Starter ?

[harleydude]

I have a chevy 350 starter that just moans when the key is turned. sometimes it will engage, and sometimes it wont. Is just the solinoid bad, need greased, or is the whole starter on its way out. Or is the battery not cranking enough crank power to zip that solinoid out fast enough? Just you thought. Even though I tink I know the answer? I will eventially replace it with a chrome starter, Any recommendations

 

[EX JUNK]

Try jumping it with another car. At least that way you can eliminate it being a bad battery or not. Always take the easiest step first in eliminating possible problems or causes.

Jim

 

[T4TWO]

x's 2 on what Jim posted above. ^^^

But, tearing it down and rebuilding it is not that much of a chore too.

 

[Ted Brown]

You can also try a clip on starter button, at the starter, to be sure that you are getting plenty of power to the solinoid... as many times the key starter does not work well, and solinoids are an easy fix, take it apart and turn the big copper washer over, clean the contact posts, back together and done..

 

[TheAntiBoyd]

Always check the electrical system to see if its up to par with your system. My dad is running a rebuilt generator on his 55 chevys 327; but all he has is the pertronix ignition and the lighting system. No radio, no elect pumps...so its up to snuff. Make sure your battery is good, your alternator is big enough and all your connections and cables/wires are good. Check your groundstrap/wires and make sure its a good clean ground.

Now, Im not a fan of chrome starters, alternators, rear end covers or oilpans. Seems to me they make them as ludicrously cheap as possible and then put really chintzy chrome plating on them and bill you up the wazoo. Theyre almost ALWAYS junk, and love to soak in heat. If its not a new starter, or recently replaced; screw it, get a new one and eliminate having to replace it when you really really dont want to. I also prefer the mini starters, one less thing to drop on my coconut. PS avoid the 1 wire alternators like the plague. Ive never had good luck with them, I just get a new 3 wire alternator from Napa.
Back to your starter, is the bendix engaging? if its not coming out with authority Id say your starter is pretty whooped and needs replacing. That being said, a new high zoot starter wont do a damn thing when its powered by an electrical system that has a million splices, electrical tape, wire nuts and a whooped battery. On an enclosed engine bay, I ALWAYS fab up a starter heat shield and high quality wires and connectors to the starter solenoid. I had a friend with a 73 nova he kept replacing the starter on. After he drove it for awhile and shut it off, it was VERY hard to start. turns out the heat from the headers and low speed driving was soaking the solenoid with heat and it didn't have the oomph to kick over an 11:1 smallblock. so I fabbed up a heatshield after I looked at one in Jegs and voila no more probs. you can get an endcut of stainless from a local metal fab/ sheetmetal shop for free or close to it. Use loctite, but not the one you CANT get loose, cuz it might vibrate and drive you NUTS trying to find the noise

 

[dovehunter79]

Try jumping it with another car. At least that way you can eliminate it being a bad battery or not. Always take the easiest step first in eliminating possible problems or causes.

Jim

Another way to check the battery is if you have a second person, put a volt meter on the battery and make sure that you have 12.1+ Volts with the key turned off. When you try to key and your reading anything below 10 Volts, the battery's prolly bad. I have had starters turn over around 10Volts but they lug like crazy.

 

[putz]

I work on new cars and grounds are our biggest problem try an Ohmmeter between the negative battery terminal and the block or starter. Resistance should be almost zero. Grounds can make you pull your hair out chasing them.
It is amazing how many bad connections between terminal and battery post This reading should be zero.But Jumpstarting is a good first step.

 

[EX JUNK]

To insure a good ground, place a "star" type lock washer between the connector and a well cleaned bare metal surface. The edges of the star washer will bite into the clean metal surface and make a positive metal ground. I do this to ALL grounds not just the negative battery cable.

Jim

 

[rooster57]

The biggest problem with bolting any ground to the frame, or anysurface is using dissimular materials, Steel , copper , brass. Steel nut on brass or copper can be a problem if corrosion isnt kept out. I have used "nolox" on my electrical connections since to mid 70s and NEVER have a corosion problem. This is the compound that was used to connect copper wiring to alum wiring. It also acts as a heat sink as well.

 

[Ted Brown]

The biggest problem with bolting any ground to the frame, or anysurface is using dissimular materials, Steel , copper , brass. Steel nut on brass or copper can be a problem if corrosion isnt kept out. I have used "nolox" on my electrical connections since to mid 70s and NEVER have a corosion problem. This is the compound that was used to connect copper wiring to alum wiring. It also acts as a heat sink as well.

"nolox" where is a good place to buy that? Electric supply house?

 

[LumenAl]

"nolox" where is a good place to buy that? Electric supply house?

Electric supply house or any home center such as Lowe's or Home Depot... Actually, it's Noalox - Anti-Oxidant Joint Compound

 

[Ted Brown]

Electric supply house or any home center such as Lowe's or Home Depot... Actually, it's Noalox - Anti-Oxidant Joint Compound

Thanks Al, I will get some tomorrow...

 

[Wild Mango]

Electrical jointing compound is Lithium base grease (Shell Alvania) with Titanium Oxide. The Titania gives it the white color. Good stuff.
In a pinch just the grease is way better than a dry joint.

CRC also do a product called "Soft Seal" in a spray can. Just as good but messy because it sprays every which way and the sh1t is sticky.