It works just fine, but you need to prep things up, before you paint.
Clean the tubes. No, I mean cleaner than that. Sandblast them, or beadblast them, then scrub them down with some Tide laundry detergent and some screaming hot water. No, I mean hotter than that. Allow them enough time to dry, and try not to blow them dry, unless you are absolutely sure your air is clean and dry. Once they are rinsed clean, do not touch them without wearing rubber gloves. The oil in your hands will get on the tubes and will keep the paint from properly curing to the tube.
Don't be shy about laying on the paint, either. Make sure everything gets a heavy coat.
I have used VHT paint twice. Once in the 70's and once in the 80's. I had the headers sand blasted and cleaned with lacquer thinner one of the times. I wasted my time and money. An oven might help to cure the paint. I fired the engine up briefly and increased the run time after each cooling period. Long story, short, after raising the hood on a gentle drive, the white paint was making potato chips on the headers. I thought I might have not done something right the first time, hence the second attempt. It may work well on less extreme heat, but for headers, not for me. Just to save you some time and money. Do not waste your time on Eastwoods ceramic header coating. It will work you to death and eventually fail also. It does last 30 minutes longer than VHT. After pricing ceramic coatings, I just bought a set of coated headers. Hate to be negative, but it is what it is.
I have never had any luck with any paint on headers either. There are very specific drying instructions to properly cure the coatings and without a oven, I don't think its possible to do. I doubt it would last anyways from my experience. If you have a better experience with something, please let us know!
I used the VHT Flame Proof header paint [1300-2000 deg] and have had success so far. Had headers sand blasted, then cleaned with laquer thinner, painted two thin coats and let air dry. Cured on the engine according to the instructions. Did have to redo some spots because paint was too thick. For this to work you have to have a thin coat...just enough to cover metal. Too thick and you'll notice right away when you fire up the engine.
Yes....the secret is clean, clean, and clean. Then, several thin coats....if no ceramc coating, paint, then wrap. Exhaust systems rust, period. Unless done correctly.
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