Replacement Windshield Post Fitment

[TriodeLuvr]

I'm exchanging the TP layback posts on my bucket with a pair of newer-made straight posts. I'm having a problem fitting the new posts to the body, and I need suggestions. The problem seems to be that the mounting pad areas of the new posts are about 1/4"-3/8" shorter than the originals. That places the mounting holes about 1/4" higher on the body. Because of this, the new rear-most mounting hole is located just under the top lip of the bucket. In that position, there's no room on the inside to reinstall the washer and nut that hold the screw in place. The shorter length of these posts also means they won't cover the existing mounting holes, so those would have to be filled and the area repainted on both sides. Any ideas on how best to deal with this will be appreciated.

Jack

 

[railroad]

I cannot see the problem with the pictures, but I do understand your description. If the un used hole is completely visible, put a chrome bolt in it and re install a washer and nut. On the lack of room for a nut and washer on the inside of the T, maybe you can put the bolt in from the inside and use a ruby nut on the outside. The problem I would have is the post support contour not matching the body profile. I would grind the windshield support from the inside to match and use a rubber gasket or black silicone to cover any unchromed finish on the edge. This will allow the support to be vertical as I would think it needs to be.
If you are unable to use one of the factory holes, you can drill another attachment hole in an area that will provide the support and glue a bolt in the un used hole. Hope some of that applies and is usable.

 

[TriodeLuvr]

The problem I would have is the post support contour not matching the body profile.

I probably didn't explain this well enough. The post contour matches the body almost perfectly if I raise the post about 1/4"-3/8". However, then the holes don't line up. If I redrill, the rear hole will come through the body practically touching the inside lip at the top of the bucket. I don't think there would even be room for a bolt head from the inside.

Yes, I suppose grinding the posts is one solution. That would mean re-chroming the parts, but maybe it's the only option.

 

[EX JUNK]

Have you given any thought to using an Allen head bolt rather than a hex head bolt. That would give you some wiggle room.

Jim

 

[2old2fast]

After extensive rework to the cowl to get it to match the posts , I ended up having to use a rotary file chucked in a die grinder to get enough room to get that bolt "through" to the inside , then I used a 4" long x 5/8" wide piece of flat stock [5/16" thick ] drilled & tapped for the" nut" , was pretty easy to install like that.
dave

 

[2old2fast]

Also , Wintec shows that they have short posts , you might ask if these are the same as the old "TP" posts , maybe they would fit like your layback posts did w/o any surgery !
dave

 

[TriodeLuvr]

I used a 4" long x 5/8" wide piece of flat stock [5/16" thick ] drilled & tapped for the" nut" , was pretty easy to install like that.

That's a good idea, especially considering how difficult it is to get to the rear screw in mine. I have to say though, I'm really not liking the thought of moving that hole up toward the top of the bucket. There just isn't much strength there, and the backing plate would have to be very narrow to fit between the fiberglass lip and the wood stiffening blocks.
Dave, I came across a few pics of your handmade windshield this afternoon. Are you using the Speedway posts with the hidden lower screws? If so, would it be asking too much to make a couple measurements? I sent an e-mail to Speedway about this, but I don't expect to hear anything for several days (if they even have time to do it). Let me know if you're interested, I have a drawing of what I need. Maybe I can use the Speedway posts instead.

Speaking of your windshield, I was wondering how you had screwed the ends together. The pics I found look like you used a single screw (10-32?) perpendicular to the top. I was thinking about trying to drill a hole at a 45* angle, something like a spline in a miter joint, and sink two 8-32 CS screws in like that. It's much more difficult though, and maybe not necessary. One other thing, the bolt that holds your windshield frame in the post, is that going into the frame from the post, or does it come through from inside the frame? I can't tell from the photo if the part on the post is a nut or screw head.

Jack

 

[2old2fast]

What measurements do you need ? Yes , single screw at the top corners slightly angled to catch as much "meat" as I could & still miss the glass channel . At the bottom corners the same deal except two 1/16" dia. pins were drilled & driven into the corners from the bottom after the lower corners were bolted together [2 per side , like cross pinning a mitre joint in wood]to keep the frame section from rotating. Bolt on the side is drilled & tapped into the aluminum posts, otherwise you couldn't drop the windshield assy. into place. [...and you still don't need a sway bar !!!]
dave

 

[TriodeLuvr]

Dave, here's a drawing that shows the two most relevant dimensions. Your Speedway posts don't have the through holes, but the distance to the centers is still important. The posts I just bought are about 1/2" shorter at both measurements.

I'm not gonna talk about sway bars again until after you've made these measurements.

 

[2old2fast]

Jack, C=2 3/4"....B=5"....E 8 3/4"... Close as I could get... A&D Sorry ,ain't gonna take the interior apart.

dave

 

[TriodeLuvr]

Thanks Dave, I realized after I posted that it wouldn't be possible to measure A. Your Speedways are the same overall height as these Total Performance posts, but they're proportioned differently. The measurement at B is short, and that implies A will be short also. I think the bottom line is that I would have the same problem as with the posts I ordered. I've also realized since my earlier post that the shorter straight posts I bought can't simply be ground to fit the contour of the body. They have to be mounted higher on the body, otherwise, the ledge will be below the level of the cowl, and the windshield frame won't sit down into the post. Now I'm really stumped.

 

[TriodeLuvr]

Update - the posts sold by Wintec are from the same source as the shorter posts I just bought. I'm quickly running out of options.

 

[2old2fast]

Don't know if it'll work or you'd like it but you could fab a "cover" plate out of thin alum. or stainless sheet that would cover the existing holes and go under the post mount partially , then drill through the plate & the body for the new mounting holes , AFA inside , I'd chisel out the wood block & replace it w/ steel bedded into the body , I suppose you could use a new piece of wood?
dave

 

[TriodeLuvr]

Don't know if it'll work or you'd like it but you could fab a "cover" plate out of thin alum. or stainless sheet...

Not a bad idea, but I'm afraid it would look too much like a bandaid. My skills working with metal in that context just aren't so good. There are still one or two possibilities to get me out of this mess, but I don't have much time left. This is just the first step towards a taller windshield and a folding top so I can drive the car this winter. If I can't find posts that fit within another week or so, I'll have to tear out the upholstery and rework the inside. That will still leave screw holes to fill and paint, but I don't know what else I can do. Funny, I thought this would be the easy part.

 

[TriodeLuvr]

Dave, your suggestion has got me thinking about a somewhat different way to go about this. Maybe, just maybe, I could buy the plain posts from Speedway and modify them. I didn't realize until I went back to the Speedway site that they're cast brass. Maybe I could grind off the mounting bosses, cut two lower extensions from 1/4" sheet brass on my mill, then braze those over the bottom flange of the posts. That would at least make it possible to hide the seams and make it look like a one-piece post (assuming my metal shaping skills are up to the task, somewhat doubtful). Then I could drill new holes in each flange in a location that won't hinder installation.

This raises a question I've been wondering about for awhile. When taller windshields are used without support rods, what is it that breaks? This will be a single-pane windshield 20" - 22" tall with a cloth top from Spirit. Would it be safe to eliminate support rods if the windshield posts were made to extend further down on the body, say an additional five or six inches? This is one of the things I like about the Speedway posts, they have that additional mounting point on the backside of the cowl.

Jack