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Master cyl plumbing and general brake issues

fordsbyjay

fordsbyjay

Active Member
I have a thread trying to identify my spindles and I have touched on my brake issues in it but I wanted to start a new thread in the proper section as I have a few more brake questions.

http://www.tbucketeers.com/threads/spindle-identification.14512/

My car has a standard 1" Ford master cyl. I have been having some poor braking issues lately and after the suggestions in the other thread I found my brake fluid to really contaminated ( a rusty color). I pulled the m/cyl out and took it apart for inspection.

Picture091.jpg


All is well so I cleaned it out and will re-install shortly with fresh fluid and flush the brake system. One of my question has to do with the plumbing. The large reservoir is for the front disk brakes and the smaller reservoir is for the drum brakes is it not? Mine is plumbed backwards and I didn't know if the builder just screwed up or if they did it that way on purpose. I have the very small wilwood calipers and didn't know if that had something to do with it.

42768962.jpg


I figured I would just ask before changing it over to the way I believe it should be.

thanks,
 
Yes , generally the large reservoir is for the frt [discs] are you running drums in the rear? Also , you DID put a seal kit in the MC didn't you?
dave
 
Unfortunately when you pull a cyl. apart you usually nick the seals ,albeit it may be a tiny nick.or worn spots [from the dirty fluid]. I can't say I'd never reuse these parts ,but to be on the safe side i'd reccomend they be replaced.

dave
 
There was a time when I would change it regardless but with the current crop of people that work at auto parts stores I just can't endure the pain it will take to go there and not get what I need because I don't know the exact make and model.
 
I love my local auto parts store. Two old guys there that understand it does no good for them to ask what car the part is for. I show them the part and we go on a search to find the right replacement. The young guys in the store are lost if Billy or Joe are not there. Really lucky to have them available.
 
You sure are Jim. I used to sell parts a long time ago and we could find anything. Of course we were are gear heads and knew cars inside and out. I was at NAPA the other day trying to find a gas cap for my 56 and the one guy pulled out a catalog from under the counter and the other guy said "we have books?". If it isn't in the computer it doesn't exist. One other time I was at a local auto wreckers and I asked the counter girl if they had any fenders for a Pinto. She asked me "What is a Pinto?"

lol


Anyways, I flushed the brakes today and they don't work much better. I am going to get some brake pressure gauges and see what I am actually getting for pressure. My friend has a TP bucket a little older than mine but with Wilwood brakes and I drove it last week at CTC and his brakes worked way better than mine as well. I think I just have a problem somewhere and need to find it.
 
I have disc brakes front and rear the large reservoir is to the rear brakes.
The larger reservoir is for the drum brakes normally.
 
fordsbyjay said:
I have a thread trying to identify my spindles and I have touched on my brake issues in it but I wanted to start a new thread in the proper section as I have a few more brake questions.

http://www.tbucketeers.com/threads/spindle-identification.14512/

My car has a standard 1" Ford master cyl. I have been having some poor braking issues lately and after the suggestions in the other thread I found my brake fluid to really contaminated ( a rusty color). I pulled the m/cyl out and took it apart for inspection.

Picture091.jpg


All is well so I cleaned it out and will re-install shortly with fresh fluid and flush the brake system. One of my question has to do with the plumbing. The large reservoir is for the front disk brakes and the smaller reservoir is for the drum brakes is it not? Mine is plumbed backwards and I didn't know if the builder just screwed up or if they did it that way on purpose. I have the very small wilwood calipers and didn't know if that had something to do with it.

42768962.jpg


I figured I would just ask before changing it over to the way I believe it should be.

thanks,
Click to expand...
The June 2012 Street Rodder has a good artical on brake fluid. It pimps Amsoil products but is well written.
 
If you have 4-wheel discs get a 70's something corvette master cylinder designed for 4-wheel discs. trying to use a something not designed for the job is foolish.
 
Not yet Dave. I am still in Ohio working but I go home tomorrow. There is going to be a thrash this week to get ready for the Emerald Coast Cruizin. I have a brake pressure gauge coming to measure my pressure at the caliper so as soon I as do that I will look for the problem. It seems strange that it used to work semi alright but blows now. If it was a M/Cyl I would think the pedal would just go to the floor with no pressure instead of real hard and no braking. I know I tweeked my pedal a few years ago to make it more comfortable and I am sure it has effected my over all brake pressure/leverage but that was years ago and it has been ok since then.

Now one thing about those little brakes, they are only rated for 2000# with rear drums and my car with me and the wife is about 2250#. The tech at Wilwood thinks the pads are getting glazed over because they are getting too hot which would explain the on/off performance.

Anyways that's where I am at right now but after Emerald Coast I am planning to swap them out to a 0.81 vented rotor and 4 piston caliper. I should be able to use my current hub assy and just need new calipers and rotors. Because of the cross bread TP axle assy. I will probably have to make a caliper bracket but I can do that.
 
Update: I finally got this put behind me. I got a Wilwood brake pressure gauge and my pressure at the caliper was a dismal 400 psi. I found a small leak on my line lock so I think I just kept adding air to the system as I was bleeding. The front brake line was also routed below the m/cyl then up over the steering box then back down to the bottom of the frame which I think was where all my air was trapped. Last night I had enough and pulled the line out and made a new one that is straight along the bottom of the frame. After an hour of bleeding amazingly enough my brakes work 100% better. I tried to measure the pressure after but managed to get some air in the caliper so I had to bleed it a couple times hence the hour. I am just waiting for it to cool down so I can look underneath for any leaks.
 
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