still no braking

[Don'tCallMeJimmie]

Tman

Please don't take this as me looking for an argument, but you didn't really answer the whole question. Let's try this again? This part does matter.

Bench-bled, was the pedal attached? No, still could be the pedal not moving the piston in the master cylinder enough to effectively apply the brakes, simply not moving enough brake fluid to do the job.

 

[Tman 1957]

Tman

Please don't take this as me looking for an argument, but you didn't really answer the whole question. Let's try this again? This part does matter.

Bench-bled, was the pedal attached? No, still could be the pedal not moving the piston in the master cylinder enough to effectively apply the brakes, simply not moving enough brake fluid to do the job.

No it was bench bleed with a dowel not the pedal, but it does seem that the pedal is moving MC cylinder enough.

 

[2old2fast]

So, did you start disconnecting lines to find your restriction??

dave

 

[Francis Blake]

Haven't seen anything on this for a while. Did you get it fixed?

 

[Tman 1957]

no still not fixed this thing sucks very frustrating

 

[Ma_n_Pa T]

no still not fixed this thing sucks very frustrating

Tman, I sent you a pm with my email in it, if you could send a pic or two of your master/pedal setup maybe we could see what the problem is but with out a pics none of us can suggest much, dont let it get you down, there is a lot of good info here and everyone wants to see you get it fixed! Help us help you!
Jerry

 

[putz]

Did somebody by chance put a proportioning valve in here?

 

[Screaming Metal]

OK, fill up your MC, then get your bleeding buddy to pump up the brakes 3 times and hold it down, -with or without good pedal. Crack your main line to your front brakes, just a little, AT THE MC and shut it. I always have the fella tell me when the pedal is on the floor, that way I can seal things before he says OK. Do it till theres a solid flow of fluid. Tell him to pump them up agian, bleed that same line, about 3 times, (Top off fluid) then move down the line to the split that goes to each wheel, bleed there, 3 times, or until solid stream, then off to each wheel cylinder.
Then start at the rear line to the MC, then on back. When you get to the proportionor valve, things might get better. Once you get the valve to center itself, and bleed on back.
I have a vacuum setup and I have a air setup to bleed brakes, but you know what? I always bleed them the old fashioned way, get almost all the air out, then I can use then. OR use them to get almost all the air out, then do them the old fashioned way.

If you try to get all this bled agian, and if theres anymore trouble, need to let us know what the bore dia. is for the MC, your line sizes, and then your wheel cylinder size. Do you have a Power Brake MC? It being a closed system, you should have a good solid pedal after bleeding. If you have a PBMC, it'll still be really firm, until you go to stop, then it'll take a lot of pedal pressure to stop. Then you can get a longer brake pedal or redo your leverage point, go with diff. size MC piston....it being a sealed system, if you get the air out, there should be a firm pedal. And yes, there are valves in your brake system.
Running a single chamber MC? Or a dual chamber? You have to have a proportioner valve to adjust things. I run a centering valve too, that way if the brake line accidently blows, it won't drain your MC, you'll either have your front brakes or your rear.
You should have your MC rod adjusted so you start getting pedal about 1" down from the top. After bleeding, you adjust it where you want it to be off the floor.

Don't get frustrated, take a break, then come back to it.

 

[Screaming Metal]

WELL, I reread everything and your last post. Then reread this post. After drilling out any valve, it should be cleaned thoroughly, before installation. Corrosion and rust will not set up from parking a couple of months in some tall weeds. IF it did, the top was off the MC allowing the brake fluid to soak up all the atmospheric moisture avail. till it couldn't hold any more. Don't use any opened brake fluid bottles over 6 months is the rule here. If the cap was not on tight, don't even use it! Its contaminated. I put my opened small bottles in freezer bags, then squeeze out the air, seal the ziplock top.
You need to take all the lines loose, DON'T just blow them out, compressed air has water in it unless you have a really good dryer system. Hook up a hand pump and run fresh fluid thru those lines to get all the corrosion and rust out/crap out.
Hook everything back up, then, start your bleeding from the MC on to the front wheels, then from the MC to the rear wheels.

I had a car in the shop a few months back, and the guy had put all the right parts into it, except he accidentally used a Power-brake pedal assembly. I told him to look at his brake pedal really carefully and tell me what he saw. The pad had 'Power-Brakes' on it....dead giveaway. Expensive mistake.
You can't screw around with your brakes, period, those things can cost you your life! Go only with new parts, and good quality fluids. And only use GOOD lines and fittings!
Was doing racecar brakes not long ago and came across some crappy chinese made sh_t....look at your lines, if it looks substandard, it is substandard.
3 things I don't scrimp on in the braked dept.:
1. Parachutes,
2. Pads and shoes,
3. All the hydraulics, especially the lines....

Theres about 4 to 6000 peak PSI inside your brake lines when you jump down on them hard. I even install a pressure gauge in mine to see the pressure.... a cheap line will split, I've even seen the cheap fittings fail.
When your putting your lines together, if something doesn't screw together correctly, the threads don't match up....STOP! Don't force things together!
Theres a difference between low pressure lines and brake lines, they are not the same animals.