akitagandy
Member
Is it worth the money to use the royal purple break in oil and then run royal purple oil and what wt. oil would you run in a SBC
royal purple
- Thread starter akitagandy
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Screaming Metal
Active Member
Well, you can get all kinda replies on this topic...............but yes........its worth it
Synthetic does not break down like regular motor oils........is 'slicker', with more 'load bearing' capabilities.........
Where 80% of your motor wear is on startup......where the crank is sitting static on your bearing surface in the engine. All your oil is standing in the pan, not being pumped.
When you crank your engine, your pounding and turning the crank thats in those bearings........and the first few revs of your engine is immediate to you your high idle rpm or whatever you rev your motor to.......without any oil......just whats siting there in the bearing shell and the cross drill oiling holes in the crank when you last shut the engine off...........theres alot of rotation there before the oil makes it to that bearing...............remember......you got main and rod bearings in the motor........
The standing power of the synthetic will stand there longer......meaning....theres a really thin film that adhears to the bearing surface that eliminated the 'dry' start...........
On our Race engines....we have a accumulator or tank that we store pressurized oil in so when we go to start a 5000+ horse motor.....we open that tank to pressurize the bearings before we go.......
When you engine is running ........theres a few thousands of clearance between your bearings and the crank.......and you oil pressure is pushing the oil into that clearance......so literally......your crank is floating on a thin film of oil..........
In tests we've done....... a small block Chevy can get by on as little as 8 lbs of oil pressure...........pressure/ bearing surface area/ etc, etc.....anyway......when you build a street engine.....your crank tolerances are 'tighter'.....you have more oil pressure at the bearings........so as the engine wears.....your oil pressure will go down as the clearance opens up.
On Race engines or hot street engines.....these clearances are 'looser', you get more pressure blowby......more oil going to the bearing for cooling and also, less drag, and less pressure having to be held at the pump, therefor less parasitic loss..............
Plain and simple..........if you can afford it....... go with the Royal Purple..........its more expensive..........its alot more protection.........and you can leave it in your engine longer...........doesn't break down like regular oils.....there for you don't have to change it as much................which if you look at it like this..........that in itself offsets the higher initial cost of the product.................
In our Race motors.........with 5000+ Horses........we'd smoke the mains on startup.....................
Synthetic does not break down like regular motor oils........is 'slicker', with more 'load bearing' capabilities.........
Where 80% of your motor wear is on startup......where the crank is sitting static on your bearing surface in the engine. All your oil is standing in the pan, not being pumped.
When you crank your engine, your pounding and turning the crank thats in those bearings........and the first few revs of your engine is immediate to you your high idle rpm or whatever you rev your motor to.......without any oil......just whats siting there in the bearing shell and the cross drill oiling holes in the crank when you last shut the engine off...........theres alot of rotation there before the oil makes it to that bearing...............remember......you got main and rod bearings in the motor........
The standing power of the synthetic will stand there longer......meaning....theres a really thin film that adhears to the bearing surface that eliminated the 'dry' start...........
On our Race engines....we have a accumulator or tank that we store pressurized oil in so when we go to start a 5000+ horse motor.....we open that tank to pressurize the bearings before we go.......
When you engine is running ........theres a few thousands of clearance between your bearings and the crank.......and you oil pressure is pushing the oil into that clearance......so literally......your crank is floating on a thin film of oil..........
In tests we've done....... a small block Chevy can get by on as little as 8 lbs of oil pressure...........pressure/ bearing surface area/ etc, etc.....anyway......when you build a street engine.....your crank tolerances are 'tighter'.....you have more oil pressure at the bearings........so as the engine wears.....your oil pressure will go down as the clearance opens up.
On Race engines or hot street engines.....these clearances are 'looser', you get more pressure blowby......more oil going to the bearing for cooling and also, less drag, and less pressure having to be held at the pump, therefor less parasitic loss..............
Plain and simple..........if you can afford it....... go with the Royal Purple..........its more expensive..........its alot more protection.........and you can leave it in your engine longer...........doesn't break down like regular oils.....there for you don't have to change it as much................which if you look at it like this..........that in itself offsets the higher initial cost of the product.................
In our Race motors.........with 5000+ Horses........we'd smoke the mains on startup.....................
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Oh.....I forgot.......(I'm the the shop today adapting the 392 to a turbo 400).......on a stock 350......10w30
A good hi-perf motor.......15w40
a hi perf motor thats gonna see alot of cruisin'.........20w50....
alot of folks will argue that.........but if you got really tight clearances in your motor.....ie......NEW......10w30.......as the motor wears and your oil pressure falls.........go with the others......that hotter the temps.....go heavier..............
A good hi-perf motor.......15w40
a hi perf motor thats gonna see alot of cruisin'.........20w50....
alot of folks will argue that.........but if you got really tight clearances in your motor.....ie......NEW......10w30.......as the motor wears and your oil pressure falls.........go with the others......that hotter the temps.....go heavier..............
Telman2
Active Member
I live in an area that has extreme temperature changes, my bucket will sit from around the end of October - beginning of November until mid April. I've been using Royal Purple since my last engine upgrade (327 to a 350) and I think it's the best investment I've made yet. In our short driving season I don't worry about the cost of an oil change or my gas mileage.
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