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Kickup length/Width

longhaul

New Member
Quick questions. Using Youngsters Plans, would it matter if the kickup bars were 6.5 rather than 7 inches (60 degrees)? I don't know if this will caue any issues later on.

Also, a little irritated.... I cut a rear cross member with end caps at 22 7/8 as the plans stated, before I saw the recommendations here of going wider for clearance issues. I do have an extra 4 feet of rectangular tubing (at least I planned ahead there), I just hate to re-do it. Or is there a way to run the frame at 25-26 but the kickups at 22 7/8?

Thanks guys. Build thread coming soon.
 
Ok, I see what you mean. I have never considered exactly how low I want it to sit... I am not into the lower is better thing. I am using 1.5 X 3.
 
We use a CAD program to build these cars to get the ride height correct, then the brackets and mounts. Not everyone wants the exact same T Bucket. So we make the needed changes to get what they want. I would suggest you get some big pieces of card board. Drier or refrigerator boxes and lay them on the shop floor and draw it all out full size. It is a whole lot cheaper than wasted steel. First thing is what size tires you going to run? 26" tall or 38" tall it will make a big difference in how your new car will set. If I can help you out, please feel free to give me a call.
 
When I built mine i attached the body to the bed where it looked good, Then sat the body on the ground and measured for my kickup that way so my frame sits flush underneath everything. It seemed like it worked well for me that way. It sits a little high in the back but its not too bad.

Here is mine with a 30" tall tire and RPM's 4" drop front end for reference......................
 

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My rear is at a high angle too so i could sit in the body and not on it. Here is a pic of the frame dimensions and with the floor made up........................
 

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Joe, those deminsions are a huge help! I like the height as to me it gives "muscle" look.

Thanks a ton!
 

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