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Mykk's BMW V8 T-bucket, version 1.5:

I was expecting some tolerance differences and not fretting over 0.5 degree discrepancy. I would love to see perfect marks, but variables happen. I did my best to try to align the angle of the dial indicator with the angle of the lifter in the head so they moved equally but the discrepancy could even be in the angle of the dangle. The bank 2 cams have a longer snout on them to compensate for the B1 to B2 offset.

This engine family finds it's way into various performance markets; Alpina, Dinan, AC Schnitzer... Even saw a video of one in a De Tomaso Pantera. Any camshaft variances would have been long picked over 20 years ago.

And that's okay, I knew what I was getting into.

 
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Mykk - It has to be a kick to know that your power train is unique in a T-bucket. I bet you never tire of the question, "What engine is that???" 😁
 
And that's okay, I knew what I was getting into.
With the power output they are getting out of much smaller packages these days and the weight of the typical T, any V8 is more presence than requirement. Just like an old musical genre, you can follow the 'rules' and make a new tune in that style.
I'm kind of amazed there hasn't been a Track T that follows the style of the 40s with a modern 4 cylinder. I'd guess the DOHC would be too tall.
110904-vi.jpg
 
Got the cams timed today. I swear the Car Gods were messing with me on this one. If a cam was one degree off, I'd adjust it the one degree then somehow it was 3 degrees off in the opposite direction. X 4 cams

Continued to paint stuffs. Painted a valve cover silver. I like it so much more in person I'll run with silver valve covers for now. I can always change them later.







 
I told myself I wasn't going to do this entire engine in black oxide socket cap bolts. That didn't last very long.







The black oxide bolts tend to eventually rust. So I soaked each bolt in oil for a bit then cleaned off, we'll see if that prolongs the inevitable.
 
Progress has stagnated a bit as life just keeps happening.


Had an out of town gig at a motorcycle rally for Az Bike Week. Loaded up Bucket #1 on the trailer, along with the music equipment and headed south for a few days.





Once back home the weather was about perfect and couldn't resist a cruise out to nowhere and back.





Now back in the warehouse, it's time to keep moving forward.











I've had another set of velocity stacks for the throttles; bigger, taller, prettier. The port sizes are good however the bolt patterns aren't.



It'll take some foolery, drilling & tapping extra holes to get there but I think it'll look good once together.

I think I may be painting myself into a corner here, I'm not sure how I'm going to lift this engine with the cherry picker. Burn that bridge when we get to it.

 
A man of many talents! I recognize those locations!
I found an issue with mine, hopefully it's just the small problem and not deeper.
 
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Broken valve spring. This is my first SBC after a lifetime of being a Mopar guy.
I think I've got away from further damage. Pumped up the cylinder and very little leakdown. No big whoosh out the exhaust. Popped the retainer and keepers loose and got it all off. New spring is coming up from PHX, be here in the PM. They have a spring compressor to borrow/rent.
Then if all is well, back to getting the new intake and carb sorted. We shall see.
 
Original Dual-Mass flywheel:



Aluminum lightweight flywheel:



Removed crank trigger tone ring, not used in this build.



Pressure Plate:



Friction Disc:



27.5 lbs accumulative rotational mass behind the engine.
 
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Sorting the ignition coil wiring through the distributor.



Since each length of guitar speaker cable has two 16ga wires, each coil gets a white (+12v) and black (+5v trigger). I've tied the B1 whites together and the B2 whites together, using the same speaker cable in the coil terminal the B1 whites are on the coil white wire and the B2 whites are on the black coil wire. This way B1 ignition coils and B2 ignition coils get their own fused +12v power supply.

The coils trigger wires get paired together for waste spark. Cyl 1 & 6, 5 & 3, 4 & 7, 8 & 2 all paired together and then the four trigger wires run out the base of the distributor.





I'm considering adding a capacitor to each banks coil power supply.



I could hollow out a canister ignition coil, run the power feed wires into the faux coil and have the capacitors inside the canister coil, ground the capacitors in the canister... then run B1 and B2 power to the canister coil terminals.... I'm just thinking out loud here.



 
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Beautiful design and creation. Well thought out and all makes sense.
I haven't seen any caps on the feed side, but haven't dug deep on modern stuff for a while.
I fully understand that you are going full on into max performance and I tend toward a KISS approach.

So these are possibly dumb questions.

I remember 'scoping cars in the shop and also shop class on how coils work. A coil will only produce the minimum amount needed to complete the path. It might be rated for 60K, but at idle no load, it will only produce 5-15K. Under hard acceleration, heavy load and especially with forced induction the demands rise. It usually takes a lot of each to require more than a well sized coil with a good power and clean ground trigger. This is especially true when comparing old single coil systems to modern coil on plug applications.
You are going above and beyond, and I am enjoying following along. You haven't shown data logs and I would be like a 1st grader reading PHD dissertations anyway.
But I wonder First how often is this dipping into high demand situations? Very light car with well refined HP engine on the streets means a few seconds at most to my mind. I understand chasing that last 1%. Just wondering if it's even that much. That should show up on logs.

Second, are you able to actually see demand per coil or cylinder pressure? Not a derived number, but perhaps crank acceleration? With paired coil triggers on the ground side, I don't know if it would be possible for the PCM to see amp draw from the coils. Maybe a stand alone 'scope on the power side at each coil?

I guess what I'm really asking is are caps actually needed at all? I guess this sounds like someone asking why you need a DOHC and supercharged V8 in a car that weighs under 2 thousand pounds but no fenders! I am not coming at you like that. It just seems like it's adding headroom to an area that has plenty already, like a second oil pump to a well designed setup.
I admire and appreciate stuff that has designed in worst case and above expected use, like engines that can be modified to deliver reliable power increases without major rework. Transmission design and selection that can support more torque than the stock engine, not requiring the engine to be detuned to survive (Espirit V8).
I also think some places where simple and reliable need added complexity. I have watched lots of Matt Armstrong's videos and wonder why light unsealed electronic controls are placed at the lowest point in a tub (lots of supercars) or why the Bugatti requires splitting the chassis for a lot of servicing but does not have a main harness connector at that point.
 
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Most OE's have caps somewhere in the wiring looms for individual coils on the power wires. More prevalent in the 90's & 00's than in today's vehicles.

It's electrical noise filtering more so than power supply for sudden higher demand, although it provides that too.

Electrical noise from ignition coils (and alternator diodes) wreaks havok on DIY standalone EFI projects. Usually showing up as sync loss as the electrical noise interferes with crank sensor signs, but also shows up on data logs as sudden random spikes of sensor values on the coolant temp, TPS and map sensors.

Technically grounding the coils at the cylinder heads resolves system electrical noise as the spark discharge has a smaller magnetic loop back to the ignition coil when grounded on the heads. But, more filtering the better as long as it doesn't soften the response.

These ignition coils have a normal dwell around 2.5ms @13.8v , but crank up the dwell to 4-6ms and the current draw gets up to 12-15a each with a monster spark.
 
Wow, thanks! I wasn't aware they had those in the loop. Appreciate the education. Noise from a collapsing field makes sense as a use for them.
As you alluded, I was thinking more as a power storage and supply use,
The dwell time also makes sense going from (V8) 4 times per revolution with a single coil (so 90 degrees each minus open) to once for the pair of shared coils (360 degrees minus open).

Will you be going to this? I'd like to meet you there.
That sounds strange!!!😜🤪😁
Mine isn't going to meet the standards for the show, so just spectating.
SPARK-PLUG-POSTCARD-2-2026.jpeg
 
Moving forward on the ignition coil idea.









It'll be a little tricky getting the power wires on the coil terminals inside the housing. I'm thinking of knocking out the existing terminals. Putting eyelets on the wires and using small bolts from the inside with the threads exposed on top as the terminals. Paying mind not to let anything touch and ground out the inside of the coil body.... Except for the capacitors.
 
Any way to cut the coil top loose from the main body? Maybe an oil filter cutter for a clean cut or just a die grinder.
With 3D printing and such, I'd imagine making something like the old Stash Cans where the top unscrews and allows easy access.
Make it a quarter turn so you aren't twisting too much.

Then it's a matter of allowing normal looking stud and nut on top for the feed wires and still having a solid connector underneath.
Solder the nut and stud like a Ford exhaust stud, That allows removal of the top wiring.

with an internal threaded sleeve in the top which has external threads and a nut to connect inside.
It sounds a bit fiddly, but with a bit more thought should be fairly serviceable.
 

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