Harness from Hell

[Gerry]

Started looking at wiring and plumbing this weekend. Glassed in a mount for the MSD module and then started to look around for a place to put the EFI ECU. Its going on the trans tunnel under the seat, just about the only place I can fit it.
Got out the EFI harness after 10 years of storage and almost had a heart attack. Wiring is NOT my favorite past time so it looks like I have my work cut out.

GULP

Does that look like fun, or what
Gerry

 

[Northstar T]

Started looking at wiring and plumbing this weekend. Glassed in a mount for the MSD module and then started to look around for a place to put the EFI ECU. Its going on the trans tunnel under the seat, just about the only place I can fit it.
Got out the EFI harness after 10 years of storage and almost had a heart attack. Wiring is NOT my favorite past time so it looks like I have my work cut out.

GULP
Gerry

Ha ha. ya that looks very familiar for some reason.
I also dispise wiring. Just take one circut at a time and don't cover any of the wires until everything is done and tested. I use cheepy wire ties or a wrap of electrical tape every few feet so it can be rebundled as needed as I add wires along the way. It's sure a lot easier with the body off also, but it looks like that option may not work for you.

Russ

 

[Gerry]

Ha ha. ya that looks very familiar for some reason.
I also dispise wiring. Just take one circut at a time and don't cover any of the wires until everything is done and tested. I use cheepy wire ties or a wrap of electrical tape every few feet so it can be rebundled as needed as I add wires along the way. It's sure a lot easier with the body off also, but it looks like that option may not work for you.

Russ

Body on in this case. Which is a good thing in that when it comes off again all the mess will come with it. Thanks for the advice, I ll take it slow and easy. Thing is once its all working I will have to hack it down to the right length. Kinsler told me I can shorten every wire except the purple one, which needs the right resistance to work. Boy I am not looking forward to this

 

[Ted Brown]

Gerry, Those valve covers are looking interesting...? Wiring is OK if you go slow and think it out very carefully and like Russ said, don't make it permanent till it all works as wanted... Heck just a good plug or two, all except that R wire.. should let you take the body off without too much trouble... if I know you, you will have it wired in short order, well Russ did... hehe

 

[putz]

Wiring can be a little overwhelming but it gets done with patience. Enjoy.

 

[rooster57]

I put a latemodel EFI motor in my K5 Balzer about half way through the install i tossed the factory harness into the trash. WAY to many wires that go no where on a retro fit. I purchased a painless harness half the wires almost invisable and the ECM could go where i wanted it to go. 300 bucks and so easy even a caveman can do it .!!!!!!!

 

[Old Rotor Flap]

Hey Gerry,

That blue wire sticking out just to the other side of the second bundle near the transition point on the main bus bar inter-connect of the central leg of the smaller bundle of the cluster in the middle is critical - if your running on three phase and if you expect an analog clock to function on GMT - (nearby you, no doubt) So, be careful with the other end of that wire or your glide- slope and ILS locator may flip to FROM position just when you have your hands full calibrating the Turbine Outlet Temps (TOT) and Turbine Inlet Temps (TIT) if your close to Vne and there just isn't a whole lot of (runway) real estate left.

As anyone can see, all this means be careful.

Gerry buddy, you've built a very impressive car. The wiring shouldn't be a problem for you.

 

[Gerry]

Gerry, Those valve covers are looking interesting...? Wiring is OK if you go slow and think it out very carefully and like Russ said, don't make it permanent till it all works as wanted... Heck just a good plug or two, all except that R wire.. should let you take the body off without too much trouble... if I know you, you will have it wired in short order, well Russ did... hehe

Off the shelf chrome 4 bolt covers. Just gone with single hole on both sides. I can fill it through the valley plate.
Can someone tell me more about Painless wiring. Thing is that this whole set up was done some 18 years ago so i am not sure that it would be that easy to get one made
gerry

 

[Northstar T]

Gerry, Those valve covers are looking interesting...? Wiring is OK if you go slow and think it out very carefully and like Russ said, don't make it permanent till it all works as wanted... Heck just a good plug or two, all except that R wire.. should let you take the body off without too much trouble... if I know you, you will have it wired in short order, well Russ did... hehe

Are you serious? I'm still not done wiring mine 6 weeks later. ha ha. I hate wiring so much that I can only do it in short sessions, and then I've just got to get away from it or go crazy [er]. it is very close to being done now however.
Wiring is one more area where having a donor car really comes in handy (I didn't have one on this car) donor cars can have lots of really good plugs for one thing. I finally dug up a 13 pin plug in my stash pile for the main harness to the instrument panel, and bought a few 2 pin trailer plugs for a couple other items. I always HATE working on someone elses car that is totally hard wired with no plugs at all. it just doesn't take that much to put in a few.
Gerry. where are you running the wires to the under seat stuff? are you saying they will be above the floor?

looking good!!,
Russ

 

[Northstar T]

Off the shelf chrome 4 bolt covers. Just gone with single hole on both sides. I can fill it through the valley plate.
Can someone tell me more about Painless wiring. Thing is that this whole set up was done some 18 years ago so i am not sure that it would be that easy to get one made
gerry

I seriously doubt that you'd get a Painless harness for your EFI setup. they only make them for "popular" swaps. now... when it comes to the cars wiring, that's another story, however I still wouldn't go with the Painless brand, as they are just too spendy for my cheep arse.

Russ

 

[Gerry]

Are you serious? I'm still not done wiring mine 6 weeks later. ha ha. I hate wiring so much that I can only do it in short sessions, and then I've just got to get away from it or go crazy [er]. it is very close to being done now however.
Wiring is one more area where having a donor car really comes in handy (I didn't have one on this car) donor cars can have lots of really good plugs for one thing. I finally dug up a 13 pin plug in my stash pile for the main harness to the instrument panel, and bought a few 2 pin trailer plugs for a couple other items. I always HATE working on someone elses car that is totally hard wired with no plugs at all. it just doesn't take that much to put in a few.
Gerry. where are you running the wires to the under seat stuff? are you saying they will be above the floor?

looking good!!,
Russ

Wires will run under the floor on each side of the body. Where it is channeled it leaves a great void for all the messy bits.

Also going to run the fuel lines here and a reserve tank of about 1 gallon (made from 1/8 plate). Dont start on me please but I am so pushed for space and I do NOT want fuel lines anywhere near the prop shaft

 

[EX JUNK]

Here is a very basic wiring system that does not cost much money and is easy to install and trouble shoot with these prints. Give it a try. Many guys have and found it very easy.

Another thing that I always do is COMPLETELY wire the car BEFORE paint. In doing this, I am able to make any changes such as adding holes or brackets, etc. without disturbing the finished product. I also do this with ALL the plumbing on the car.

JIm

 

[Gerry]

Here is a very basic wiring system that does not cost much money and is easy to install and trouble shoot with these prints. Give it a try. Many guys have and found it very easy.

Another thing that I always do is COMPLETELY wire the car BEFORE paint. In doing this, I am able to make any changes such as adding holes or brackets, etc. without disturbing the finished product. I also do this with ALL the plumbing on the car.

JIm

Thanks for all the info.. its really helpful. I especially like the idea of a main 50 amp fuse to protect everything should there be a short. I can modify your info as I am only running the bare essentials so a couple of the circuits are not needed.
By the way the harness in my picture is ONLY for the EFI. I need to run another one for all the other stuff as in your diagrams.
Thanks again
gerry

 

[Wild Mango]

Thanks for all the info.. its really helpful. I especially like the idea of a main 50 amp fuse to protect everything should there be a short. I can modify your info as I am only running the bare essentials so a couple of the circuits are not needed.
By the way the harness in my picture is ONLY for the EFI. I need to run another one for all the other stuff as in your diagrams.
Thanks again
gerry

IMHO
Ballast Resistor bypass on start circuit is missing. Needs wire from solenoid energising terminal to coil +ve terminal.

 

[Gerry]

Started looking at wiring and plumbing this weekend. Glassed in a mount for the MSD module and then started to look around for a place to put the EFI ECU. Its going on the trans tunnel under the seat, just about the only place I can fit it.
Got out the EFI harness after 10 years of storage and almost had a heart attack. Wiring is NOT my favorite past time so it looks like I have my work cut out.

GULP
[attachment=4690:wiring harness.JPG]
Does that look like fun, or what
Gerry

Sat down in the sun yesterday while some glass was going off on the screen mounts and took all the corrugated plastic, grommets etc off the loom,. Does nt look quite so bad in its naked state. Also got the ECU mounted under the seat on the tunnel and the MSD in the back of the body. Next time I put a floor in I will make sure to glass a flat top on the tunnel to mount things on.

Gerry