Radiator clearances

[TrackTV6]

A friend of mine has one of these on his 32 Ford Vicky with a 4L80E and has no overheating problems with it mounted inside of the frame rail under the body. I would assume at highway speeds it would dissapate plenty of heat, it would be stop and go traffic I would worry about it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Automatic-T...Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d8d06f5d&vxp=mtr

 

[Zandoz]

You read my mind! (Scary, aint it! ) I've seen pics of those heatsink coolers mounted along the frame rail before, and wondered how well they work. That is what I was thinking I could run across below the radiator. The more I think about it, the more I think they would be more efficient mounted parallel to the air flow....like along a frame rail.

 

[TrackTV6]

You read my mind! (Scary, aint it! ) I've seen pics of those heatsink coolers mounted along the frame rail before, and wondered how well they work. That is what I was thinking I could run across below the radiator. The more I think about it, the more I think they would be more efficient mounted parallel to the air flow....like along a frame rail.

He does not drive in a lot of "stop and go" traffic, so it works just fine. If it was me, I'd look for some small finned cooler and add a small electric fan.

 

[TrackTV6]

I'd like to know more about the 60 degree V6 you have. After I aquired mine, I did some research and found there are some years more desirable than others. GM changed the main bearing diameter in 1986 and the later engines are preferred over the pre 1986 engines. By hook and crook, I aquired one of the GM bow tie aluminum blocks and plan on building it down the road. Its about 60 lbs lighter than the cast iron block and has a much better oiling system.

 

[Zandoz]

I'd like to know more about the 60 degree V6 you have. After I aquired mine, I did some research and found there are some years more desirable than others. GM changed the main bearing diameter in 1986 and the later engines are preferred over the pre 1986 engines. By hook and crook, I aquired one of the GM bow tie aluminum blocks and plan on building it down the road. Its about 60 lbs lighter than the cast iron block and has a much better oiling system.

Mine is a 2.8/700R4 combo out of an 89' Camaro, with the MPFI intake system. At this point it is totally stock. My plan is to keep it pretty near stock, with the exception of a set of headers (hopefully "lake style"), a low restriction air intake system, and a bit hotter coil with good wires and plugs. I've already got a set of Fiero cast aluminum valve covers to dress it up. Once I have it all up and running, I may go farther if it turns out to be as good an engine as I was told when I got it. If not, then I'll probably look for a 3.1 or 3.4, since all that I will have done will be transferable. With this whole project, the main focus will be on keeping it simple...and inexpensive.

 

[TrackTV6]

Mine is a 2.8/700R4 combo out of an 89' Camaro, with the MPFI intake system. At this point it is totally stock. My plan is to keep it pretty near stock, with the exception of a set of headers (hopefully "lake style"), a low restriction air intake system, and a bit hotter coil with good wires and plugs. I've already got a set of Fiero cast aluminum valve covers to dress it up. Once I have it all up and running, I may go farther if it turns out to be as good an engine as I was told when I got it. If not, then I'll probably look for a 3.1 or 3.4, since all that I will have done will be transferable. With this whole project, the main focus will be on keeping it simple...and inexpensive.

Here is a picture of the "lakes" pipes I'm building. That is the biggest issue with using a non conventional engine, lots of parts have to be custom built. My current engine has had the heads milled .030 to increase compression, intake and exhaust ports gasket "matched", a 256H Isky cam, crane 1.6 roller tip rockers, MSD Blaster coil, a 4.3 TBI on a bored and gasket "matched" 3.1 intake manifold, an Ishihara-Johnson crank scraper, a Melling high volume oil pump and currently I'm building an oil pan that is low profile with trap doors and a windage tray for better oil slosh control. The oiling system is probably the weakest link in the 60 degree V6 engine. The cam bearings are oiled first, then the mains and rods. I'm shooting for 200 to 225 HP.

 

[Zandoz]

Here is a picture of the "lakes" pipes I'm building. That is the biggest issue with using a non conventional engine, lots of parts have to be custom built. My current engine has had the heads milled .030 to increase compression, intake and exhaust ports gasket "matched", a 256H Isky cam, crane 1.6 roller tip rockers, MSD Blaster coil, a 4.3 TBI on a bored and gasket "matched" 3.1 intake manifold, an Ishihara-Johnson crank scraper, a Melling high volume oil pump and currently I'm building an oil pan that is low profile with trap doors and a windage tray for better oil slosh control. The oiling system is probably the weakest link in the 60 degree V6 engine. The cam bearings are oiled first, then the mains and rods. I'mView attachment 7674 shooting for 200 to 225 HP.

Nice set up! When the time comes, I may have to try to convince you to weld up my headers...LOL

Yeah, I've heard the oiling is the weak point. If it gets to the point that I have to pull the oil pan on this one, I'll probably go with a high volume pump, but that's about as far as I'm going to go in that area. For a lot of years I had a blast with various MG Midgets with 46 to 65 hp and around 1600-1700 lbs...I figure that a 1200-1500 lb car with 135 hp will suit me fine. About the only racing I'm likely to do is vs the neighborhood kids on bicycles to the corner...LOL

 

[T-Test]

You read my mind! (Scary, aint it! ) I've seen pics of those heatsink coolers mounted along the frame rail before, and wondered how well they work. That is what I was thinking I could run across below the radiator. The more I think about it, the more I think they would be more efficient mounted parallel to the air flow....like along a frame rail.

I used one of these for a while. But now I don't use a tranny cooler at all and pull trailers behind my Bucket that weigh close to 1000# loaded.I just looped the cooler line from one port to the other. These cars don't weigh much and if you are not running a real high stall convertor that builds a lot of heat, IMHO you don't need a cooler at all. Ted does the same as I do and he has put a lot more miles on a Bucket than me.

Just a thought?

 

[Zandoz]

That's good to know. I to will be pulling a small trailer occasionally, but only about 600 lbs. Just to be on the safe side, I'll go with one of those heat sink coolers along the frame rail. I found an 18" one for around $40.

 

[TrackTV6]

Here is a 3 row with a trans cooler built in. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Accor...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

 

[Mike J]

At that rate you'll be far ahead of me....LOL I don't expect to be starting frame construction before fall....if then. Right now I'm in the planning and aquisition phase. Originally I planned on doing the frame then building from there, but so many folks advised having all the main components before doing the frame, that I changed my time line.

Yes, it's a 700R4. I figured it will be some form of an external cooler if I go with the 3-row...I just need to figure out the type and location. I want to keep it out of the radiator air flow if at all possible. It looks like there will be room below the radiator, but I do not know if it will get enough air flow only a few inches behind the front crossmember.

Look under "engines and drive lines"/ trans. cooler question. there are some pics of coolers that might help. Mike J