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My Project Rebuild

dovehunter79

New Member
Okay, so I decided to post pictures of my T finally. I did buy it wreck so I am having to go back through and replace the bad stuff and fix what went wrong. It was his project and now I have taken it over.:dance: I have already refab'd the traction bars and am redoing the way that the shocks were mounted. I purchased the drag link, coilovers, coilover mounting brackets, and some other odds and ends from Speedway and should be in tomorow. I will either install those tomorow night or the following night. I only have pics of the aftermath from him going through the barbed wire fence. I will post before/after pics after I mount the shocks which will be the before paint pics. The pictures are too big to post in the forum so I am going to attach them instead.
 
Looking good so far. Keep at it and before you know it, its done. Well a project is never really done. :cool:
 
Thats a cool looking tie rod.
Looks like a fun project. Keep us up to date.
 
LumenAl said:
I only have one (strong) recommendation so far... Front Brakes! Makes a huge difference when you need to stop quick... easy to add now... :biggrin:

I can hear the previous owner.....Front brakes!!! why didn't I think of that!!:dance:
 
The brakes are there, he just didnt hook them up when he went on his test drive. They will be hooked up on the next maiden flight.
 
So I got up this morning and had some things to do for the job and then is was on the work for the T. I got the new drag link set and got the front end squared, the rear end went back under the frame and the QA1 coilovers setup.(havent squared the rear end up yet) The body was pull so I can start the fiberglass repair, I also pulled the bed off(at least what was left of it). All I have left to do before I sandblast/paint is either refab the motor mount or repair it.(any comments/suggestions on that?)
 
I like the progress. Are my eyes playing tricks or are the lower shock mounts narrower than the upper?
 
dovehunter79 said:
.(any comments/suggestions on that?)


The only thing I might suggest is to replace the saddle engine mount with stock Chevy side motor mounts. The Hurst/ Ansen type saddle mounts POTENTIALLY could cause a problem if you are running an aluminum transmission, like a TH350, etc. The problem is that it puts too much strain on the bellhousing area because of the long distance between the front and rear mounts, and the bellhousing takes the load. Chevy realized this problem and went from front mounts on the tri5 cars to side mounts later on.

I know lots of guys are running saddle mounts, but like I said, it is only a possible problem, not an absolute. Just thought I would mention that while you are still fabbing stuff up.

Don
 
DH i am using the side ford type mount easy to install and i like the look. I got mine from chassis engineering 85.00. But ron {RPM} may make the brackets and the support was 18.00 for a set. Man u r lookin good.
 
Thanks guys, i think i might actually have a few of those mounts laying around. Good idea!!!! I am also going to build a cage for the driveshaft just in case the unexpected happens.

Also, what is the besta way to mount the body to the frame? set the body weld some angle iron on the inside of the frame, drill holes and then bolt it together? 20' ratchet strap around the whole thing?:welcome: Just trying to find out what has worked best for everyone? Thanks
 
dovehunter79 said:
...what is the besta way to mount the body to the frame? ...

IMHO, I'd weld some (2x2) angle iron at 6 points... 4 for the main floor and a couple in the bed area if the body and bed are all one unit... I used 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts and washers to secure... where the body meets the tabs you've welded on, I'd do some kind of rubber... :welcome:
 
Since there was soo much controversy on the whole 1/2" grade 8 bolt on another post, I went with 3/8" bolt hole... set the body, marked and welded 2" angle to the frame...

So once that got done, I pushed the old bird out behind the shop and sandblasted the frame and all rolling chassis parts... pulled it in and primed it all... It was too cold to shoot the paint so I will have to wait until the weather warms up... Hopefully if the weatherman is right, I will be able to shoot it on Wednesday as it will be around 75-ish..

I will post pics when after the paint has cured and have it back together. time to start working on the body
 
dovehunter79 said:
...Since there was soo much controversy on the whole 1/2" grade 8 bolt on another post, I went with 3/8" bolt hole... set the body, marked and welded 2" angle to the frame...

I don't know if it was so much a controversy, just me getting accused of overkill and that ain't the only time that's ever happened... :D

I'm sure 3/8" will be just fine... but like I said, I was big time motivated to secure the body on after seeing this after the "cruising to Colby" show...

WreckedT-Bucket.jpg
 
3/8" is perfect, just rubber is a no no, but if you do it right just like a stock car, then you are doing the rubber thing right, if not done that way, just bolt the body to the tabs (why angle? when only tabs are needed, I hate to see angle used anywhere on a nice T frame... as it is not any stronger... and make sure you use lock nuts and fender type washers (large) on the body side..
 
Ted Brown said:
(why angle? when only tabs are needed, I hate to see angle used anywhere on a nice T frame...

I dont have an explanation as to why I used angle iron(habit maybe? didnt think of the tab? i dunno honestly, just did)... Whether its angle iron or just tabs, it all holds the same and you will never see it when the body is on.
 

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