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Model A front crossmember

M

mikesplumbing

New Member
Any of you guys running a Model A crossmember in front instead of the tube with a spring perch. I'm mocking up my frame in the garage now and began thinking of running the radiator grill in front and dropping it in front of the member.

Anybody have any advice?.....comments?.......Yes?....Good idea?.........No way, that sucks?.......Would look like hell?.......Would look great?.......

MIke
 
It would look great if you duplicated the Model A frame horns in front of the crossmember as part of the package. Just stopping the tubes at the front of the crossmember, well -- not so much.

Bob
 
bobscogin said:
It would look great if you duplicated the Model A frame horns in front of the crossmember as part of the package. Just stopping the tubes at the front of the crossmember, well -- not so much.

Bob
Click to expand...

Yep thats it. I never liked the look when the frame horns are bobbed.
 
mikeplumbing,

if i were starting on a fresh build and even thought of using an model-A chassis. i would stop and think and rethink about it..

i had the same problem, i had a roller T chassis, that someone else had started on years ago, and i had an original T body... i ened up going with the T chassis because i already had one, just had to make modifications on it. so this was going to be way cheaper and less time than an A chassis either to build or buy..

if i were starting from scratch i would build an A chassis,, no if ,and or buts about it..
 
I can't run a suicide front due to provincial laws and a provincial inspector (pain in the butt) who even has to be convinced that a straight axle is strong. Sorry... almost ranted there.
So.... I fabbed up an A-style crossmember, zeed the frame and the stepped the ends for spring clearance, all to get some drop.
I'm not sure about the style of horns I'll use because I have to run some sort of bumper.
Yes, I have to run fenders too. That doesn't bother me though.
 
Using a model A crossmember is definately an option. Just remember the spring pivots have to be far enought away from the axle to alow the radiator shell not to interfere with the axle or tie rod. A hair pin front end will be difficult to build but a split Ford wishbone would work very well. A '29 shell would require less clearance that the '32 type on that model.

Ron
 
Ah. I see what you are after.
Mine's nuttin' like that.
Ain't NO way that would fly here. They won't allow us to suspend the spring from the arms like that.
I'll sit back and hush now.
 
My c-cab build will be using a crossmember for a model A. I contacted Paul at Welder series to cut me one from 304 stainless. everything forward of the crossmember will resemble the model A framehorns otherwise my chassis is a slightly modified t chassis made of 304ss and a spring over frontend.I really havent found any major problems with what I'm doing and alot of companys sell the crossmember. This also alows you to use the Unisteer rackand pinion steering...ruggs

PS..............some assembly required
 
Save your self some Money here by making the chanel for the crossmember your self. A piece of 3/16" broke into a 2 5/8" chanel with pie cuts to drop the center 1" will do.

Ron
 
Mike,
while I agree with youngster that you can build the crossmember yourself for next to nothing I personally don't have the right equipment. My metal break only goes to 16 gauge, my plasma cutter doesn't cut 3/16 as clean as I would like so sometimes it's cheaper to pay someone the 60 or 70 dollars that you would spend on 4" cut-off wheels and grinding discs. Without the metal break your going to be building the crossmember in about 10 pieces ( who knows until you lay it all out) Just an opinion and no disrespect to any of the quality fab people on this site..........ruggs
 
Ruggs any updates on your body is it finally home? Remember we like pics.
 
Dang! I said I'd be quiet but anyone who knows me knows that it hurts me to be quiet..

Ruggs, it you have the money... buy all means buying one is quick and quite painless. :sorry:
However... I did like Ron has suggested here and took a "left over" piece from the tubing I bought for building my frame.
I first made a "crossmemeber" out of cereal box cardboard, taped it up as a tube and cut away at it. Then I transfered that learnin' to the tubing and vie-olla! I had me a crossmember.
I used 3 cut-off wheels (because I stupidly broke one), less than one grinding disc and some welding wire. I am by no means a fancy-fabber.
The only plasma work I can do involves my own plasma that I prefer to keep inside. ;)
My break is pathetic at best. :o

If you are going through discs that quickly I suggest you try better quality discs. Man.. the difference between El-Cheapo discs and "Walter" discs (the best ones around here) is amazing. The Walter lasts a long time and is only about 4 bucks here.
 
Gismo,
my opinions and numbers were only mean't for example however in my case I'm working with stainless and it even takes it's toll on the good discs. Not to mention that the ones I use on mild steel cannot be used on the ss or I'll have a contamination problem..............ruggs

Putz,
I'll post some update in just a little while with photos.............ruggs
 
Do I understand this correctly???

The radiator should sit on top of the Model A crossmember.......and the grill shell does the same......but it also extends past the crossmember and drops below it.....Is that right????

Anybody have a good photo of just a radiator sitting on top of the crossmember???

If I remember right, I can have more drop if I flatten out the crossmember unlike the original that has a dropped center......but isn't that a problem because if I flatten the crossmember the factory radiator has a bump on the bottom that prevents it from sitting down?!?!?!?!

Sorry guys, I'm just getting a little confused on how I should approach this.

Mike
 
Unless you have a custom radiator built, the shell is going to stand higher than the cowl if you mount it on top of the crossmember. If you mount it in front of the frame you will need to have the crossmember back far enough to allow for the radiator and the bottom hose. Sorry i don't have pics.

Ron
 
Mike,
You may have to do what I am doing, I'm mocking up everything on a wood frame. when the body is correctly posithioned to the rear axle centerline I will set up the engine to the cowl spacing then with the water pump and fan installed I'll determine the front crossmember and axle position and then the radiator and shell. However in my case I have front fenders to deal with at the same time......ruggs

PS...I cut my front rails way long to ensure there is enough to cut down to.
 
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