compression, but for a cruiser, you should be able to live with it. And for $399.00, your problems will go away. Stainless valves, screw-in studs, bronze guides, springs to handle .525 lift with machined retainer and locks, milled decks and a three-angle valve job right out of the box. You're going to be hard-pressed to find a better deal, anywhere. Buy 'em, unpack 'em, wash 'em and bolt 'em on.

Aerohead is a division of Indy Cylinder Head and those guys have been cranking out cylinder heads for more years than some of you have been alive. Both Russ and Jim are super people to work with, but be forewarned of one thing - they know the cylinder head business, inside and out, so don't fall into the trap of trying to tell them their business. They'll drop you like a hot potato.

If you want to hear an earful of tall tales, tell Jim it was Mike that worked up at K-Motion who told you to call. And then, don't believe a word you hear from that point on. :rofl: Seriously, if you do call, tell him I said howdy. This time of year, he'll be running his tail off, but I always loved when he would call me in the winter months. Neither of us would be busy and he would start telling war stories that would have me in stitches.

I really enjoy my work, partly because I don't have a clock to watch and usually end up working just a couple hours a day. Back in January, Russ offered me a job and it knocked me out of my chair. I have a lot of respect for the man and were it not the job would require a 155 mile round-trip each day, I would have jumped all over the opportunity. Having the chance to work with and learn from someone of his caliber would have lured me right back into 40-hour weeks. Indy Cylinder Head and Aerohead definitely get five stars, two thumbs up and my certified seal of approval. :thumb: :thumb:
 

Going from a 58 cc to a 75 cc head would drop the compression ratio WAY TOO much. I don't think you would be happy with that at all. It would loose a lot of power.


If those cracks in the rocker stud bosses are not very long they can be milled down past the crack and then tapped and a screw in stud installed.

The real question is what caused all this, and what is it going to take to keep it from happening again, and what about the other head?

Not sure about the other head didnt even touch it not sure were the crack is havent seen the head yet suppose to be here today dont think its the stud boss if he said it was leaking coolant
 
Not sure about the other head didnt even touch it not sure were the crack is havent seen the head yet suppose to be here today dont think its the stud boss if he said it was leaking coolant
Glenn, we posted atop one another. See the post above your's.

I'm not a betting man, but I'm betting the other crack is leading from a valve seat to a coolant hole in the deck. And if a stud boss is cracked vertically, it can be cracked into water.
 
found a head from a buddy that has a yard for 50 bucks changing the valve springs and slapping it on it will be here tomarrow
 
Glenn, we posted atop one another. See the post above your's.

I'm not a betting man, but I'm betting the other crack is leading from a valve seat to a coolant hole in the deck. And if a stud boss is cracked vertically, it can be cracked into water.


WAIT TILL THE HEAD GETS HERE ILL TAKE PICS THEN WE BOTH CAN SEE WERE ITS CRACKED I CANT BELIEVE ITS CRACKED IT NEVER LEAKED COOLANT
 
WAIT TILL THE HEAD GETS HERE ILL TAKE PICS THEN WE BOTH CAN SEE WERE ITS CRACKED I CANT BELIEVE ITS CRACKED IT NEVER LEAKED COOLANT


heres the pics
 

Attachments

  • mail.jpg
    mail.jpg
    4.8 KB · Views: 120
  • mail111.jpg
    mail111.jpg
    5.1 KB · Views: 116
Those 305 heads were very prone to cracking. Had an 83 Z28 with a HO 305. What a piece of crap that was. Ended up building a strong 350 and put in it. If you ended up replacing it with the same type head chances are this one will crack also. I'd go with some big valve straight or angle plug heads from aftermarket. That White Performance on ebay has some pretty cheap and good smallblock heads.
 
I DO WE EVEN GOTTA GO THERE THERE ALWAYS ONE IN THE CROUD ISNT THERE
Picture-1.jpg

Ya got another one here.
 
Indy Cylinder Head and Aerohead definitely get five stars, two thumbs up and my certified seal of approval. :thumb: :thumb:

I second Mike. I bought a set of SBF heads from them years ago when I pulled a stud and cracked a head in a 289 Ford. Even though I was a broke high-school kid that really didn't know anything, they treated me well and sold me what I needed and not what I didn't. I've since sold the car (a '68 Mercury Cougar) but in an interesting set of circumstances, I got the heads back. They're on the shelf ready to get put on another SBF hot rod motor. Thumbs up for me as well!:thumb:
 
Everybodys right, the 305's are crap heads, unless you just want to build them OR are doing a budget build. There are some many 350 heads out there.....if you look hard enough, someone will eventually give you a good set of heads!
If you didn't ever loose any coolant, with what I saw in the pic, I believe Mike was right. If it wasn't leaking yet, it soon would have been.
The moneys the same for the 305 and the 350.......Those extra cubes are nice......once you sit behind a healthy 350.....you wouldn't want anything else.
 
Hehe, there was no need to post the piccie of the crack. I knew where it was.

I cannot urge you enough to take the head to a machine shop and have it checked for cracks. You just might save yourself the expense of another set of head and intake gaskets. As much as people do not like to hear it, 305 heads are prone to cracking. Full stop. As I said earlier, if a 305 head has 35,000 miles on it, it is cracked.

305's are cheap and some people like to save a buck where they can. But there are still a lot of 350's out there. The larger bore diameter unshrouds valves and helps air flow. The motor will not be as sensitive to air quality changes with larger bore diameters. Build something with 9.5:1 compression, a cam in the 278° range, a dual-plane intake and a 600 CFM carb and you're going to make around 1 HP per cubic inch. 350 HP makes a much stronger statement than 305 HP. And the parts don't cost 6¢ more for the 350.

As time passes and good small block parts get harder to find (think it can't happen, go find a good 400 block), more and more people are going to be looking at Dart and World for block and head castings. Right now, most people see the price tags and cringe, but they are actually a great bargain. If you can find someone with a good 400 block that will clean up at .030, you're going to pay a premium for it. Add that purchase price to the cost of doing the necessary machine work to make it right and you've suddenly got the price of an aftermarket block invested. And that aftermarket block is still standard bore, so those thicker cylinder walls can be bored a few times. A .030 over 400 block is finished, right there, if you're trying to build any compression. Bore it .060 and you're going to have cylinder wall problems, including cracks.
 
Hehe, there was no need to post the piccie of the crack. I knew where it was.

I cannot urge you enough to take the head to a machine shop and have it checked for cracks. You just might save yourself the expense of another set of head and intake gaskets. As much as people do not like to hear it, 305 heads are prone to cracking. Full stop. As I said earlier, if a 305 head has 35,000 miles on it, it is cracked.

305's are cheap and some people like to save a buck where they can. But there are still a lot of 350's out there. The larger bore diameter unshrouds valves and helps air flow. The motor will not be as sensitive to air quality changes with larger bore diameters. Build something with 9.5:1 compression, a cam in the 278° range, a dual-plane intake and a 600 CFM carb and you're going to make around 1 HP per cubic inch. 350 HP makes a much stronger statement than 305 HP. And the parts don't cost 6¢ more for the 350.

As time passes and good small block parts get harder to find (think it can't happen, go find a good 400 block), more and more people are going to be looking at Dart and World for block and head castings. Right now, most people see the price tags and cringe, but they are actually a great bargain. If you can find someone with a good 400 block that will clean up at .030, you're going to pay a premium for it. Add that purchase price to the cost of doing the necessary machine work to make it right and you've suddenly got the price of an aftermarket block invested. And that aftermarket block is still standard bore, so those thicker cylinder walls can be bored a few times. A .030 over 400 block is finished, right there, if you're trying to build any compression. Bore it .060 and you're going to have cylinder wall problems, including cracks.

So the other head is probably cracked too. its staying on the motor this year the car hasnt leaked coolant yet maybe i can babie it for the year and over winter put a 350 in it
 
"A .030 over 400 block is finished, right there, if you're trying to build any compression. Bore it .060 and you're going to have cylinder wall problems, including cracks."

Back in the day of junkyard part sprint car racing, Dad's friends were grabbing up every 400 SBC they could find.

Just to see what could be done, they took a .030 over 400 out of the car and took it to the max boring and stroking and relieving it until they could go no further. IIRC, they ended up with something like 477 CI. It ran AWESOME for about four laps and then went boom. I forgot who was driving it, but I do remember they described it as "CRISP!"

Now back to your regularly scheduled programming.

I had a 305, gave it to a friend to use in his 30 Ford sedan.
Gave it away, just needed a carb.
 

     Ron Pope Motorsports                Advertise with Us!     
Back
Top