Main rail length for a 23 T

[mikesplumbing]

Hey fellas!

Just wondering if you could guide me on the main rail length. What I mean is the distance from the front crossmember to the angle where the kick-up starts. My goal is to not have an excesive gap from the radiator to the front end. I suppose I could adjust the body a litle but from what I gather the rear of the body sits on the edge of the kick-up so that limits me a little.

Youngsters plans say to cut that piece 88", does anyone have any experience trying to close the gap? The body will be a spirit, or at least thats what i'm thinking right now.

Thanks
Mike

 

[EX JUNK]

Do you have a body? If so, mock everything up with some 2" X 4" and get the look that pleases you. I am a firm believer in having a body FIRST and making the chassis fit the body rather than the reverse. IOMHO

Jim

 

[Hotrod46]

Do you have a body? If so, mock everything up with some 2" X 4" and get the look that pleases you. I am a firm believer in having a body FIRST and making the chassis fit the body rather than the reverse. IOMHO

Jim

+1 on having the body first. Unless your building a proven frame from blueprints with no changes, there's really no other way to do it.

In my opinion, you should have all the major components (or mockups of them) in your shop before you cut the first piece of steel. This would be the frontend, rearend, engine, trans and radiator.

You should also know (or have a good idea) the size of the tires and wheels you intend to use. You can cut out wooden mockups to get an idea of tire size before spending a ton of money on new parts.

The engine and trans can be junk, empty parts of the same type you want to use.

The front and rearends need to be the parts you're going to use. S10 rearends work well and are plentiful and cheap.

Mike

 

[LKE]

I also agree on having the parts you are using for mock up before building. I cut my frame rails at 89.5" from the long point of the angle. But I wrap the ends of mine differently, so that also is about the middle of the front crossmember too. it leaves a lot of room in front on a small block car.

 

[RPM]

I fin that Youngsters plans are a little short for some applications. What engine are you going to run. Will you ever put a blower on the car? (need extra room for that belt).

Here is a set of Spirit plans that Bob from Spirit posted quite awhile ago, but they still work out just fine.

 

[RPM]

By the way we have all the brackets and tabs in stock. We also are stocking that front crossmember that can be hard to find.

 

[mikesplumbing]

Thanks Ron, I see you manufacture, sell parts, advertise and also contribute and help others with there buckets. I respect that! I'm a self employed plumber and help people whenever I can especially in this bad economy. Having said that, I'm a big fan of "American Made" and everything I need that i'm not going to make I'll be buying from you.

Mike

Thanks for the prints, I'm so confused on what to do right now i'm going crazy.

 

[mikesplumbing]

Also Ron to answer your questions, I think i'm going to use either a Chevy 283 or 327, not sure which one but will be one of the two because I own them already. The engne will be just a basic set-up with nothing fancy, i'm not looking to win a race so 300 hp is about max. The front end I want real low and the back end jacked up. I want a real tight package with no gaps, I really like that look. The spirit body I like because the dash has a nice look.

Mike

 

[RPM]

Sprit makes some really nice stuff. Here are just a few tips, take them for what ever they are worth. Don't make the engine to firewall so tight that you can't get in to set timing or to get the trans to block bolts out. We set the engine trans parting line 3" in front of the firewall this gives you enough room to get to those top bolts to get the tranny out. Now getting the tranny out. Make the trans crossmember removeable. Some don't do that, they weld them in. Then you would have to remove the engine to change the converter, flywhel, etc. If you thing you need some added strenth to the chassis go back of the front u joint and put in a 1 x 2" crossmemeber laying flat across. Those are just some things that I have found to try and make these cars more fun to work on.

 

[putz]

Mike one fair warning if you order parts from Ron Which I hope you do.Call and talk to him but plan for extra time on the phone real interesting guy to talk to.
Putz

 

[dmc3113]

It would be best to have the body, pickup bed, and/or turtle deck, bare block, ect. before you start construction. On my frames I mount the engine(sbc) front machined surface(where the water pump mounts)12 inches from the rear of the front crossmember. The body with 20 inch p/u bed measurement is 36 inches from the front of the front crossmember to the firewall.. Think in terms of proportions when building a 'T' roadster. The body is channelled 3 inches over the frame. I try to build my frames with a 6 degree rake front to rear. Front frame width is 24 inches, rear is 28 1/2 inches. If you use a p/u bed don't let the rear tires hang past the bed. Build your seat so you don't look like you're gonna fall out when you corner! There are a lot of really nice T buckets around that have some very nice proportions. On the other hand there are some that are really weird looking.Send me a PM if you like to have my phone number. I'll be happy to give you more measurements,and any help I can.

Danny

P.S.: Check my profile for pictures of my frame.

 

[mikesplumbing]

Thanks Ron, Danny, Putz, and the rest of ya! I'm going to take good advice and buy the body first and wont cut any steel until I have what I need.

After the car show today my son and I pulled out my 327 block and brought it home. At least now I can size it up and play around.

The next quest is to figure out what I need for a front end and then the rear. I'm thinking a ford 9" but not sure.

For the front end i'm gonna just give Ron a call and have him walk me through it. I want it low as possible and safe of course.

Thanks again
Mike

 

[mikesplumbing]

Danny, I did check out the pictures. Looks like you have an awesome set-up. Thanks for offering the help, once I get a little further along I will take you up on the phone call thing. Looking forward to it.

Mike

 

[Ted Brown]

All they are saying is true, you do need a complete engine and trans with water pump and fan, a radiator of your choice and cover- and body, to mock up how you like it to sit.. this is a from scratch proto type of set up.. other wise use some proven plans that sit as you want, or measure a complete car and shorten frame as to your liking... That is also the way to change a used chassis to make it your own.... a complete mock up is needed for sure to get the look you want... :rofl:

 

[Brucer]

I usually start a build at the rear and go towards the front...

If you want it to be a absolute great fit throughout the vehicle.. I wouldnt venture to far off the ccr or spirit plans and work your way from the rear foward, have your body,bed, mockup block waterpump and tranny, radiator and shell,and steeringbox leave the main rail length for last.. Basicly build your frame kickup, leave the main rails long, fit all major components, get the spacing you want at the radiator and front crossmember and adjust to your taste, cut them where you want them and weld..

 

[Screaming Metal]

I fin that Youngsters plans are a little short for some applications. What engine are you going to run. Will you ever put a blower on the car? (need extra room for that belt).

Here is a set of Spirit plans that Bob from Spirit posted quite awhile ago, but they still work out just fine.

On the Altereds we add about 8" between a normally aspirated and a blown motor................

 

[rooster57]

I added 9 inches to my CCR plans 6 in ther front and 3 in the rear and am glad i did. I was one of those dummys that didnt look into all the body choices and selected a streach body and the extra length in the front rails was just right . Phew that was a close one.

 

[Youngster]

Mike .. for the car your're wanting to build, waiting till you have the body etc is a great idea. The plans I submitted will work with most applications. However, as I stated in them please feel free to make modifications where ever you need to. They where developed around a sbc for obvious reasons. They are meant to be a starting point for those who are looking for information. As such, I am available thru the site to answer any questions about building one of your own. At this point there are several (7 that I know of) in process.

You have been given a lot of good pointers form the guys on here. That puts you a step ahead of where a lot of us started. Hot rodders are by nature a very inovative group. No two cars will be the same even if they're built by the same fabricator. But then if that's what we wanted we'd all be driving a Mustang.

Good luck with your build. We are all here to lend a hand in anyway we can.

Ron

 

[one finger john]

If you are using the Ford 6 cylinder you have to remember that the engine is longer and the proportions are different. Pan clearence, radiator clearence, Z'd frame (front & rear?), will it look good stink bug style or lowww. Don't forget tire height. Give yourself lots of room to stand back and really get a feel for the car. Hood or no hood? 6 cyl. means extra length.
Its all in presentation and proportion.

 

[chopfather]

has anyone ever spliced a frame rail to get more length ? and was it sucsessful ?