Ground cable size
- Thread starter Golly
- Start date
The ground cable is also part of the starting system and should be as big as the positive cable. I run both cables directly from the battery to the starter, with the ground cable terminated on a lug under a starter bolt. And if you are using a stock starter, consider upgrading to an aftermarket gear reduction unit. I got mine on eBay for $60 and it made starting much easier. What battery are you using, and what is the C.R. and initial timing on your 383?
fordsbyjay
Active Member
I usually run the same size for both. I also run a short ground from the battery to the frame and a ground from the motor to the frame. You can never have enough grounds IMHO. If you had a smaller ground cable I think you could 'supplement' the smaller ground cable by using the mentioned frame grounds. This way the frame and the ground cable would suffice. If starting from new just use the same size to begin with. I use OO welding cable for my grounds and power cables available per ft at your local welding supply store.
X2 - You can get the cable at Home Depot as well.
Ted Brown
Member
Here is what I have done to stop that hot starting problem, by pass the key start first off, install a HD starter button and use #10 wire from the Battery to the button and back to the solenoid, or you can also use a close mounted starter solenoid to get plenty of power to the solenoid, will now start like a new Baby... I have had nothing but bad luck with key starters...
Johnny
Member
Sorry for hijacking thread, but I am getting a lot of info here, too. Now, if I have my battery mounted behind the body, can I just run a ground to frame from battery, and a ground from starter to frame, without one long cable from battery to starter?
I hope I made that clear.
Thanks
I hope I made that clear.
Thanks
EX JUNK
Moderator
To answer you question, yes you can. Just make sure that you use a star washer at each connection to the frame to insure a good connection.
Jim
I went to an electrical wholesaler and bought some aluminum ends with 3/8''holes as the welding shop ones were really big, then crimped them on with a proper big ass crimping tool we had at work. I have soldered them too, but have a bit more faith in the crimped ends (Just my 2 cents.)
You can get solder on terminals at the auto parts store which will fit whatever size cable you have, and will have the correct size hole in the other end for the bolt you are going to use to attach it to the starter or frame. Put the terminal in a vise with the cupped end up. Trim the appropriate amount of insulation off the cable. Get out your wire solder, cut 1/4" pieces until you have enough to fill the cup of the terminal. Heat the outside of the cup with a propane torch, the solder will melt into a big puddle, shove in the bare end of the cable. Let it cool for 30 seconds or so and you're done.
SCCustomRides
Banned
I always use Solder on ends followed by heatshrink, I have learned from other peoples mistakes and learned that corrosion stars as soon as the wire is exposed to air so the way to slow the process down is to keep it sealed from moisture.
Here is an interesting fact, automotive wiring was only designed to last for 10 years.
Even if a wire looks good on the outside that doesn't mean it is not corroded on the inside.
I always use high quality 0-gauge battery cables, and install more grounds than is needed.
Here is an interesting fact, automotive wiring was only designed to last for 10 years.
Even if a wire looks good on the outside that doesn't mean it is not corroded on the inside.
I always use high quality 0-gauge battery cables, and install more grounds than is needed.
SCCustomRides
Banned
I get all my weatherpack and wiring accessories here- http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+L056F70308B9064011E89001+M50+ENG
SCCustomRides
Banned
Waytekwire.com link above doesn't seem to work
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