Question about Spindles

[RexRod]

Starting to collect bits for my project, and I have a question about early 37-41 Ford spindles. I have not purchased any kind of rod parts for over 25 years, so to say I am out of the loop is an understatement.

Most people are selling these early spindles for about $250 dollars a pair. Some claim forged and some say nodular iron (cast). Some with or without pins for about the same price. Seems reasonable to me.

Then I stumble across this guy selling spindles with out pins for $125 a pair. Claims they are forged from 4140.
eBay Motors: FORD 1928-1948 SPINDLES 1937-41 KING PINS (item 260252878734 end time Jul-17-08 23:11:45 PDT)

I learned a long time ago, if something is super cheap, there is a good reason.

I already know about the problem with the China tapered roller bearings, but are they making spindles to?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

David

 

[donsrods]

Well, he states in his ad that these are exactly the same ones Speedway is selling, and if that is true, they aren't too bad quality-wise. We bought a set of the Chevy spindles he is also selling for my Kid's T (from Speedway), and they are very nice and everything fit perfectly, plus nice machining.

His feedback is 100%, and that says something. I think you would be ok, certainly better than using 80 year old originals (which I am currently using and have used for years with zero problems). He has evidently found the exact source Speedway uses, which is very possible. Speedway buys some stuff from people like Total Performance and others in the industry, so finding their source wouldn't be very hard.

Don

 

[Duke]

The 100% Feedback is very hard to get, you really have to go the extra step to get that. He has been an Ebay member since 2001, so he has been around. I think I would go for it.

 

[RexRod]

Thanks for the responses!

I did a little more homework. By the time I buy a king pin set, add the cost of fitting the pins to the spindles, it works out to be the exact same price Speedway is selling theirs for with fitted king pins.

So not as smoking of a deal as it looks.

From what I have seen from my limited searching, Speedway seems to be pretty competitive for individual components. I have heard mixed messages about their quality though.

I have to be careful with my research. I tend to lean toward "analysis paralysis."

Take care,

David

 

[Youngster]

I've been buying parts from Speedway for many, many years. Only had a problem once. I called them and had the right part two days later. The quality isn't like P&J's but the price reflects that too. it would take something pretty major for me to turn my back on Bill and his crew.

Ron

 

[LKE]

I probably shouldn't post this, but since I am kinda posting anonomously, I think I will be OK
Recently a big wholesaler had spindles on sale for, I wanna say, $109 a pair, in bulk quantities. This guy very well could have bought a small quantity, And is just selling them now for a minimal profit. I thought about buying a quantity, but summer is my shops slow time. I beleive the sale ended thursday july 3. So. No I can't hook anyone up on spindles

 

[donsrods]

My experience and feelings about Speedway are like Ron's. I have bought from them for over 20 years, and have been very happy with them in almost every respect. We did have a chrome steering arm for the Corvair box in my Kid's T snap in half when I was going about 35 , but when I called them about it they immediately started testing the ones in their inventory and ultimately pulled them from their lineup. They no longer carry that particular cast arm.

But I think it speaks highly that they refunded our money (actually TWO arms failed, one rounded out in the spines after one drive around our parking lot, and the other one broke in half) and they reacted immediately and pulled the suspect items from their shelves.


Don

 

[Youngster]

I haven't used any of the 'New" spindles out there. In all the years I've been messing around with this old stuff, I have yet to see a stock spindle fail. These things are bullitproof. Another thing to consider when buying these after market spindles is they don't have arms on them. That's another $75 to $100 you have to spend on them.

On honing spindle bushings, I have only had one set honed and that set was replaced at less than 10,000 miles. With todays manufacting process', they are pretty close to where they need to be. I like to see a little force needed to install a king pin. Just make sure they are well greased before hitting the open road. JMO

Ron

 

[RexRod]

I have noticed the 42-48(?) Ford spindles seem to sell for a lot less used. Why is that? Is the end machined for undesirable hubs or something? From what I have learned so far, they use the same king pin set and boss dimensions on the end of the axle. Of course, I could be wrong about that last part.

David

 

[Youngster]

That's just a personal preference. Most folks seem to like the looks of the round back on the '37-'40 spindle. There is no difference in the two other than the shape of the back. That also means the brakes will interchange.

Ron

 

[LumenAl]

I have noticed the 42-48(?) Ford spindles seem to sell for a lot less used. Why is that? Is the end machined for undesirable hubs or something? From what I have learned so far, they use the same king pin set and boss dimensions on the end of the axle. Of course, I could be wrong about that last part.

David

I'm pretty sure the 42-48 spindles use 6" kingpins and the 37-41 use 5-1/2" kingpins... spindles are the same on both styles so brakes, etc would be the same.

 

[Youngster]

Al's right. Be sure you get the kingpins for the year of the spindles you have. If you are not sure of the uear for your spindles, look in your Speedway catalog. There is a diagram of them telling which one is which.

Ron

 

[jmr122848]

While we are on the subject of spindels, what is the difference between the 35-36 and 27-41?
Mike in ep

 

[Youngster]

Probably the biggest reason the '37 to '48 spindles are used is because the '30 to '48 brakes will bolt directly to them. The earlier spindles require an adapter kit. there is also a problem with the spacing of the holes for the backing plate. In short, don't even consider the '28 to '36 spindles.

Ron

 

[RexRod]

Thanks Ron!

I see the 28 to 36 spindles come up on Ebay, but I was not sure if they where worth a look. I will definitely avoid them.

I did buy a book called "How to Build a Traditional Ford Hot Rod" by Mike Bishop and Vern Tardel. Started reading it last night in the hopes I could start to learn something about these older parts. More specifically, what's more useful and what's not. I know the book got great reviews on Amazon, but so far I am not impressed. :neutral:

The brakes section seemed the most confusing to me. They appear to be sloppy and inconsistent in their writing, but I could be wrong. One good example is the F-1/F-100 front brakes they say are so popular. They claim front brakes from these trucks from 1948 and later are a good choice. But I'm sure "later" needs to be defined, doesn't it? Are they saying "any" F-100 front drum brakes from 1948 to 1972? That can't be right.

After doing a little more homework, I think the cut-off point is 1956, or maybe as late as 1960. But again, because I am just learning this stuff, I am not 100% sure.

(The sound of a robots voice) I will continue to search out and absorb information!

Take care!

David

 

[Duke]

RexRod, Use the force, Let go RexRod, Use the force ( Starwars music in background )

 

[RexRod]

RexRod, Use the force, Let go RexRod, Use the force ( Starwars music in background ) :lol:

:rofl: :rofl:

 

[Youngster]

Let me see if I can clear some of this up for you David.I've made 2 of these swaps. I was told to look for the '53 to '56 setup. be sure to get the backing plates and the hubs.The drums up "65 or so will interchange. The later brakes were self adjusting and can be swapped to the earlier backing plates.

Actually that book by Bishop/Tardel is about the most complete source for this kind of info that's available now. I have one here that I refer to a lot.

What is it you're looking for? A Ford front end to use on a bucket? An old style build?

Ron

 

[RexRod]

Hey Duke,

I just noticed you live in Bend. I spent some time there back in the late 80's. I loved that town. Skied Mt. Bachelor over 100 days one season.

David

 

[RexRod]

Let me see if I can clear some of this up for you David.I've made 2 of these swaps. I was told to look for the '53 to '56 setup. be sure to get the backing plates and the hubs.The drums up "65 or so will interchange. The later brakes were self adjusting and can be swapped to the earlier backing plates.

Actually that book by Bishop/Tardel is about the most complete source for this kind of info that's available now. I have one here that I refer to a lot.

What is it you're looking for? A Ford front end to use on a bucket? An old style build?

Ron

Ron, I am leaning toward a more traditional look. Not a purist car, but borrowing from the era/look. Solid skinny rims (maybe even some artillery wheels), I-Beam front axle, and some split wishbones if I can learn something about them. I am also open to a steel 27' body instead of glass if possible. I know bodies are hard to come by, but hey, that's what an English Wheel is for, right? :rofl: Perfect first panel beating project for the insane and over ambitious!

I don't want to build a "Rat Rod" even though some of those cars are pretty cool. I want mine to be a lot nicer than that. Safer too. The way some of those cars are built is darn scary!

Sorry I blasted the book. I just seem to be finding clearer info on-line. I promise I will keep reading it.

Thanks for the info on the F-1/F-100 brakes. I am adding it to my notebook as I write this.

Take care,

David