You mean the bolt on variety? strong enough, yes. but butt ugly Try these. without the special crimpers you'll need to use a hammer to "crimp" them, but still a much nicer end result IMHO. use 2 per loop btw. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/nicopress.php
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Cable Fittings »Eye (Eyelet) Fittings
NOTES: 1. 302 eye holds 85 lbs. max. 2. 315x260 holds 350 lbs. max. 3. 330P eye holds 1600 lbs. max. 4. 340P500 holds 3500 lbs. max. 5. .580 dimensions will be furnished unless
otherwise specified. 6. For bent eye, the angle must be specified,
with a standard tolerance of ±5° 7. 310 eyelets hold 300 lbs. max. for 1/16˝ cable. Dimensions shown are after swaging. Before swaging, the legs on the shank of the fittings are in a straight-up position. These eye fittings require special tooling and considerable tonnage to crimp. (Hand tools are not available. We recommend that you have SAVA assemble them for you to obtain proper breaking strength.) Above eyes generate full breaking strength on 7x7 and 7x19 cables unless otherwise noted. Stainless steel material for eyes is AISI Type 302/304.
Measure from front of accessory mounting hole on front of head down to where you want to attach it on the frame, call them and have a cable made up. Use 3/8's cable and up....
Well, I made my own torque stay out of a turnbuckle. I adjusted the turnbuckle until tight. I did not torque it down enough to make the rubber mount compress. I will see how this works out later.
I think I saw a Pete & Jakes master cylinder that had the brake lines coming out of the drivers side as the cylinder was mounted with the push rod going from front to rear. Would that help you?
I think I saw a Pete & Jakes master cylinder that had the brake lines coming out of the drivers side as the cylinder was mounted with the push rod going from front to rear. Would that help you?
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