Steering options

[raidmagic]

OK I've grown tired of this set up. It's just not safe feeling to me. The shaft goes to the steering box with two set screws to keep it from pulling off then the middle of the column is supported by a bearing that has a set screw on it and a bracket that goes to the floor. I've got the bottom secure so that you can't pull it apart but the bearing in the middle and the bracket keep coming loose making the column very floppy. Is there another way to secure this? Am I better switching to another set up all together? If so what's out there and how much do I have to reengineer this for it to work?

 

[Youngster]

post some pictures and i'm sure you will find an answer to your question.

Ron

 

[raidmagic]

Sorry those pics were bad here are some better ones I hope.

 

[rooster57]

Your right that isnt safe BUT you do have a good corvair box this shouldnt be a huge project to put on top of the frame. A column from speedway and a drop and your 90% there. Its good that safety is your concern this could be a very bad situation.

 

[raidmagic]

So the way it attaches to the box is ok? I have it pretty good and can't pull it off but it is a concern. This will make me have to do a firewall steering set up?

 

["The Bat" out of hell]

By drop,he's talking about a brace coming off the dash to the column,but it's also good to run a brace from dash to firewall as well so they tie together and add up to strong mount.

 

[Ted Brown]

After taking that box out from under the car, place it on top the frame just in front of the firewall, install your steering shaft, I take it that you have a splined end on that shaft? With the shaft in place, now you can also hook up your steering wheel.. Sit in your seat and hold the wheel where it wil be the most comfy. Have someone cut a piece of card board to that angle from your inside firewall, also take a mesurement as to the length of the column length needed, and the short angled bracket needed (under the box) to mount the box to the frame.. have a 3/8 plate already mounted to the box, with the far rear hole (towards the engine) slotted, so you can already have that bolt part way into the steering box, makes it a lot easier to install and take off, just loosen that bolt and slide it off... I used a stock T steel column with the Brass top pieces, and it has a 3/4" hole already, if you need it larger you can ream it out a bit... NO extra braces are needed at all, if your firewall is strong enough, with plywood inside and 1/4" alum on the engine side, more that good enough. I have never use any braces for any of the T's I have built over the years, with no problems... Need pics? e-me **tedabrown@juno.com** no stars or check my MySpace pics.. Good move... and good luck, this should not take very long at all, and you will be much happier...

 

[Youngster]

This is one of those time where you are only seeing the tip of the iceberg. to do a proper repair here, in my shop, you would be looking at;

1.) moving the box to the top of the frame rail in front of the firewall.

2.) building a new column using a 3/4" shaft out of a GM column with a coupler from Speedway (pt# 910-32284) welded to the shaft.

3.) a column drop from the dash and a firewall brace, as previously described. Also make a cool spot to mount indictor lights and switches.

4.) a new brake pedal, the old one will be interfering with the new column.

5.) replacing the master cylinder with a dual resivour '67 Mustang drum/drum non-power unit (NAPA pt# 101485).

6.) and lastly a toeboard. You knew that was comming didn't ya Al.

Ron

PS...did you get the brake problem worked out yet?

 

[Ted Brown]

I took mine apart today and I used the corvair 5/8" shaft, I have a 1/2" deep socket welded to the box end, the shaft out of the box is machined to mate the 1/2" socket, and I just use a cotter pin to hold it in, used to be a 1/2" wobbly socket, but I alined it all so that the straight deep socket would work, use it the other way for many years of HARD drivin, so it had some slop there.. The length of the column to the bottom of my steering wheel is 23 1/2" and up from the floor to the center of the wheel is 21 1/2"... like I said before and Mr. Ford thought so to, no brace to the column required, you are not sitting on it.. hehe Good luck with your project..

 

[raidmagic]

OK great info but I'm a little lost. My box isn't splined it just has those ears on it. Is there a spine or socket I can buy and weld onto it? Also I'm concerned about where the box will mount outside and fit, it seems awful tight out there. Is it offset to the driver?
Ted I will be e-mailing you shortly for pics of your set up. Sorry for so many questions I just want to do it right and do it once. Thanks

I might add there is no plywood in my bucket and it's kinda flimsy. I'll add some but what's the best way to fasten it? Just glass it in?

 

[Youngster]

i would ask Ron (RPM) if he has a replacement shaft with the splines

Ron

 

[raidmagic]

i would ask Ron (RPM) if he has a replacement shaft with the splines

Ron

I sent him an e-mail about this a few weeks ago and never got a response.

 

[Brucer]

think i would go down youngsters list.. to make that safe your going to need to move that steering box/column away from your pedals..


is the shaft coming out of your steering box splined? hard to tell... if it is thats easy to get couplers to fit. if it isnt about the only options you would have is to get a weld on coupler and have it tig welded on the end of the shaft coiming out of the steering box, the couplers ive seen like that have a set screw on the side and you put a dimple on the shaft to lock it, then weld a couple of small spot welds on the I.D. of the coupler and shaft..

 

[Youngster]

check with RPM again, he was on vacation for a while. i'm sure he would have answered you. hate when someone cuts that shaft too short or when they try to beat the piman arm off with a hammer and strip the threads out of the side cover.

Ron

 

[Ted Brown]

If you do not have a puller to remove the pitmam arm, lay it on a solid steel table? anything solid, and hit the side of the big end with a BFHammer, the pitman arm will fall off with a wack or two. I keep the nut on the threads, backed off a few turns, to protect the threads, just in case you miss.. hehe PS, no U joints will be needed if you mount the box LAST...

 

[RPM]

First off let me say I am sorry I missed your email. Second DO NOT HIT THAT SHAFT WITH A HAMMER. When you hit the shaft with a hammer all the impact is transfered to the that 5/16 adjusting bolt on the other end of the pitman shaft. I have seen I don't know how many covers stripped out because someone hit the pitman shaft. Do it right and use a puller.

If you have a straight shaft Corvair box it can be used with a straight coupler and a roll pin. Total Performance did it like that for many years.
I rebuilt quite a few boxes for Total before they went out of business. Total sold the coupler. It had a 3/4 hole it one end that welded to the steering shaft and a 5/8 hole that slipped onto the corvair box and it used a 3/16 roll pin. You have to drill the hole thru the Corvair shaft.

Email me your phone # and I'll call you, if you like.

 

[Youngster]

i have 6 covers that will bare testement as to the damage a hammer will do to those threads. just can't bring myself to scrapin them. gotta be a way to fix the damage. good covers only are as rare as hens teeth. if you damage yours, plan on buying another box.

Ron what is the o.d. of that total coupler? is it still available somewhere? inquiring minds want to know!

Ron

 

[RPM]

i have 6 covers that will bare testement as to the damage a hammer will do to those threads. just can't bring myself to scrapin them. gotta be a way to fix the damage. good covers only are as rare as hens teeth. if you damage yours, plan on buying another box.

Ron what is the o.d. of that total coupler? is it still available somewhere? inquiring minds want to know!

Ron

I had so many damaged covers, I had to buy a Heli-Coil kit to fix them. That works fine.

I am not sure what the OD of that coupler was. 1" tube should work OK drilled 3/4 on one end and drilled 5/8 on the other. With a 3/16" roll pin hole in it. Simple enough if you had a lathe.

 

[raidmagic]

OK I took the box out today and cleaned it up for a real good look at it. It does have a spined shaft and ears. Also RPM I pmed you my number. Thanks