I bought a T Bucket project and it has a Jaguar rear end. The problem I see is that where the driveshaft hooks into the differential, it is offset by about two inches from the middle of the car, while the transmission sits right in the middle. Is there a way to make this work? I don't think I can have an angled driveshaft? Here's a picture of the rear, sorry about the boxes. Thanks.
Offset Jaguar Rear End?
- Thread starter Brett
- Start date
Gerry
Well-Known Member
Brett
I am running a jag IRS with an offset diff. My propshaft runs at an angle, so theres no problem so long as you use 2 UJs. One at the diif and one at the transmission. Pics available if you need them but check out the gallery
Gerry
ellis8500
Member
Many Buckets have Ford 8.8 rear ends with a 2" offset from center. An angled drive shaft will work just fine as long as the angle is not over 4 degrees. As long as the drive shaft is at least 30" long, you will be less than 4 degrees. Someone with more knowledge of such things can give us a better number.
Gerry
Well-Known Member
Brett
I will measure it up, but take a look at any narrowed Jag IRS rear end and note how much angle these move through when the suspension moves. Its a LOT. 4 degrees sound like its way on the safe side.
Also we have learned by experience if a shaft with UJs in it is set up too straight (not enough angle) The UJs eventually seize up from lack of movement. We have narrowed Jag IRS where the drive shafts were only 8'' long and run at angles you would not believe without any problems. These 8'' shaft were in a 2 ton saloon with a Dodge hemi in it and 12'' wide tyres. It used to burn out like a Funny Car.
By the way is yours an Independent or Live axle set up?
Gerry
Thanks Gerry,
You're helping me a lot, I freaked when I took out the poorly constructed floor and saw the difference between the differential and the transmission. It's a live axle. I'm not sure what model jag it's from, I bought the T Bucket as a project, the rear end looks awesome though, really beefy. It's a live axle with four springs and shocks. The brake rotors are on it but I don't have any calipers. Do you have any tips on rear brakes?
You're helping me a lot, I freaked when I took out the poorly constructed floor and saw the difference between the differential and the transmission. It's a live axle. I'm not sure what model jag it's from, I bought the T Bucket as a project, the rear end looks awesome though, really beefy. It's a live axle with four springs and shocks. The brake rotors are on it but I don't have any calipers. Do you have any tips on rear brakes?
Gerry
Well-Known Member
Brett.
When you say Live axle with 4 Coil overs do you mean and independent. Not a solid axle right across the side. Pic may help
This is a modified Jag rear end . You should have 4 coil overs. " each side either side of the bottom arms. Is that right
Standard Jag calipers and disk are very good. they stop a 2-3 ton car so on a bucket they work well. Have to say here that all Jags use servos on their brakes. Not sure if you have the room or want a servo on yours. A lot of UK guys run Jag IRS and live axle set ups as they are common place.
I am running jag 'racing' disk on my rear end with 4 pot JFZ calipers. No servo just a long brake pedal lever.
Gerry
Ted Brown
Member
Short drive shafts and hard angles, I stagger the U joints when/after cutting them, this works out fine, contrary to popular belief. Lets the joints work at a much greater angle without binding... Especially helps in steering shafts... Not to worry about the trans-pinion difference in alignment, as it will never get any greater angle in that direction... Drive safe 
Gerry
Well-Known Member
Short drive shafts and hard angles, I stagger the U joints when/after cutting them, this works out fine, contrary to popular belief. Lets the joints work at a much greater angle without binding... Especially helps in steering shafts... Not to worry about the trans-pinion difference in alignment, as it will never get any greater angle in that direction... Drive safe
Ted
This is new to me. We were always taught that the UJs on the end of a shaft HAVE to be perfectly in line. As on the drive shaft on a Jag IRS. So we spend time when shortening them to make sure the UJ yokes are in line.
From your post it seems that they can be offset to each other by 90 degrees and work just fine? Cool Ive just learnt something new.
By the way we were told many years ago you could not shorten a Jag IRS drive shaft to less than 10'' without them binding up. Prooved that one wrong... even with a big block Hemi pushing them
Gerry
Ted Brown
Member
Gerry, test it for yourself, when it is all welded up and at 90 degrees difference, the unit is really dumb, it does not know the difference, that is what the Joint is for... Let's face it, us Hot Rodders have proven even the slide rule WRONG... as it is mathematically impossible to go over 150 MPH in the 1/4 mile in a drag car... I don't know FOR SURE about you, but I love to break the so called rules, I mean!! Who made them in the first place??? ... hehe
You don't win by following...
Gerry
Well-Known Member
Guys
Help me out here I m confused. In the UK we call a solid axle a 'live' axle and an independent and independent. I am not sure what you are running Brett.
Gerry
Gerry
Well-Known Member
Gerry, test it for yourself, when it is all welded up and at 90 degrees difference, the unit is really dumb, it does not know the difference, that is what the Joint is for... Let's face it, us Hot Rodders have proven even the slide rule WRONG... as it is mathematically impossible to go over 150 MPH in the 1/4 mile in a drag car... I don't know FOR SURE about you, but I love to break the so called rules, I mean!! Who made them in the first place??? ... hehe
Ted
If you say it works thats good enough for me, plus logically why should n't it. The only thing I would say is if you get the two 'yokes'(trunnions) slightly off from dead in lne or 90 degrees they have all sorts of problem with knocking and wear.
Talking about breaking the rules have a look at the tread about EFI and 02 sensors. Thats an eye opener
Gerry
Ted Brown
Member
Yes I was reading all that.. O2 sensors will be standard if the Gov has anything to do with it.. I plan to run a totally stock engine, exhaust and all, but will make it LOOK like a wild hot rod engine, doing a COVER/HOOD that will have big valve covers and a wild intake of 1 type or another, got to join and beat the system at the same time, plus now the header system that shows will not be HOT and can be any color you like...
If that don't fake um out, nothing will.. hehe I am tired of all the loud sounds anyway, just draws all the wrong attention, for an old guy like me.. I would rather disappear down the road, without a sound, leaving them to really wonder, what was that??? I'll try to upload a picture again tomorrow, the rear axle looks like Gerry's, but the shocks run vertical to the frame. I appreciate all the advice. I plan on a 350 turbo transmission with a 350 crate engine. The engine I have looks good and there's a powerglide in it now (that looks like it was found in a riverbed.) It seems easiest to put a 350 tranny in it...
Gerry
Well-Known Member
Brett.
Thats what i am using. A 350 350 combo but my wheelbase is very short. At a guess my prop shaft will be about 8'' long. You may want to have a think about repositioning your coilovers at an angle as they work better. Also a trick in the UK was to loose two of them for a better set up... unless the springs have been change for softer ones. The original ones hold up a car MUCH heavier than a T
Gerry
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