help from bodywork guru needed

[Gerry]

Just shot primer on the body and the swage lines are all over the place. Anyone know any tricks to even them out and make them the same all over. By the way its a glass body.
Gerry

 

[EX JUNK]

Just shot primer on the body and the swage lines are all over the place. Anyone know any tricks to even them out and make them the same all over. By the way its a glass body.
Gerry

If by "swage lines" you mean the door outlines and the roll at the top of the body, I would suggest that you make a template out of aluminum or steel in the shape you desire. Then apply some filler to those areas and while it is still "wet", drag the template over the area removing all filler that is not part of the feature line that you want. This will give you a nice crisp feature.

If the above is not what you are after, let me know otherwise and I'll try to help more.

Jim

 

[Gerry]

If by "swage lines" you mean the door outlines and the roll at the top of the body, I would suggest that you make a template out of aluminum or steel in the shape you desire. Then apply some filler to those areas and while it is still "wet", drag the template over the area removing all filler that is not part of the feature line that you want. This will give you a nice crisp feature.

If the above is not what you are after, let me know otherwise and I'll try to help more.

Jim

Jim
Yep thts exactly what i mean. I have no door outlines but the swage along the top of the body that runs down the scuttle and the two that go vertical on the back panel are all over the place. They are so bad Im almost thinking of killing them all... but that would take away one of the features of a T so Im stuck with getting them smooth, the same shape and thickness. Thought about a template just wondered if there was another way. Added to that the radius on the bulkhead is different side to side. Another step forward and 3 steps back. Huh
Gerry

 

[ruggs]

Jim
Yep thts exactly what i mean. I have no door outlines but the swage along the top of the body that runs down the scuttle and the two that go vertical on the back panel are all over the place. They are so bad Im almost thinking of killing them all... but that would take away one of the features of a T so Im stuck with getting them smooth, the same shape and thickness. Thought about a template just wondered if there was another way. Added to that the radius on the bulkhead is different side to side. Another step forward and 3 steps back. Huh
Gerry

Gerry,
Since you are already in primer, body plastic would not be a good option to correct the lines without removing the primer. Use a 2 part finishing putty (Evercoat makes a very good one). Guide coat your primer with a contrasting color of primer (just dust it over your base primer)block your lines back where they belong an fill where needed. This is where patience comes into play.......ruggs

 

[Gerry]

Gerry,
Since you are already in primer, body plastic would not be a good option to correct the lines without removing the primer. Use a 2 part finishing putty (Evercoat makes a very good one). Guide coat your primer with a contrasting color of primer (just dust it over your base primer)block your lines back where they belong an fill where needed. This is where patience comes into play.......ruggs

These pics may help. Is there a problem with putting bondo over primer? I have done it for years with no problems to date?? Just thought I would ask.

Has to happen when you havnt picked up a spray gun for a couple of years

 

[EX JUNK]

Gerry,
Since you are already in primer, body plastic would not be a good option to correct the lines without removing the primer. Use a 2 part finishing putty (Evercoat makes a very good one). Guide coat your primer with a contrasting color of primer (just dust it over your base primer)block your lines back where they belong an fill where needed. This is where patience comes into play.......ruggs

As long as you have used an epoxy type primer it is perfectly acceptable, and in many cases recommended, to use a filler on top of it. It is best to do it within the window of a couple of hours of shooting the primer. If you wait longer you must really scratch it up with some 80 grit though. This is accepted practice in many pro shops.

Jim

 

[EX JUNK]

Gerry, the procedures that I have talked about in the above posts are exactly what I have used. All my feature lines are very crisp and clean compared to most commercial bodies out there. Just take your time and with the build talents that you have shown so far you will have NO problem.

Jim

 

[Gerry]

Gerry, the procedures that I have talked about in the above posts are exactly what I have used. All my feature lines are very crisp and clean compared to most commercial bodies out there. Just take your time and with the build talents that you have shown so far you will have NO problem.

Jim

Thanks buddy. Now the work begins.
G

 

[Ted Brown]

Gerry, I see a run or curtain as they call them in the paint circles, that is not what you were talking about was it?? Like my old Friend Puddy Pete used to say, no extra charge for curtains :winkn: and yes a guide coat works wonders when sanding any type of primer... This is where you make or break your finished paint job... :winkn:

 

[ruggs]

These pics may help. Is there a problem with putting bondo over primer? I have done it for years with no problems to date?? Just thought I would ask.

[attachment=4180:bodywork-(22).jpg]Has to happen when you havnt picked up a spray gun for a couple of years

[attachment=4181:bodywork-(5).jpg] [attachment=4182:bodywork-(6).jpg]

Gerry,
The pictures show runs, sags or whatever anyone cares to call them. Guide coat the run and block it out. Let it cure for a day and reprime. Sorry to differ with anyone but,40 plus years as a professional body and paint person says use 2 part finishing putty after your in prime. If you are to the primer stage you shouldn't have any imperfections that should need body plastic. JMO take it as you will......ruggs

 

[EX JUNK]

Gerry, here are a couple of links for you to check out.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/274731-filler-aka-bondo-and-epoxy-primer.html

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0805_how_to_use_body_filler/index.html

http://forums.mustangmonthly.com/70...rimer-on-bare-metal-before-fillers/index.html

Jim

 

[Gerry]

Gerry,
The pictures show runs, sags or whatever anyone cares to call them. Guide coat the run and block it out. Let it cure for a day and reprime. Sorry to differ with anyone but,40 plus years as a professional body and paint person says use 2 part finishing putty after your in prime. If you are to the primer stage you shouldn't have any imperfections that should need body plastic. JMO take it as you will......ruggs

Ruggs.
Thanks.
I put it in primer as the state of the body/'paint' was so very bad. Had to DA the hell out of it to get a clean surface. I have done loads of paint jobs in the past including graphics, murals and candy. Never had a problem except in the early days with a clear coat from Glasurit.
Plan was to get a good working surface and cherry it from there. Once all the filling and primer works is finished then shoot in yellow. I am using cellulose cause I prefer to work with that.
Once the yellow has been used for a 'protection' coat I plan to seal it with 2 pack sealer and then shoot the final coat of HOC Candy red. Remember this is only a yellow protection coat and so I can see how the car stands in that color.
May be all wrong about this but as I mentioned never had a problem to date. The chassis will be grit blasted before the red is layed but you cant really do that to a glass body.. or can you.?
Thanks for all the help.
Gerry

 

[Gerry]

Ruggs.
Thanks.
I put it in primer as the state of the body/'paint' was so very bad. Had to DA the hell out of it to get a clean surface. I have done loads of paint jobs in the past including graphics, murals and candy. Never had a problem except in the early days with a clear coat from Glasurit.
Plan was to get a good working surface and cherry it from there. Once all the filling and primer works is finished then shoot in yellow. I am using cellulose cause I prefer to work with that.
Once the yellow has been used for a 'protection' coat I plan to seal it with 2 pack sealer and then shoot the final coat of HOC Candy red. Remember this is only a yellow protection coat and so I can see how the car stands in that color.
May be all wrong about this but as I mentioned never had a problem to date. The chassis will be grit blasted before the red is layed but you cant really do that to a glass body.. or can you.?
Thanks for all the help.
Gerry

Hey Ruggs
Need your help and experience. Spent 2 days on the body so far and got the back panel straight along with the scuttle and sides
BUT these feature lines are driving me mad. I made a template and tried to run the filler in with it... no go. I tried to scrape the result with the template (3mm steel) and agin no go.
I am now down to just working every inch by hand.






Any ideas?????

 

[Ted Brown]

Hey Ruggs
Need your help and experience. Spent 2 days on the body so far and got the back panel straight along with the scuttle and sides
BUT these feature lines are driving me mad. I made a template and tried to run the filler in with it... no go. I tried to scrape the result with the template (3mm steel) and agin no go.
I am now down to just working every inch by hand.

[attachment=4219:bodywork1-(8).jpg] [attachment=4220:bodywork1-(10).jpg]

[attachment=4221:bodywork1-(12).jpg] [attachment=4222:bodywork1-(1).jpg]


Any ideas?????

Every inch by hand is the way to go, as that body is small anyway, compared to a regular full sized car :egypt: guide coat every primer coat so you can see just what you are doing and with that comes no OVER sanding... Did you ever give the Yellow a thought as to being your base coat for the Red Candy paint?? as every different colour base coat changes the final look of any Candy colour, some here use Silver, some use Gold, some White each with a totally different out come, test a few under colours to see which you like best... That body has a great look, wish mine was that low on the sides and up that high in the back.

 

[Rick]

Hey Ruggs
Need your help and experience. Spent 2 days on the body so far and got the back panel straight along with the scuttle and sides
BUT these feature lines are driving me mad. I made a template and tried to run the filler in with it... no go. I tried to scrape the result with the template (3mm steel) and agin no go.
I am now down to just working every inch by hand.

[attachment=4219:bodywork1-(8).jpg] [attachment=4220:bodywork1-(10).jpg]

[attachment=4221:bodywork1-(12).jpg] [attachment=4222:bodywork1-(1).jpg]


Any ideas?????

I might have had to many brews so i dont know.What body is that?

 

[Gerry]

Every inch by hand is the way to go, as that body is small anyway, compared to a regular full sized car guide coat every primer coat so you can see just what you are doing and with that comes no OVER sanding... Did you ever give the Yellow a thought as to being your base coat for the Red Candy paint?? as every different colour base coat changes the final look of any Candy colour, some here use Silver, some use Gold, some White each with a totally different out come, test a few under colours to see which you like best... That body has a great look, wish mine was that low on the sides and up that high in the back.

Hey Ted
Good to hear from you. Ah well if it takes an inch by inch attack then its the way to go. I was going with a silver base and then a fog of gold but yellow as a base. mmmm thats a thought. I will try it on the dash and see how it looks.
I have been thinking that this is a one off body. If there is anyone out there interested in having a mold taken from it and is willing to do a deal then nows the time to say.
Its been a while since I did a 'custom' paint job. You know it seems like in the past we just did it in a couple of days and got a finish that others would just WOW over. Maybe Im forgetting the 2000 grit hand rub and then the hours of polishing back to a shine.
Getting old ain t that much fun, its hard work
Gerry

 

[ruggs]

Hey Ruggs
Need your help and experience. Spent 2 days on the body so far and got the back panel straight along with the scuttle and sides
BUT these feature lines are driving me mad. I made a template and tried to run the filler in with it... no go. I tried to scrape the result with the template (3mm steel) and agin no go.
I am now down to just working every inch by hand.

[attachment=4219:bodywork1-(8).jpg] [attachment=4220:bodywork1-(10).jpg]

[attachment=4221:bodywork1-(12).jpg] [attachment=4222:bodywork1-(1).jpg]


Any ideas?????

Gerry, If you can hold off until tomarrow night I will go to the shop and damage a body line.Then I get you some photos of how to fix it...........ruggs

 

[Gerry]

Gerry, If you can hold off until tomarrow night I will go to the shop and damage a body line.Then I get you some photos of how to fix it...........ruggs

Ruggs
Thats incredible. I cant thank you enough. But DAMAGING a body line seems a little extreme, just to help me out. Cant wait for the pics.
Gerry