Lifting a Small Block

[Swampdog]

Would you think it is safe to lift a built up Small block in and out of the car with one of those lifting eyes that bolt to the carb flange on an alum. manifold?

Swampdog

 

[old round fart]

Some do it. Not me. I go from header bolts.

 

[Johnny]

I second the header bolts

 

[Mike J]

Think about murphy's law. I wouldn't!

 

[TriodeLuvr]

And while we're on the subject of safety, a fellow hot rodder lost his life in Dallas many years ago pulling his motor using a tree limb. He had just leaned in under the motor for a closer look when the limb cracked. In fact, my own near-demise came a few years later. I was working under a car supported only by a scissors jack, and both rear wheels had been removed. Just as I pulled myself out from underneath, the jack tilted and the car fell. Only by a stroke of luck am I here to write this.

Jack

 

[EX JUNK]

Here is a device that I made to lift a small block Chevy engine.



Once it pulled I can store it on this movable cart.



Jim

 

[Hotrod46]

I have pulled and installed engines that way. I use long all threaded grade 8 bolts screwed all the way into the manifold(full thread depth). The lifting plate is then secured with nuts, similar to using studs. Also, examine the threaded holes carefully. Theoretically the manifold threads are more than strong enough for the job, but I will admit that it's not my favorite way.

BTW- I did it with GM factory and Edelbrock manifolds, don't know how one of the other brands would fare.

 

[bobs66440]

I have done it with a lifting plate, but it's a little scary. Now, depending on the engine, I try to use what holes are available in the heads/block.

This was a big block 440 Mopar with trans attached...probably close to 750lbs., bolted to the aluminum intake. It was a bit nerve wracking lifting it way over the front of the car...

 

[bobs66440]

I was working under a car supported only by a scissors jack, and both rear wheels had been removed.

Wow! you are lucky. I NEVER go under a car without jack stands...yikes!

 

[RPM]

There are usually bolts on the ends of the heads, or the intake bolts themselves. Use a longer bolt with a big flat washer.

 

[Mike]

Make yourself comfortable with whatever you want to use, but a lift plate on the carb flange of a SBC cast aluminum intake will work, just fine. I wouldn't want to use a plate on a sheet metal intake, but a cast intake is more than strong enough for the job.

 

[Hotrod46]

I will add that I use this for the engine only. Hang 200 lbs or so of trans off the back and it pushes the balance point back a little to far for my comfort. Moves the load back more on the rear bolts.

Also, the lifting plate that I use is one that I sawed out of heavy wide flange H beam. It's sits on the carb pad flat and doesn't flex.

This method does allow you to fully assemble the engine before dropping it in (accessory brackets and all). The last engine I did this way only needed the carb, external wiring and plumbing put on t0 fire it up. A lot easier to do on a stand than in the car.

BTW - I like Jim's idea. Wouldn't expect anything less from him!

 

[rbsWELDER]

Ex-Junk,

Great looking design!

Would you please post a close up of your mounting plate?

It appears that the uprights are welded to the mounting piece of are the uprights doubles?

How much did it cost to 'have it made'?

Do you have a sketch or drawing that you could share?

Thanks,

Mark

 

[EX JUNK]

Mark, those pictures are the only ones that I have. However, if you give me a week or so I'll give you a drawing of what I made. The reason for the wait is that we are having house guests until next week and those parts are at my son's house. If you would PM me I'll get the info to you.

Jim

 

[rbsWELDER]

Mark, those pictures are the only ones that I have. However, if you give me a week or so I'll give you a drawing of what I made. The reason for the wait is that we are having house guests until next week and those parts are at my son's house. If you would PM me I'll get the info to you.

Jim

Jim,

A BIG Thank You!

Mark

 

[Golly]

Both methods, block bolts and intake plates have their merits, I've used both many times. When using a manifold plate, make sure the bolts are as long as you can get in to the manifold , and snug up all four bolts/studs. Not super tight, just make sure all 4 are tight.

 

[Screaming Metal]

I really like the plates Ex Junk has....now that 440 needs to be in a bucket! As Mike said, the alum. intakes are plenty strong enough, make sure that the lifting plate is well built. Also, don't go lifting a motor if the carb stud holes are worn, sloppy and loose. A motor parting company from the cherry picker can have a very sickening effect on people.

 

[Golly]

Iron vs Aluminum Manifold stolen from another Forum,

From the Forum Rules -

d. T-Bucket Forums members are asked to respect the copyright of other users, sites, media, etc. Users wanting to use copyright material are limited to quoting two (2) sentences from the original work, if they include Fair Use identification and a link to the source in their posting. Quoting or copying any other material must be accompanied with written permission from the rights holder and mailed to Aztech Consulting LLC. Users linking to or asking for information on warez, crackz, etc. or re-printing material without permission will receive a warning and their post will be removed.

Content allegedly 'stoled from another Forum' removed. Please do not post copyright content on this site, if you cannot remain within the structure of the above rule. - Mike

 

[bobs66440]

Well, there you have it. I just finished painting my engine, so to avoid scratching the paint, I nervously lifted it by the (aluminum) manifold carb studs. I will feel better now when I install the engine in the chassis. Thanks for posting!

 

[Golly]

Sorry Mike,