Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

Purple Powder Pickup

I made my reservations. I see it will be over 100 for the next few days.
 
Hey Ben those steering arms look like super bell? I found some here local that I believe may work for my front end. loving the car
John
 
Yes, those are Super Bells. I had them left over from my '27 project -I used a 6" dropped axle so I needed dropped arms. They worked good withe the '51 Ford truck spindles we used!
 
Time for the long-overdue update!

We're closing on on it fast. I'm happy to say that chassis is 100% complete and ready to go. In the last month or three, we've gotten the drivetrain completely finished as well. The wiring is 99% complete (only the license plate lights to wire), the plumbing is 100% complete, the M/C is mounted, pedal works, and the brakes have had a preliminary bleed. The steering column is completely fabricated, the shaft is done and everything steers and works properly. the windshield frame was fabricated from 7/8" solid aluminum we milled and has been put together. The dash panel is done and painted and the gauges done (photos do not show the dash installed). the latest hurdle we accomplished was modifying and making the shifter linkage.

Instead of taking the easy (read $$) way out on the shifter, we picked up a rusted and frozen early mustang shifter at the swap meet for $10. We blasted, cleaned ,rebushed, trimmed the mounting and then whacked the handle off and welded an extension made from 5/8" chrome moly bent in more of a swan shape. We then had to remake the cable within and make sure it still operated properly. Once we had the operation working properly, we made custom linkage to connect the ford shifter to the Chevy T350. After a little adjustment, it works properly and we have about $15 invested + our time.

We still have the emergency brake and the gas pedal to mount, as well as mounting the windshield frame and getting glass cut.

We'll be starting it this next week and if all goes well, perhaps driving it some next weekend! The plan is to get it mechanically sound and wrapped up this month, then pull the body off of it for paint this winter. Hopefully, we'll get it into upholstery by early January. The goal is to have it done to be put in our booth at the Indy World of Wheels in February.

Hare are a few pics I took today:






 
Looking good. I have been wondering how things were going together. Let us know about your test run.
Lee
 
Lookin' good, Ben!

Jim
 
Well, we got it rolled outside this morning, filled it with water and a few gallons of gas. We've been on a pretty good streak now as we've been able to start our rebuilt engines on the first try for about 5 builds now. This one was no exception! Even with a used Ebay carb that we have not rebuilt yet, it started on the first try after we primed the oil and fuel pumps. Once it started (after this video) we got the timing set right and it purrs like a kitty. Should be a good smooth runner - '66 283, stock bore with fresh hone and rings, mild cam, mild aftermarket heads, older edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock 500, and a reman stock distributor with a pertronix kit. Only issue is the pan gasket - it is a stock felpro type, and I think we're gonna swap it for a 1-peice rubber type as it has a small leak at the rear main seal (pretty typical!).

Anyway here's a short video of the first start and a few pics of it outside.




 
Would love to see a few closeups of the wood in the body? :whistling:

I second that ! Pics of the interior ! That would help my build too . nice job.

Here are a few shots of the interior wooding. Nothing fancy. Since these cars are narrow to begin with, we decided on just using plywood for the wooding. Most of it is 5/8" osb or plywood. We cut fit and they glued each piece to the body with liquid nails. Once they were all in place, we glassed them in with about 3 layers of mat and cloth. At the corners, we just cut up small pieces to make the inside radius. Behind the seat there are tall triangular pieces that acts as a back support/stiffner.

The braces/seat riser across the floor is 1x4 popular. The floor is 3/4" marine plywood and the firewall is 1/2" plywood adhered to the firewall and glassed around the perimeter. Its all super stiff.

When we pull the body for bodywork and paint, I'll probably add some additional fiberglass in a few areas as necessary. We'll also fill the small gap between the top of the side wood and on the top piece of wood at the top body lip with kitty hair bondo so the body will have a nice smooth transition.





Oh yeah, we decided to redo the shifter again as it was a bit too tall and the 'T' handle was too intrusive. Here's a teaser:
 

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