one finger john
Active Member
For second I thought that was a connected bat room.
New toy arrives
- Thread starter Gerry
- Start date
Keeper
Active Member
Sounds about right. If I chop off the half that has my wifes toy, I have about 9x19. But you seem to have a ton of more stuff!
A heater in there will make you a happy camper. I installed one last winter and love it. Dayton G73, one of the better investments I have made for the shop.
Ted Brown
Member
Now for all the home operators all you need is 3 phase power which you can make yourself, using a larger HP 3 phase motor, started with a small 110 or whatever wall power you have, and then the larger 3 phase motor will run on it's own and give you the power to run that Lathe... this way it will back up instantly, which is a real necessity while operating Mills and lathes ... 
Google how to make your own 3 phase power...
Google how to make your own 3 phase power...
fordsbyjay
Active Member
Congrats Jerry. We could almost start a thread on small garages. LOL. I moved from a 28x30 to a 20x20 carport with an 8x20 enclosed area. I am a master at making space from nothing but I am pretty much full as I can get. When I get home if I remember I will post up some pics.
Ted Brown
Member
For all of us collectors of "stuff" no matter what size space we have, soon it will be full to over flowing, seems like most everything is or will be useful in the future, and save money in the long run WE THINK!! hehe I wonder at times about this... I am now thinking I would rather have the space and the freedom of clutter, which I think I have never had that pleasure, for long Gerry, what size through hole does that new toy give you? and now you may need a cat flap or doggy door in the wall to let you do longer tubes, stick it through the wall to the outside when turning, both ends need that room, I have found, so being in a tight corner is only good for small or short turnings... ya think?
Gerry, what size through hole does that new toy give you? and now you may need a cat flap or doggy door in the wall to let you do longer tubes, stick it through the wall to the outside when turning, both ends need that room, I have found, so being in a tight corner is only good for small or short turnings... ya think?
Gerry
Well-Known Member
Headstock has a 26mm hole through it which is pretty good. 500mm between centers. I have not bolted it down as its so heavy it stays put under its own weight. Luckily I have access to a larger 3 phase lather which allows long stuff to be turned. Im also looking forward to the day I can have a clear up and get a little more room, but T has to be finished first. Not sure it will ever be 'finished' but I live in hope. There is always thing that can be redone or pretty'd up after its officially done.
Gerry
Gerry
spike
New Member
Gerry,
I don't know if you would need my help, but for 15 years I sold carbide cutting tools for a major supplier. I also taught carbide failure analysis and how to select the proper speeds & feeds according to the mat'l being cut & the grade of carbide being used. I would be glad to help if needed.
Spike
Gerry
Well-Known Member
All help is welcome. I have bought a set of tip tools. When they get here I will post a pic. Your advice on cutting speeds would be great as my 'knowledge' is mostly with HSS ones. Oh I dont have coolant which I understand you should used with tip tools.
Gerry
spike
New Member
Actually you can use carbide inserts successfully without coolant. In fact mat'ls such as carbon & alloy steels sometimes perform better running dry especially when turning an interrupted cut or in milling. Certain types of stainless steel can cause problems due to the fact that it heats up quickley. The bottom line is that if you know the mat'l you are cutting and some type of grade designation for the carbide you are using, we can make it work. A good rule of thumb you can use is to take the RPM you are using with HSS & multiply it by 4 to give you the RPM for carbide. The feed rate should be the same for both and should only be adjusted according to the finish you are looking for on your part. I.E. slower feed will produce a finer finish than a faster feed. If you can give me a few details, I can give you RPM, feed rate & depth of cut.
spike
New Member
I would stick to HSS for the brass, but consider carbide for SS & MS.
316 & 304 (austenitic stainless)will run at about 280 Surface Feet per Minute or SFM (stay with me regarding sfm for a minute).
Mild Steel will run at about 400 SFM. The cool thing about any carbon steel is that you can adjust your RPM up or down according to the color of the chip. Silver or straw colored chips means not enough rpm. Black colored chips means too much rpm. The ideal color is blue. Also with mild steel you will get a dull or sometimes hairy looking finish if the rpm is too slow.
All mat'ls have a temperature range where they like to be machined. Think of rpm as temperature. the faster the rpm the hotter the actual cut temperature becomes. Think of sfm as the temperature the mat'l likes to be machined at.
Here is the formula that ties this all together:
Recomended sfm x 3.82 divided by the diameter you are machining = RPM
EXAMPLE: 400 sfm x 3.82 = 1,528....... 1,528 divided by a 5" dia cut = 305 RPM
Note: the sfm will remain the same, but the RPM changes according to the diameter being machined.
Gerry
Well-Known Member
Thanks Spike. Now I have the basics as a starting point. Not too hard to calculate where I should be for speed n feed. I have some tips for alloy at work. Got them to refinish pump faces and they are just awesome. They look like polished black chrome and cut like I ve never seen. Hope one of my new tools will have the same fitting so I can 'borrow' one!!!
G
G
spike
New Member
Too bad you don't live closer as I have a mess of old "trunk stock" I could give you. If you run into trouble, PM me. machinig problems are usaully easy to fix based on the failure mode.
