S-10 rear options?

[smokeyco75]

Hey folks. I didn't see this information posted anywhere here so I thought I would ask. Is there a particular year or option to look for when getting an S-10 rear end from a salvage yard? A particular year or option package with a decent gear ratio for example. Something over 3.00:1 would be preferred for my build. I dont want disk brakes though. Thanks for any insight you folks might have.

 

[smokeyco75]

Oops. looks like I should have put this in the engines and driveline section. I apologize. If moderaters can move it please do.

 

[RPM]

Most of the s-10 rears have 3:73 gears in them.

 

[benT]

if you are planning on pulling it yourself, do a quick search online to find the rearend codes. On an S10 or blazer, there is a sticker in the glove box with all the trucks info. This tag will have the code for the rear end gear ratio and if it is a limited slip rear. Look for the 92 and newer rear ends as they have better wheel cylinders and most are 7.625" over the earlier 7.5". These rears have a couple carriers that limit just swapping the gears. Wait to find the rear end with the gears you want. Common ratios are 3.73, 3.42, and 3.07. I like the 3.42 and many can be found with the limited slip option. I pulled one from the local pic a part last year for $100 with good brakes and the 3.42 limited slip. '23 style buckets typically use the std S10 rear which is about 54.5" wide, the S10 4wd blazers have 58" wide rears which work better for '26-27 style buckets.

Don't fret if you find the right gear ratio rear and it has the rear yoke with the balancer on it (typ on ext cabs). It can be swapped out with a std yoke. I brought a battery powered impact with me to the yard and found a good time and driveshaft together and pulled them both- a matched set makes it easier.

I've got more info at home on these rears, but I'm in DC right now at a Macy's while my girl is shopping...

 

[Hotrod46]

Unless you're wanting drum brakes for a style issue, I would go with disc brakes.

I have a 1999 S-10 rear under mine and used drums because I wanted an early look( also used drums up front). Here is what I learned and some issues that I had.

I had read that GM had rear brake lockup problems on the S-10 and basically down-graded them to control it. I tend to believe that story.

First, they're pretty small at 7.5". Seems undersized for a truck.

Second, I don't think mine had ever been changed and had metallic brake shoes. They might be more fade resistant than organic linings, but they need more force to work well.

Third, and probably the worst issue is the 3/4" bore wheel cylinders. This is considerably smaller than most master cylinders and actually reduce the force transferred to the shoes.

Looks to me like GM intended for all the braking to be done with the front discs and only wanted the rears to work when the truck was loaded and pedal pressure (and line pressure)was very high.

I had front brake locking problems when I first got my car on the road. The fronts would lock and the rears did not appear to be doing anything at all. I modified some larger wheel cylinders and went to organic shoes, but while the braking got better, it still wasn't good. I finally went to a twin master cylinder/ balance bar setup to eliminate it.

The new setup allowed me to run a small bore master cylinder on the rear brakes and get the line pressure up. The car stopped much, much easier and shorter with all 4 corners working.

If you still want to go with drums, I would go with a late 90's rearend. The earlier brakes had wheel cylinders that pretty much on fit only those brakes. The later rearends have unique cylinders too, but will interchange with Astro van cylinders. The van pieces are 7/8" bore. I used modified 15/16" 1982 Caprice wheel cylinders, but had to make new pistons and turn down the body to fit.

The shoes I used were the cheapest S-10 replacements from Orielly's. They did not appear to have any metallic content. I'm pretty sure they were straight organic.

You could also look at swapping larger brakes from another GM rearend.

Sorry for the long post, but I hope some of this helps.

Mike

 

[WMG]

I have a rear from a 1980 S10 blazer. Works good enough but the brakes are a bear to set up. If I had a choice I would look at the gear ratio because right now at 60mph my engine runs at 2,200rpm. Gas mileage sucks as it is because there is a tendency to put your foot into with a bucket then add the higher rpm and here comes 10mpg

 

[smokeyco75]

Wow thanks for all the great detailed replies! The local salvage yard has one from a 64, 95, or 97, my choice for 150 bucks. I dismissed the disc brake option just on the cost factor. I'm trying to keep this project under $9500.00 to get it driving and then make upgrades afterward to keep me tinkering with it. Maybe I will check on a disc brake rear and see what the price difference is. thanks folks!

 

[meangreen]

Did you mean '84 instead of '64? Anyway, if you haven't bought the rear end yet, take a look at some of the Toyota pickup rears. I don't know about the width, but hey have a 5 on 4 1/2 bolt circle (same as Ford), they're available in several ratios, many are limited slip, and they have really beefy axles. The brakes may be better than the S-10s, but they are all drums as far as I know.

 

[smokeyco75]

Lol I meant 94. I priced a toyota rear as well but the S10 rear is cheaper. I also have an Auburn carrier left over from another project that fits the S10 rear but I believe only up to 94.

 

[meangreen]

If the rear brakes are a concern, there may be cylinders with larger bore that will bolt in place of the originals. Anybody know?

 

[smokeyco75]

I can always build a disc brake conversion for it too. I'm pretty handy working with steel. I plan on building most of this ride myself anyway.

 

[meangreen]

I know you are! Have you decided what it will be yet? Roadster or C-Cab?

 

[smokeyco75]

Im leaning toward the T but I would still like to make a copy of the C-cab drawings. I may want to build it next lol.