Rear suspension

[The Hustler]

I just bought a T bucket with the buggy rear leaf spring suspension, and as I'm sure you all know it is very rough riding. So, I have the Speedway catalog and I see a coil rear kit for 120 dollars. So if I bought something like this would I just take the brackets to a welder and have them welded to the frame and rear axle? I guess I would need a panhard bar too. Is the location of the brackets critical or just equal distant from the ends of the axle in line with the upper brackets on the frame. Or would I be better off with coil overs? That kit is $534. Or just find a hot rod shop here in Phoenix and say fix it! Any advise would be welcomed. Thanks in advance.

 

[WMG]

I would change over to the coil overs. Did that this winter with a set from RPM one of the sponsors of this site and improved the ride sooooo much, even my wife likes the ride now. Talk to Ron at RPM he can give you all the details about mounting and where they should be mounted, set mine at about a 15 deg angle and worked out great

 

[donsrods]

I don't know why so many people have bad rides out of traverse rear spring setups. That is all I have ever run and I find the ride to be very acceptable. Do they ride like a new Caddy, no, but I have driven mine on lots of 250 mile trips and never had a problem.

I think one area that you guys might look at is how your seat is built. I always have the upholsterer cut out a square section where your butt goes and put tight webbing stapled across in a crisscross pattern like your patio furniture. Then they put a layer of firm foam, a layer of semi firm foam and finally a layer of soft foam. It really makes a big difference.

Don

 

[meangreen]

The problem with a lot of rear springs on T-buckets is they are simply too stiff for the light load. The rear suspension of the average T-bucket is carrying about 40 - 45% of 1600 - 1800 pounds (or somewhere between 640 and 810 pounds), not including passengers. The popular double-arched buggy spring is usually pirated from a Model-A where it was carrying 50% of 2900 - 3100 pounds (or approximately 1450 - 1550 pounds). See the problem? Before you spend a pile of cash and make major changes to the car, try softening the ride with what you have. How many leaves does your rear spring have? If it has more than 4 leaves there is a good chance it's too stiff. Try removing every other leaf to get down to 4 leaves. While you have the spring apart, lubricate between the leaves so thay can slide freely (or put some Posies teflon between the leaves). If it then is too soft, add leaves back into the stack, one at a time, until you have the ride you like.

If the spring is already at 4 leaves, the problem may be with the shock absorbers instead of the spring. When I built my coupe I had a pair of unidentified shocks on the shelf, so I used them on the rear end. It about beat my kidneys to death! I changed the springs (coils) and that helped, but the ride was still "choppy". Turns out those shocks were heavy-duty gas-filled front racing shocks for a mid-70s Camaro. I replaced them with some standard duty shocks for a mid-80s Nissan pickup and the ride is pleasant now.

 

[The Hustler]

The problem with a lot of rear springs on T-buckets is they are simply too stiff for the light load. The rear suspension of the average T-bucket is carrying about 40 - 45% of 1600 - 1800 pounds (or somewhere between 640 and 810 pounds), not including passengers. The popular double-arched buggy spring is usually pirated from a Model-A where it was carrying 50% of 2900 - 3100 pounds (or approximately 1450 - 1550 pounds). See the problem? Before you spend a pile of cash and make major changes to the car, try softening the ride with what you have. How many leaves does your rear spring have? If it has more than 4 leaves there is a good chance it's too stiff. Try removing every other leaf to get down to 4 leaves. While you have the spring apart, lubricate between the leaves so thay can slide freely (or put some Posies teflon between the leaves). If it then is too soft, add leaves back into the stack, one at a time, until you have the ride you like.

If the spring is already at 4 leaves, the problem may be with the shock absorbers instead of the spring. When I built my coupe I had a pair of unidentified shocks on the shelf, so I used them on the rear end. It about beat my kidneys to death! I changed the springs (coils) and that helped, but the ride was still "choppy". Turns out those shocks were heavy-duty gas-filled front racing shocks for a mid-70s Camaro. I replaced them with some standard duty shocks for a mid-80s Nissan pickup and the ride is pleasant now.

 

[The Hustler]

Thanks Meangreen, I will try what yu suggest, as my spring has 5 leafs. I will also check on the shocks. I'll let everyone know the result.

 

[meangreen]

If you can post up a picture of your rear suspension I might be able to recommend which leaf/ leaves to remove...

 

[donsrods]

As I mentioned, I have used nothing but Model A and Model T rear springs with a few leaves removed, and the ride is very acceptable, even on my old butt. I think Jim might be on to something with the shocks. I have always used Pro shocks from Speedway, but I hear Bilsteins really are even better.........but they are a little pricey. Here is the setup I had on the back of my 23, and I drove this thing on some very long trips with no problem.

Don

 

[jmr122848]

Don, how many leifs?

 

[donsrods]

I can't remember as it has been about 5 years since I built it, but looking at the picture there are maybe 7 left, so I removed 3. I can look at my 27 tonight and count them, I have a T spring under it.

Another thing that factors in is air pressure. I run about 22-24 in the back and if I go to 28 it is much harsher. A few pounds makes a big difference.

Don

 

[The Hustler]

I'm down to 18 psi and still very rough. I will check out the shocks and try to remove a leaf or two.