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I hope I didn't screw up

KPoole9008

New Member
Last weekend I fired up my GM crate engine for the first time. I primed the engine oil and did all the correct things. I was told to break in the engine, I needed to start it up and keep the RPMs between 1000 and 1500 which I did. I NOW find out I should have held the RPMs between 2200 and 2500. The header pipe's first 10 or so inches at the head on the number 8 cylinder turned blue. All the other pipes are good. Am I OK or have I screwed up and if so what do I do now? Thanks
 
Same you are fine it is a four stroke. It if was a 2 stroke #8 would be pretty ugly. 2 strokes motors are pretty forgiving. Where these brand new headers? If they where you might be able to get rid of most of the blue look it up on here. Congrats you are getting close to cruisin
 
As Ron mentioned, the higher RPM during a cam break-in is to ensure adequate oil splash to the lifter/cam lobe interface. That area relies on oil being splashed up there from the piddle hole in the rod.

The blue on the header tube is an indication of chamber heat and has nothing to do with cam oiling. Enjoy your ride!
 
Like I have said before, starting a new engine, I always try and use some leftover stock parts, like the stock exhaust manifolds and head pipes & mufflers, sometimes mounted up side down and backwards, to the front... sounds like a crazy thing to do, but it works great! keeps things quiet and will let you get things working correctly plus the right jetting and timing, then when all is running smooth, time for your new headers, then maybe a bit more fine tuning and you should be good to drive... It only takes a second to Blue new headers with timing being off, plus make sure you have ALL the finger prints wiped off and real clean, or they too will be a permanent eye sore... )
 
Like I have said before, starting a new engine, I always try and use some leftover stock parts, like the stock exhaust manifolds and head pipes & mufflers, sometimes mounted up side down and backwards, to the front... sounds like a crazy thing to do, but it works great! keeps things quiet and will let you get things working correctly plus the right jetting and timing, then when all is running smooth, time for your new headers, then maybe a bit more fine tuning and you should be good to drive... It only takes a second to Blue new headers with timing being off, plus make sure you have ALL the finger prints wiped off and real clean, or they too will be a permanent eye sore... )

like this? I agree with Ted.

Here is my break-in set. I drove it up and down the block and get a few strange looks, but these cheapie headers with an added cone from leftover tubing only cost me about $20. As we are in the business of coating headers, we send out each set with instructions to not install on a fresh engine without running and tuning prior. If a cylinder is lean or you have a fuel leak, it will ruin a set of coated headers fast. The silver ceramic coatings are good to approx 1300 degrees, but you can trash them quick if you have some tuneup issues. And yes we have received several sets back with the explanation that they read our instructions but disregarded them. :news:

P1040727.jpg
 
like this? I agree with Ted.

Here is my break-in set. I drove it up and down the block and get a few strange looks, but these cheapie headers with an added cone from leftover tubing only cost me about $20. As we are in the business of coating headers, we send out each set with instructions to not install on a fresh engine without running and tuning prior. If a cylinder is lean or you have a fuel leak, it will ruin a set of coated headers fast. The silver ceramic coatings are good to approx 1300 degrees, but you can trash them quick if you have some tuneup issues. And yes we have received several sets back with the explanation that they read our instructions but disregarded them. :news:

P1040727.jpg
That looks good, now I try and use a set of mufflers that will let you hear the engine and all that is inside, you want to hear a knock of something is trying to get away... hehe not really funny if there is a little man with a big hammer inside... :)
 
I burned up a new set of custom headers on my crate motor (many years ago when I was green). The usual cause is retarded timing, which pushes still-burning gasses out the pipes. Check your timing. Most folks run something like 15 or 20.

Blued pipes are common, and I think you are fine on the motor.
 
Last weekend I fired up my GM crate engine for the first time. I primed the engine oil and did all the correct things. I was told to break in the engine, I needed to start it up and keep the RPMs between 1000 and 1500 which I did. I NOW find out I should have held the RPMs between 2200 and 2500. The header pipe's first 10 or so inches at the head on the number 8 cylinder turned blue. All the other pipes are good. Am I OK or have I screwed up and if so what do I do now? Thanks
your crate engine whould alreadry been broken in they have warranty and are not going to take a chance on someone not breaking in the cam right
 
Do roller engines require the same break in as flat tappet engines? I always thought it was to set the tappets to the cam.
Roller cams don't need to be broken in. As a matter of fact, used roller lifters can be reused on new roller cams. Flat tappets need love and care for twenty minutes or so, varying rpms between 2000 and 2500. Don't forget the ZDDP if it is a flat tappet. IIRC, we were never told if it was a roller engine or flat tappet. Wonder if it has roller tipped rockers?
Is this a true GM crate engine? I don't know if they actually dyno them or put them on an electric motor and just make sure they have consistent compression across the board and nothing sounds off. Should be a dyno sheet if so. More info is always nice. The more we know, the more we can be of help.
It's probably fine, change the oil and filter and do it again after 500 miles. Enjoy.

John
 

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