Man, that was a tough lesson to learn on PVA. I feel for ya. I'm sure you know now, but for others in the future, while PVA does create a barrier between parts, you still need a waxed hard candy shell on the mold. Something that's non-porous, wether it be a 2K surface primer or foil tape, etc. The PVA will just absorb into bare wood, cardboard or plaster and not help at all.
Finished with FeatherFill G2, smoothed to 220 grit and waxed with a mold release. Not car wax.
Then the PVA is truly a "floating barrier" between the parts.
I'm glad you got it worked out. And believe me, I know the grief in a sticky mold that comes off in pieces. I've had them too.
Not very professional but I've had good luck w/the clear packing tape & the "clingy" kitchen wrap for making small parts...If you know someone who has access to the 2" wide rolls of "packing wrap" that works good also..
dave
As I had the body on its own I thought I may as well do some paint on it in the colour I finally decided on. Many years ago I spent a small fortune on a complete House of Kolor Candy red system. The whole lot, from primer to finished top coat, but as The T was yellow to begin with and I like lighter colours on small bodies I decided to buy some 'Bright Yellow' and give it a quick blow over.
Usual stuff of sanding, guide coats, DA, filler, DA, hand blocking, and so it went on.
I will now hand it over to pictures as there is not a lot more to say. The final result was, for me, just perfect. A One piece body with the floor molded in. Strength, shiny on the bottom and made to fit my chassis. There are one or two things that bug me a little but unless I take molds of the whole thing and start again, I will live with them.
Just for future reference the guy who did the original body (a VERY well respected UK rodder) told me that to stop the top of the cowl from getting a downward curve the mold should be split at the feature lines each side and NOT in the middle...
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