Pulling an engine without the tranny?

[Lee_in_KC]

I need to pull the engine out of my bucket. Normally I would pull the engine and tranny (TH350) out as a unit, but to do that I would need to remove the body. I really don't want to do that as I would have to cut all the wiring between the body and the chassis. Yes, I should have been smart enough to use plugs but I didn't.

I can get to all the bolts holding the block to the tranny bellhousing, and I can unbolt the converter and leave it on the tranny input shaft. I would need to put a jackstand under the tranny to hold it up.

So what could possibly go wrong?!?! It seems like getting the block out would be relatively easy. But getting it back in? Hmmm...

 

[2old2fast]

i left my trans in the last time I pulled the engine , worked great !!
dave

 

[Lee_in_KC]

i left my trans in the last time I pulled the engine , worked great !!
dave

How tough was it to get everything lined up going back in?

 

[benT]

We've done it a bunch of times this way. In fact about a month ago, we pulled the motor on Dennis' bucket to switch out the converter. Its not too difficult, but like taking one out with a trans attached, you need at least one buddy to guide. It will also help to have someone turning the engine over to bolt the converter to the flywheel when you install.

When we did swaps and engine pulls on non-T projects, we usually has the engine and trans separated - you don't have to remove as much in front of the engine to accommodate the trans length.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Not a problem, my block has studs that go thru the bellhousing, even have studs in my converter. Makes it faster to stab it back in....
I like the speed and ease of it....I can pull the motor and have it on its stand in about 35 minutes, taking my time....

 

[one finger john]

Take your time, have a friend nearby, you will be surprised at how quickly it will come out. Pull the other head so the short block is balanced.

Easy peasy.

John

 

[2old2fast]

If you don't have 1 already , an engine "leveler" makes things much easier , both pulling & re-installing.... block your trans after raising everything a bit [I use a bottle jack & a chunk of 2x12
dave

 

[2old2fast]

I've no idea how much guidance you need but I'll add.... unbolt the converter first , slide it back [should push back 1/4 - 1/2 " , after supporting the trans. & the engine , unbolt the bell , slide the engine forward an inch or so , then pull it....... if you haven't done it , drain the coolant out of the block before you pull it [less mess] , any ?? feel free to ask
dave
Oh yea , while you've got the engine out , change the front seal in the trans..

 

[Lee_in_KC]

It's out and on the stand...

Now to decide on it's replacement...

 

[Lee_in_KC]

my block has studs that go thru the bellhousing, even have studs in my converter.

Yep, I have studs from the block to the bellhousing as well. I'm thinking that's going to help a lot putting the new one in. I hadn't thought about studs in the converter. I'll put that on my ever-growing list of what to do different next time!!

 

[2old2fast]

Boy , that was easy , I didn't even break a sweat !!!
dave

 

[Lee_in_KC]

Boy , that was easy , I didn't even break a sweat !!!
dave

It's the fourth time I've taken out the motor, but the first time without the tranny. It WAS easy-peasy!!

 

[one finger john]

Did you verify that there was a crack in the lifter valley. If not, you're money ahead.

John

To be honest I have never seen a crack in that area.

 

[Lee_in_KC]

Did you verify that there was a crack in the lifter valley. If not, you're money ahead.

How would I verify there is a crack short of getting it Magnafluxed?

 

[Lee_in_KC]

Well shucks, I wiped off the crack area with some lacquer thinner, and behold...

I'd say that's a crack!! Block is a boat anchor, now. Right?

 

[RPM]

How would I verify there is a crack short of getting it Magnafluxed?

Put the head back on, with a gasket and torque it down. Make 2 small pieces to go over the water ports at either end of the head. Remove the water drain plug in the side of the block, and install an air fitting. Then use your leak down checker to pressurize the water jacket to about 20 psi. check for cracks with soapy water in a windex bottle.

 

[RPM]

Well shucks, I wiped off the crack area with some lacquer thinner, and behold...

I'd say that's a crack!! Block is a boat anchor, now. Right?

Could just be a casting mark.

 

[2old2fast]

Kinda looks like it ...
dave

 

[Lee_in_KC]

Put the head back on, with a gasket and torque it down. Make 2 small pieces to go over the water ports at either end of the head. Remove the water drain plug in the side of the block, and install an air fitting. Then use your leak down checker to pressurize the water jacket to about 20 psi. check for cracks with soapy water in a windex bottle.

Dang Ron, you're gonna hafta bump me up a couple of pay grades to do that much work!! It doesn't show in the pic, but I can see a hairline running right down the center of that smudge. I'll try to get a better pic. Considering there was a puddle of coolant under it and oil wasn't sticking to the block below the "crack," I'm pretty confident there's a crack there. If I try to sell the short block, I will certainly disclose that there may be a crack there.

 

[one finger john]

"may" be a crack ?